Welded Wire Splices 1966 Dodge Dart?

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coalman

coalman

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Does anyone know the location of these? I am going to run my car prior to putting the instrument cluster back in and would like to shake them a little to see if they are solid. Thanks
 
The one I'm aware of that is the big trouble suspect is in the black ammeter wire a few inches from the eyelet terminal for the ammeter. Just untape the harness and you'll find it
 
Here is the deal, I found both of them under the tape, they are wet in some kind of oily substance, wrapped in that old style tape cloth tape. I wonder what that stuff is. I am going to identify the wires and chase them down tomorrow. Thanks
 
It's called friction tape. Home depot still sells it. Easy to find. It's good stuff.
 
Are you referring to the tape? Yes I know what it is. The oily stuff is my hard question, nothing around those wires to cause that. Thanks for your reply.
 
Did some thinking on the oily stuff, I believe it is the glue on the tape itself dissolving.
 
"Oily" is just the harness wrap deterioration. Same thing with the 70/ later VR and ignition boxes, the potting comes apart. On my turf, I have "a bunch" (a school) of OMC / Johnson/Evinrude outboards. The twins used the same coils from early 50's up through into whenever electronic ignition in the 70's. The epoxy deteriorates, the coils crack open and the windings absorb moisture.

Engine heat can make this work. Under dash, I spose heat from the sun through the windshield.
 
Yes, I had black crap all over my fingers, both welded splices are intact, and I did an ohm check on all the wires from the splices and they were all good. I guess I will start the car up and see what happens. Thanks
 
coalman said:
Voltage still bounces...
Click to expand...

Some of the things that cause this are.....

Voltage drop between battery and voltage regulator power (ignition) terminal

Poor connections and voltage drop in the same path as above, to the alternator output post

Poor ground between VR and battery

Poor brushes or other alternator problems

bad VR

One thing you can do is scare up some wire, even temporary, even solid, like "romex" (house wiring) At least no14 for all but output of alternator at least no 12 or maybe two or three 14's wired in parallel for the output.

Try Bolting a ground wire on the VR mounting bolt and to an engine block bolt

Try a jumper wire from alternator output post to as close to the battery as you can get. The starter relay "big stud" if nothing else

Try a jumper from battery (or starter relay) to VR IGN terminal

No particular order, any one or more can cause this.

If none of this helps, gamble on whatever's cheapest, a new VR or maybe pull the alternator and check it out.
 
Thanks, it is actually doing better than it has been in a long time. I started it up the bounce is better. I have to finish putting it back together and will take it out for a run tomorrow. On the grounds, I have two off the bulkhead, one to each cylinder head, one strap sits under the VR. Ground from frame to front of engine, and the normal battery ground to engine. I have plenty of wire all gauges. I have that modified MADD electric mod with a second wire running from the alternator output to the starter relay big stud. This is number two alternator, as far as regulators I have more than one both mechanical and electronic, the mechanical are a little worse on the bounce. Thanks again for advice!
 
I have an electronic in there, any recommendations, are some better than others? Thanks again.
 
Hard to say. I would jumper power to the VR first and eliminate the harness/ ign switch, see if that makes difference. These can be hard to run down. It can be problems in the alternator too
 
When I had the 2 welded splices unwrapped I chased all the wires from their input to their output, all were 0.0 to 0.1 ohms. The car also has the relay installed. I will try the jumper to the IGN terminal. Thanks again
 
In my 1965 Dart, that welded wire connection on the black ALT wires was green with corrosion. I cleaned up the outside of the wires as best I could with a wire brush, then added solder. That is typical for bare copper stranded wire to corrode and why better stranded wire has the copper "tinned", as they also do with many circuit board copper traces. Wish the factory had dipped that junction in solder. In my 1964 Valiant, I recall that welded connection was still shiny copper. The Dart had lived a harder life since I found more corrosion everywhere.
 
BillGrissom said:
In my 1965 Dart, that welded wire connection on the black ALT wires was green with corrosion. I cleaned up the outside of the wires as best I could with a wire brush, then added solder. That is typical for bare copper stranded wire to corrode and why better stranded wire has the copper "tinned", as they also do with many circuit board copper traces. Wish the factory had dipped that junction in solder. In my 1964 Valiant, I recall that welded connection was still shiny copper. The Dart had lived a harder life since I found more corrosion everywhere.
Click to expand...

My welded splice was in very good shape also, the fuse panel was very corroded. Thanks for reply
 
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