Welders

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A few years back I got a good price on a Hobart 187 online. Then, when I went to my local welding supply place for accessories (gas bottle, hood, wire, gloves, etc...), the guy behind the counter asked me where I bot the machine and how much I paid. So, I told him. First off, he let me know that they will meet any advertised price on equipment they have in stock. And second, as an authorized Miller/Hobart service center they frequently have "reconditioned" or warranty repair machines in stock for a discounted price which carry the same warranty. I could have gotten a package deal on a recon unit plus all the accessories for what I paid online for the bare machine. He gave me a good deal on the stuff I bought that day anyhow. But check with your local welding shop and see what they can do for you. You'll buy stuff from them down the road.

Also, no complaints with the Hobart other than even with a teflon liner it really doesn't push aluminum wire well. If you plan to MIG weld aluminum much get a machine that comes with a spool gun or is set up for one like the newer Hobart 190.
 
EvanS said:
Thank you everyone who helped me out. I got a hobart 140 welder to start with and learn. I still need a welders helmet and gloves, but im not sure what else i would need to get started. Mind you im a beginner and i dont want to spend too much on this. What would you recommend as far as "necessary accessories"? I was just going to buy a cheap helmet and gloves from harbor freight unless there is an overwhelming reason why i shouldnt. Any other suggestions on this are welcomed!
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An assortment of vicegrips, clamps, magnetic angles, flangers, copper backers, slag brushes, flap discs, zip wheels, roloc discs, mig pliers, marking pens, weldable primer, tips, nozzles, and the absolute most important thing of all...a good work clamp. The one that came with your machine is for keeping potato chips fresh. Poor contact will cause you all sorts of problems.
 
All great advice, get an assortment of body hammers, i use a dull pick hammer and peen welds and work the sheet metal as im welding it. Thin cutoff wheels and a huge variety of clamps is a must.
 
C130.... Which shop was that? I need to get a welder soon and prefer to buy local.
 
I have a Hobart 110v 135 handler and it’s been a great little welder. I weld on gas, not flux core. I can’t conplain about it’s small chores. 1/4” gets the Miller 220v.
 
Bodyperson said:
Hobart auto-dark helmet with the big lens. Tig gloves make handling the torch easier. Reading glasses really help too.
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I bought the Eastwood helmet with the big lens that's adjustable. Makes a huge difference! HF has some good gloves for ~ $10.00 too. Glasses also. One big thing is to get in a comfortable position where you can see the wire come out of the tip. Try to keep the gun gas shield a constant distance from the work piece.

Have a good time!
 
if you are going to do horizontal welding ,or overhead, i suggest an ac/dc welder, you can reverse the leads making your car positive ,and the welding lead negative, makes it a lot easier if you are a newbe to welding,,,speaking from experience,as far as brand, it has to do with how much and how long you need the welder, 1 project or more down the road
 
I have the Thermal Arc 181i and really like it. When I did a search all I can find is this machine. Looks like they are branded as Tweco. Looks the same but is different color and is more expensive than what I paid 3 years ago. I have not used the TIG because I don't know how or have the right gas but the mig works great. The stick is ok only used once. If I would do it again I would get a dual voltage machine. My friend has the bigger thermal arc 211i and he really likes it.

www.weldersupply.com/p/538/ThermalArcFabricator181i

I agree with going to a welding supply store and talking to them. A lot of times they will price match. Mine gave a discount on the bottle when you bought the welder there. Plus they will service what they sell so they are less likely to recommend something that is not as dependable.
 
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Most importantly - learn from an experienced welder. It's very easy to put down a few beads that look good, then find out they'll break under any stress at all. I spent years as a welding supervisor at Newport News Shipbuilding so I've seen it all. Plenty of newbies like the look of their welds but there's very little penetration into the base material. And you definitely don't want a failure in a vehicle you're driving.
Also, do not reverse the polarity on a MIG unit unless you're switching from MIG to flux core. Makes it a bit easier to MIG overhead and on thin pieces but again, you lose penetration. One more thing - be sure you don't burn out your electronic ignition module welding on the vehicle. You may have to remove it before starting.
 
I mostly use an AHP 200 TIG, it does very clean welds. can be a pain when you are in a position where you can't use the foot pedal but the finger trigger does the job
 
Millermatic 180 Cant go wrong with Millers I've welded 3/8 mild no problem. Get good equipment so you know if your welds are bad its you and not the machine.
 
There are several welders in our shop. Miller 200 mig, Miller 225 sincrowave tig. Lenco spot welder for panels. Hobart 140 110 volt to take in the race trailer and sheet metal. there is also a miller hand held spot welder. two Hypertherm plasma cutters and a CNC plasma Cam. I will say go with Miller for a welder. Hypertherm for plasma. Name brand is the only way to go for consumables and hard parts.
 
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