We’re finally doing it!!

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ProjectBazza said:
Not a carpenter or framer, but are you talking about these?

View attachment 1716487941

If so, I've had two houses with 'em (which includes the current place), and two without. Both places that had/have 'em have creaking and sagging floors, while the floors were dead silent and level in the homes that had "standard" 2x floor joists and/or "floor trusses" (if that's the right term).

I really don’t mean to add to Duke's workload, but if this were my place, I'd cross-bridge the hell out of 'em (because they DO twist under a load), and hope like hell they don't sag and/or crack with age.
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They’ll do that if they’re undersized for the span.

These are 14 7/8 vs the 11 7/8 the plans called for and they’re supported every 15 feet by load bearing walls. That’s roughly 1/3rd of their rated max span.

I also modified the plans for the walls above to be directly on top of the load bearing walls underneath the joists.

That said, yes they’ll get braced laterally as well
 
dukeboy440 said:
They’ll do that if they’re undersized for the span.

These are 14 7/8 vs the 11 7/8 the plans called for and they’re supported every 15 feet by load bearing walls. That’s roughly 1/3rd of their rated max span.

I also modified the plans for the walls above to be directly on top of the load bearing walls underneath the joists.

That said, yes they’ll get braced laterally as well
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God, I sure hope you have better luck with them than we have! In our current place we have the 12” beams spaced 16” OC, and in a 12’ wide span (mechanical room) I’ve had to cut “inserts” and glue and nail them to the beams directly underneath both the fridge and the washer & drier, as they had twisted, cracked, and popped. Maybe they got wet before we bought the place, I don’t know, but I’m certainly not a fan of them.

Sincerely hope they perform better for you than they have for us!

IMG_3070.jpeg
 
ProjectBazza said:
God, I sure hope you have better luck with them than we have! In our current place we have the 12” beams spaced 16” OC, and in a 12’ wide span (mechanical room) I’ve had to cut “inserts” and glue and nail them to the beams directly underneath both the fridge and the washer & drier, as they had twisted, cracked, and popped. Maybe they got wet before we bought the place, I don’t know, but I’m certainly not a fan of them.

Sincerely hope they perform better for you than they have for us!

View attachment 1716488037
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They should have X bracing under appliance areas. And yeah, it’s possible they got wet.

Guess we shall see.
 
Well we’re gonna find out how bad the snow just screwed me. Spent 2.5 hours scrapping out the snow this evening. Definitely can’t be good for this subfloor.

IMG_3038.jpeg
 
It will dry out when you get the roof on. Try to get as much of the snow gone before it warms back up in a few days and that way there won't be as much to soak in. Mine got rained on twice before the roof went on, but it dried up fine. Worst case, you might have to sand the joints of the OSB if you're doing hardwood floors. That's where they will pooch up if they swell.
 
JDMopar said:
It will dry out when you get the roof on. Try to get as much of the snow gone before it warms back up in a few days and that way there won't be as much to soak in. Mine got rained on twice before the roof went on, but it dried up fine. Worst case, you might have to sand the joints of the OSB if you're doing hardwood floors. That's where they will pooch up if they swell.
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I’m hopeful that won’t be too much the edges are all painted except where they had to cut it down. Which according to my contractor, those spots are under the exterior walls. We’ll see tomorrow.

I scrapped as much off as I could. Broomed some more. But after 2.5 hours in 9 degrees, I had to call it quits.
 
dukeboy440 said:
I’m hopeful that won’t be too much the edges are all painted except where they had to cut it down. Which according to my contractor, those spots are under the exterior walls. We’ll see tomorrow.

I scrapped as much off as I could. Broomed some more. But after 2.5 hours in 9 degrees, I had to call it quits.
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You gotta leaf blower?
 
FWIW...I had a house built back in 1995 in Michigan over the winter. It was framed and open like yours when we got a big wet and slushy storm. The 1st floor literally had standing water/slush on it as deep as the 2x4 baseplates for the walls. I was concerned about the weight and what all that water would do long term to the wood. In the 28 years we lived there, we never had any issues whatsoever from that water. No creaking floors, no nail pops, etc, etc. Hopefully your experience will be the same.
 
Demonx2 said:
FWIW...I had a house built back in 1995 in Michigan over the winter. It was framed and open like yours when we got a big wet and slushy storm. The 1st floor literally had standing water/slush on it as deep as the 2x4 baseplates for the walls. I was concerned about the weight and what all that water would do long term to the wood. In the 28 years we lived there, we never had any issues whatsoever from that water. No creaking floors, no nail pops, etc, etc. Hopefully your experience will be the same.
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Thanks that makes me feel a lot better.
 
leaf blower worked great today except the colt really does affect the batteries on this thing. Usually I can get 30-40 minutes per battery on a full charge at full power, I maybe got ten if lucky out of each battery today on low speed. -1 degrees sucks
 
Anything below 80 is too cold for me these days....lol. When the roof decking goes on, spend the extra $$ on the good underlayment. We used the vinyl kind last time instead of the old standby 30 lb tar paper. The vinyl self-heals the button cap nail holes and is guaranteed not to leak for 90 days laying there without shingles. We got 2" of snow on a section of our roof in March that didn't have the shingles on a section that covers our laundry room and porch. Didn't leak one drop!
 
RustyRatRod said:
Electric leaf blower? No wonder. gay
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It was a Christmas present last year… I didn’t pick it. But that does remind me, my brother has a gas powered stihl one. I may see if I can borrow it!
 
JDMopar said:
Anything below 80 is too cold for me these days....lol. When the roof decking goes on, spend the extra $$ on the good underlayment. We used the vinyl kind last time instead of the old standby 30 lb tar paper. The vinyl self-heals the button cap nail holes and is guaranteed not to leak for 90 days laying there without shingles. We got 2" of snow on a section of our roof in March that didn't have the shingles on a section that covers our laundry room and porch. Didn't leak one drop!
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I’ve got the ice/water shield stuff. Supposedly better than regular underlay. Nice part is supposedly once the trusses are up, the sheeting, underlay and roof metal will go down same day.

I’m curious to see if they’ll brace the temps today or wait till tomorrow when is 35 degrees warmer at this same time
 
Dan the man said:
IMHO, Gas powered lawn equipment is the only way to go.
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Being a renter until now, I didn’t need much. Just a gas powered weeder since my landlord doesn’t do edging, just mows
 
They hit ground yesterday running. Already putting the roof metal on this morning. Doors and windows will be in this afternoon. They claim to be working till complete today. Snow is already melted out from inside mostly, down to maybe 1/2 inch of slush. Which I’ll broom out later

IMG_3075.jpeg


IMG_3074.jpeg


IMG_3061.jpeg


IMG_3062.jpeg
 
2nd picture looks like you are receiving a hand blessing from above.
lots of roof overhang, don't see that much around here anymore.
is there decking under the roof? are they metal shingles or sheets?
 
That's great that it is now dried in! If you have time and ladders to do it, paint the heck out of your facia boards with some good oil based enamel before they get wrapped. Lots of moisture wicking in that area even though they will be completely covered. If I am ever fortunate enough to build another house, I've discovered a few nit-picky things like that to do next time.
 
abdywgn said:
2nd picture looks like you are receiving a hand blessing from above.
lots of roof overhang, don't see that much around here anymore.
is there decking under the roof? are they metal shingles or sheets?
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Yeah front and rear covered decks/porches. Treated cedar.

Copper Metal roof with osb sheeting and ice/water shield underneath. Tyvex wrapped with board and beaten siding
 

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