Weight on or off for torsion bar adjustment

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Popdart

Popdart

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Just a quick easy question from the old timer . . . I want to raise the front of my 73 a bit. I've done this on my 70, 42 years ago . . . but can't remember if you take chassis weight off the torsion bar or leave weight on? Thanks ahead and I'll write it down for the next time in 42 years . . lol, Rog
 
Weight off the torsion bars.
 
Much easier if you unload the suspension a little. Among other things, it is easier to get under the car. If you increase preload with full weight on the suspension, you will probably end up with the front higher than you wanted it. It will tend to "climb" the first time you drive it.
 
I have a 65 Valiant and I've adjusted the ride hight on my car with the weight on. To get the same height from side to side, I measured the lip of the fender, through the center of the wheel stright down to the floor and did the other side the same way until I got it were I wanted it. It will change the alignment of you front wheels some depending on how much you raise or lower the front end. Hope this helps. Jerry
 
Usually what happens with the weight on the suspension is you end up stripping out the adjuster bolts. Even the service manual says weight off the suspension.
 
Thanks guys. Any clue on how many revolutions on the adjustment bolt to lift her, say an inch? Rog
 
I never thought about adjusting it with the frame jacked up. I imagine that is to help avoid stripping the bolt threads. It is usually trial and error, so I go back and forth a few times. I guess it isn't much harder to pump a jack each time since you must crawl out anyway to bounce the end up and down each time to settle. We have it much easier than coil spring guys.

Make sure you check toe-in after adjusting the height. I failed to do that on my 69 Dart years ago and burned up a new pair of tires in 100 miles. Toe-in is greatly affected by ride height (so changes as suspension sags). If you have tires with straight channels, it is fairly easy to do with a tape measure, comparing front then back of the tires. You want ~1/8" toe-in on RWD. That is because as you drive, the front wheels swing back slightly, so it really depends on the play in your suspension, maybe need less if you have all poly bushings. You definitely want no toe-out, since that makes the car wander. If you were to adjust to zero toe-in, you would have slight toe-out while driving.
 
Thanks for setting me stright on the procedure. Sorry for any bad advice. I was taught that way earlier in life. Next time I need to do that, I will try it with the weight off. Nice avatar StrokerScamp. That one catches my eye every time. Jerry
 
jerry's abodies said:
Thanks for setting me stright on the procedure. Sorry for any bad advice. I was taught that way earlier in life. Next time I need to do that, I will try it with the weight off. Nice avatar StrokerScamp. That one catches my eye every time. Jerry
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No sweat......and who's to say what's bad and what ain't? Lots of people have probably done it with the weight on and not had a problem.....but the book says weight off. I try to stick with the service manual much as possible.

On adjustin um, I always fo the same amount on both sides...as long as it's level to begin with. I adjust one full turn to start, let it down, roll it back and jounce it real good and note the difference and repeat if necessary.

Checking the toe is a good call...but you're gonna actually change camber more than toe. Camber changes drastically with ride height changes.
 
jerry's abodies said:
I have a 65 Valiant and I've adjusted the ride hight on my car with the weight on. To get the same height from side to side, I measured the lip of the fender, through the center of the wheel stright down to the floor and did the other side the same way until I got it were I wanted it. It will change the alignment of you front wheels some depending on how much you raise or lower the front end. Hope this helps. Jerry
Click to expand...


I've been adjusting mine to the fender height too but the car always had a tilt in the rear. I recently measured from the bottom of the front frame to the ground and it was way off. Cranked and cranked (weight on) on the drivers side and finally got the front frame bottoms close - and low and behold it also leveled the back out ....

Also, I have an original service manual for a 1962 Plymouth and it doesn't say anything about taking weight off before adjusting. Simply says to measure with it on a flat floor then make adjustments and "jounce" the car up and down several times and then remeasure and adjust again. The issue I see with lifting the car to unload it for adjusting is that when the car comes back down the tires have already turned inwards and are not in the normal driving position relative to the ground. "Jouncing" (love that term) up and down may not fully seat the tires back on the ground each time?
 
..........if ur adjusting any amount at all i suggest loosening the lca nut.....then retorque after adjustment...that way ur not twisting the bushing.............kim..............
 
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