Water pump replacement

[OllieDemon45]

So I was going to just replace the hoses on the 340 because it has been sitting for years. I drained the coolant and removed the hoses to find this. So I ordered a new pump and gasket tonight. question is, how does the fan come off? Are there bolts on the front of it? Tomorrow night I’ll start the disassembly.

 

[66fyssh]

Yes, 4 bolts facing the radiator. It's a tight fit, but you can get them out without pulling the radiator. If you have a shroud, it may have to come off to get the fan out.

Tip: make a "holder" for the water pump bolts that will hold them in the exact position you remove them. That way you'll install them back into the correct hole.

 

[OllieDemon45]

Yes, 4 bolts facing the radiator. It's a tight fit, but you can get them out without pulling the radiator. If you have a shroud, it may have to come off to get the fan out.

Tip: make a "holder" for the water pump bolts that will hold them in the exact position you remove them. That way you'll install them back into the correct hole.

Thank you thank you.. I will do that for the bolt holder. I'm thinking i should get new bolts for the water pump also. I'm sure they are going to be pretty corrodid.

 

[66fyssh]

That's a great idea. Which reminds me. Take your time getting the bolts out. Use PB Blaster. I would start using it a couple of days early and apply it regularly. Those darn things going into the water jacket can be a PITA.

 

[Dubob]

I’d be looking very carefully at the passages thru the timing cover to the block once the old water pump is off.

 

[Johnny Dart]

Might as well take the radiator out to give you more room.
The water/coolant is drained, no reason not to.

 

[sccachallenger]

Yes, 4 bolts facing the radiator. It's a tight fit, but you can get them out without pulling the radiator. If you have a shroud, it may have to come off to get the fan out.

Tip: make a "holder" for the water pump bolts that will hold them in the exact position you remove them. That way you'll install them back into the correct hole.

Follow this advice! If too long a bolt is threaded into some of the holes it can crack a cylinder wall if over tightened. I think its most critical on the drivers side.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Don't forget thread sealer on the bolts that go into the water jacket.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Just my opinion. I don't mean to go against anyone here, but I wouldn't work in there with the radiator in the way, as easy as it is to remove and as much room as it gives you when you do. You already have it drained.

 

[448Scamp]

As post 5 said, make sure you get your eyes on that timing cover. It’s probably in the same or worse shape than your water pump. It would be a bummer if you didn’t check the TC and it’s was bad.

 

[OllieDemon45]

That's a great idea. Which reminds me. Take your time getting the bolts out. Use PB Blaster. I would start using it a couple of days early and apply it regularly. Those darn things going into the water jacket can be a PITA.

This is my biggest concern too, i pray that one doesn't break when i'm trying too remove it.

 

[OllieDemon45]

All great advice.

 

[YY1]

I use a box (maybe even the box the new pump comes in) to hold the bolts in their relative positions.

You can make a template using the gasket.

Also convenient to paint them.

Be careful replacing bolts, as they are likely odd sizes not available from big box or even auto parts stores.

Mopar is famous for using ...and 3/4" bolts such as 3 3/4, 5 3/4 and even ...and 5/8 bolts which you can't buy anywhere.

Also I use pins made from rod slightly smaller than the bolt sizes to locate the gasket between the timing cover and the new pump.

Slide it on, put in 2 bolts, then slide out the locating pins.

I've had a gasket or 2 get pushed down below the bolts and leak.

I made my last set of pins from discarded closet maid shelving. perfect size.

 

[Johnny Dart]

Just my opinion. I don't mean to go against anyone here, but I wouldn't work in there with the radiator in the way, as easy as it is to remove and as much room as it gives you when you do. You already have it drained.

Post 6
I must be on your ignore list.

 

[jazak5]

As post 5 said, make sure you get your eyes on that timing cover. It’s probably in the same or worse shape than your water pump. It would be a bummer if you didn’t check the TC and it’s was bad.

jazak5Well-Known Member
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That one rotted away for a reason, chances are the rest of the them aren't in great shape either. If you can pull the engine out to do them all, then great but that one looks accessable to replace without pulling the engine out though. In the mean time you can put a rubber expansion in it to get you by for a while, these are available at any good parts store.
While that plug is out you'll want to flush all the rust and gunk out of the block.
A rubber plug wouldn't really be considered a permanent fix but would probably last the life of the car. You can use either steel or brass at this point because chances are the coolant wont be left to rot in that engine for another 40 years. These cars get pampered now,they don't get treated like disposable daily drivers like they once were.
Click to expand...
ok thanks//had plans to pull engine in the fall/just not before trying to enjoy it for the summer

 

[jazak5]

order a kool flow water pump /thermo clutch and be done with it/ some one here will have a timing cover for ya

 

[OllieDemon45]

Everything came apart good, phew!
How do these ports look? Looks like some sealer from the bolts in in there but it looks ok I think. No chunk or crap in there that I can tell.

 

[OllieDemon45]

I like this idea so I don’t forget what order they go back in!

 

[CRUZE 418]

If you replace your antifreeze, use the old green stuff. Reverse osmosis water 1st choice, distilled 2nd choice.