Weber Synchronus with stock Kickdown

[Serj22]

I think I made a Weber 38/38 (ELECTRIC choke) work with the stock kickdown parts on a 68 Dart. I'm not really sure if the travel is set correctly, but the lever goes all the way forward and back as it's supposed to. I have an exhaust leak near the stove so I have to pop out this old exhaust manifold and install the new one I got - was trying to save time - mistake. I bought a kickdown cable, but am feeling like I don't want to convert if this works.

Basically, what I have is the kit to mount to a JEEP with a Carter BBD, so it fits on the Supersix manifold. The kit came with a connecting rod and a mount to operate the JEEP's kickdown. I mounted the throttle cable to it, as well as a rod that I took from a seat and bent to shape (will get something sturdier once I work out the shape). That rod goes down to the lever by the exhaust manifold and pushes up and down on it just as the rod on the Holley 1920 did.

The throttle cable needs a 1" spacer to move it off the kickdown assembly and get the cable more in line with the carb lever, and I'd say it's done. I even pulled the original heat coil, and reused the stock spring arm for a spring return.

Let me know your thoughts(besides why it's a purple intake). Kit was about $330.

 

[Serj22]

Well, kickdown works well as it is. The shifting is not rough in the least bit, and when you floor it, it kicks down as it should. The only thing I am tooling with now is the gas pedal cable adjustment. It will not let go of that last little 1/8" after you push it so the cam does not rest back on the idle screw. I tried a stronger spring as well. Basically I have to take my foot and tap the back of the gas pedal to get it unstuck for it to drop back down to idle. I'll post more when I get it sorted out for whoever wants to do the Weber conversion.

 

[nm9stheham]

Looking at your return spring, is it pulling directly through the throttle shaft near idle? The axis of the spring always has to be off to one side of the throttle shaft to have any leverage to close it.

Check in the throttle body and see if the throttle plate is closing against the side of the throat; it should always have a small air gap edge of the plate and the throat. If not and it is closing fully against the side of the throat, the idle will tend to be erratic. You have to make other adjustments to get the idle lower.

 

[Abodybomber]

those 38/38 Webers, are awesome carbs,tuned right.That's a good price,if it was new. Webers prices skyrocketed,over the years.

 

[Serj22]

Looking at your return spring, is it pulling directly through the throttle shaft near idle? The axis of the spring always has to be off to one side of the throttle shaft to have any leverage to close it.

Check in the throttle body and see if the throttle plate is closing against the side of the throat; it should always have a small air gap edge of the plate and the throat. If not and it is closing fully against the side of the throat, the idle will tend to be erratic. You have to make other adjustments to get the idle lower.

The throttle body leaves a slight - very slight but there - air gap. The spring is through a hole I drilled lower on the return arm from the stock carb. Your saying I should **** it over towards the firewall and that will give it more pull?

The air screws on both barrels are only 1 turn out each. I'm assuming with the larger carb that's all it needs, but usually I have to adjust out further with the holley. The problem is that the set screw for idle has to be inward abour 1/4" to touch the cam. If you back it off, and manually pull on the throttle closed, it will move into that quarter inch and lower the idle and stumble (asking for more air from the air adjusting screws). I don't have a tach right now, but I know about what 1000rpm sounds like off the fan, and it seems about 900 is the lowest I can get it. The problem is not a leak anywhere, it's the cam that won't return to the screw.

those 38/38 Webers, are awesome carbs,tuned right.That's a good price,if it was new. Webers prices skyrocketed,over the years.

It was new, everything still in plastic, made in Spain, but the kit itself was "repackaged" as it says on the box. Guessing that just means they took a bunch of other parts and put them in the box - which I figured if it's a kit...

 

[nm9stheham]

No not **** it towards the friewall, but make sure the spring axis is not through, or close togoing through, the throttle shaft axis. It is just hard to tell from the angle of the top picture if this is the case or not. Maybe the cable is at not adjusted positioned quite right. Any recent cable lube?

I'd be curious to know how this runs overall and the mielagae, etc.

 

[Serj22]

No not **** it towards the friewall, but make sure the spring axis is not through, or close togoing through, the throttle shaft axis. It is just hard to tell from the angle of the top picture if this is the case or not. Maybe the cable is at not adjusted positioned quite right. Any recent cable lube?

I'd be curious to know how this runs overall and the mielagae, etc.

I just handled lubing the cable and that helped greatly along with titling the spring location a bit. It returns as it should to the set screw. I'm running my first 10 gallon test with mileage to see. Have not gotten to the 10 point yet though to check the first tank mileage. I'll average it out after 30 gallons total.

 

[nm9stheham]

Good deal!