Welding FABO members....im calling you out....be ready to rock and roll

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Srt8 dart are you skilled in the art of spray transfer mig welding? Can it be done on a 110v welder because I use to be good at it with our old 220v but can't seem to get the transfer right on the lower voltage welder.

Hi johnparts, yeah, I've used that process many a times. Some customers products require us to use that process...for whatever their reasons are.

We use an ER70S-6 .035" hard wire usually paired with 95/5 Argon/Carbon Gas mix. The perimeters are I think 22V at the lowest to run, otherwise you start just running back into a globular transfer. We usually run it around 24-26V's which if I recall is around 260-280amps, just depends on wire speed. I'm not sure a 110v welder can push the amps needed for that kind of transfer, what kind of gas(s) have you tried?
You can also substitute with 85/15 Argon/Carbon and have the best of both worlds. Run it low for more of a globular transfer and run it high for more of the spray.
For those who are somewhat beginners, Argon helps put heat into the part and takes care of alot of spatter. A straight carbon gas gives you alot of spatter but doesn't run as hot. The mix is what helps the weld look nice and perty, gives great penetration, and less spatter.
 
aluminum
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using a miller syncrowave
 

Argon helps put heat into the part and takes care of alot of spatter. A straight carbon gas gives you alot of spatter but doesn't run as hot. The mix is what helps the weld look nice and perty, gives great penetration, and less spatter.
to add an example.While building heavy equipment trailers my boss wanted me to switch to 75/25 argon with .035 wire like the other guys building sheet metal truck beds.So I grabbed a few pieces of 1/4" metal and welded two t joints one with 75/25 and .035 wire the other I used my 95/5 with .045 wire.After cutting them both in half you could clearly see the 95/5-.045 was penatrating deeper in the metal.Needless to say I kept my gas and wire.Thicker than 1/4" needs 95/5 with .045 wire 1/4" down to 1/8" or 10 gauge 75/25 and .035 works good amything thinner you have to be careful not to warp the metal.
 
Here is a sample of the welds used for our crane bodies that are built where I work at . A three pass weld used for all of our CRK bodies ( crane reinforcement kit ) . All welds are NDTed on site ( non - destructive tested ) - X-rayed , for any sign of porosity for maximum strustural integrity . This is only a 1/2 inch plate instead of a 1 and 3/8 plate . I just got bored last night and played around for awhile . It tested fine though ! These are the bodies that we make .
 

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Are you sure about the x-ray on a t-joint? We have vessels and tanks x-rayed all the time but that's on butt-joints.
I've been taught that you can't x-ray a t-joint because of the way the patch or film has to sit flush/flat along the joint in order to really catch or "see" what's in it efficiently.

Are you sure it isn't a mag particle test, dye penetrate test, or ultrasound test??
If it's an x-ray, then that would be a first for me.

Not trying to be a butt or anything, so I hope it isn't taken that way, just have been under the impression that you can't x-ray a t-joint.

I mean, i can see the UT for this as it pretty much does what the x-ray does just more versatile.
 
Mopar410, at our shop we use .045 Lincoln Ultracore most of the time with 75/25 and that's on pretty much from 1/4" plate and up....like 4", 6", 8" inch plate. But that's running at around 300amps average.

Our new weld engineer is wanting to make a switch to the 85/15 which would definitely help with penetration in the heavier plate. Former engineers have wanted to switch completely to an .045 ER70S-6 hard wire and run the 95/5 mix on all of our heavy stuff, which does make sense because that stuff will DIG in let me tell you, lol. Not to mention there's practically zero cleanup with it which= more efficiency and $$$. The problem with that though is it isn't an "all position" wire and we weld quite a bit out of position so we need the uphill/overhead welding capability. It's either spend a lot of time trying to position a particular weldment with a crane(s) or just be able to weld it "right now" out of position.....one of those give or take deals. lol
 
I wasn't in the room , and don't know what they do on the technical side of it , I handed it in , and they said it passed . My bad on it . I am not in on all the geek side of things in that area .
 
I wasn't in the room , and don't know what they do on the technical side of it , I handed it in , and they said it passed . My bad on it . I am not in on all the geek side of things in that area .

Lol, no worries dude. I'm still learning, even after 10 yrs of doin this crap, lol, and for all I know, someone may do it. :scratch:
 
aluminum
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using a miller syncrowave

Nice. We have a few of those at work, along with a number of Lincolns, and some old Hobarts. The Hobarts work great and are pretty simple to operate as well.
I actually learned to TIG alum first, which is prob why I find it easier to weld. Just certed on carbon/mild steel a few months ago.
Problem with aluminum is getting it clean enough to weld, lol.

Remember when cleaning aluminum, use a stainless wire brush. Another tip for those who may consider trying to weld alum in the future
 
Hahaha ! I'm just a stupid wire-burner anyway .

LOL, yeah, that's what we all say. I'm just the dumb welder. It's the dingalings up in the front office that "really know what they're doing."

It's funny that just cuz it looks good on paper they automatically assume that it's all going to come together that easy on the floor. And when it doesn't, it's somehow your fault! LOL.
 
I go through that EVERY day . My job has too much stupid . And most of the stupid has their own offices .
 
memike is an old stick welder, who needs a cutting torch when you have extra
2010 (I think) rods:D
 
Nice. We have a few of those at work, along with a number of Lincolns, and some old Hobarts. The Hobarts work great and are pretty simple to operate as well.
I actually learned to TIG alum first, which is prob why I find it easier to weld. Just certed on carbon/mild steel a few months ago.
Problem with aluminum is getting it clean enough to weld, lol.

Remember when cleaning aluminum, use a stainless wire brush. Another tip for those who may consider trying to weld alum in the future

Im going to pick up a Hobart for my home shop use. Ive heard good things about them from others. I also learned how to tig aluminum before steel aswell! My problem is finding the right "heat" range because generally im welding two different thicknesses. When i really get rolling on my new project i will dust it off and get some more practice!
 
Yeah, with tig, I like to start low on the amps and bump it up little by little until it will melt the base metal at full pedal. That way I'm not meltin the crap out of it while trying to find a nice spot playing with the pedal. Also, because some machines will run different than what the display or dial shows, especially if they're not callibrated regularly.
 
Adding 2" Square Tube "Hitch" Style "Quick Connect" Mounts to the Upper Plow Frame for my '84 D50.

Pretty obvious that I haven't taken any of the courses for a welding cert, isn't it? Which reminds me, I want to take those courses eventually.

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Still have some more work to do on the plow frame, and I have to remove what's left of the old mounts too
 
Adding 2" Square Tube "Hitch" Style "Quick Connect" Mounts to the Upper Plow Frame for my '84 D50.

Pretty obvious that I haven't taken any of the courses for a welding cert, isn't it? Which reminds me, I want to take those courses eventually.

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Still have some more work to do on the plow frame, and I have to remove what's left of the old mounts too
It's not a row of dimes but it does look burned in pretty good.A uniform weld has less possible break points ie:where the weld is passed over another area that was previously welded partially(if that makes sinse).The key to a "pretty" weld is a uniform movment whether its circles'half cirlces,figure 8's and the list goes on.I prefere semi circles or slants (/)with a mig and circles or back and forth with a stick depending on material and thickness.
 
It's not a row of dimes but it does look burned in pretty good.A uniform weld has less possible break points ie:where the weld is passed over another area that was previously welded partially(if that makes sinse).The key to a "pretty" weld is a uniform movment whether its circles'half cirlces,figure 8's and the list goes on.I prefere semi circles or slants (/)with a mig and circles or back and forth with a stick depending on material and thickness.

Yeah, it's far from pretty. It was hard for me to get a good pattern/movement since I had to weld that left handed, I keep messing up my right hand. Ever notice that when you've got an injury on your hand, it draws more injuries like a magnet?

Here's an older weld (about 2 years ago), Square Tube Transmission Crossmember on the '84 D50. Should be pretty obvious that the truck has a Small Block in it, by the shiny "oil slick" appearance of everything under the truck :D


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Nice welding fellas! i tinker mostly at home with welding, have done qtr skins and similiar. I bought a miller sncrowave but have not used it yet. I built this power cage to put in our base ment, its in three main components so it breaks down. Cant really see any welds but made it from scratch, including drilling all of those holes!
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Well I guess if you are calling us out I weld. Prefer tig myself and I cheated and used a sander on one of these but that is also a pretty valuable skill. Knowing how to metal finish pieces correctly. Keeping the welds coming and there's some nice work here.:burnout:
 

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