Well It Leaks AGAIN!

-
Looks like they gooped some kind of sealant knowing it was going to leak
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Pull that cam plug out.
Get cup style ..fine line of sealer then install cup face toward cam and using a punch...hammer it in the center to spread and lock it into place...then another clean bead of sealer around plug edge to make sure its leak proof.
Click to expand...

I thought my rear main was leaking but did not know you had to hit center with a socket. Took it out and put some permatex on the sides of new plug and hole. Installed and expanded with socket on short extension (with cam still installed and motor doesn't leak a drop.
 
Your plug should look like the silver one in Pic. You install dome facing out and hit with socket to expand. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Freeze plug.jpg
 
Well here's the pic of the leak. Dye was put in the oil and ultraviolet light was used. This is only after about 10 seconds of running the oil pump
20190823_142931.jpg
 
Can you angle the shots and light up into the seal area behind the flange, and see if it is just coming from the lower edge of the seal? Then from the sides behind the flange, so that you can make sure it is not coming out of the 'seam' between rear cap and block, and then running down the seal area. On one side, that 'seam' is right by where the pressurized oil goes from the pump and up into the block, and that area is a suspect.

BTW, that's clever with the dye!
 
If it leaks just by running the oil pump, odds are there is a crack in the cap or block area. The seal, is NOT exposed to oil pressure from the pump. Crank journal could also be a culprit
 
Kendog 170 said:
I thought my rear main was leaking but did not know you had to hit center with a socket. Took it out and put some permatex on the sides of new plug and hole. Installed and expanded with socket on short extension (with cam still installed and motor doesn't leak a drop.
Click to expand...

Use something too big and you might come back talking about a crack in the block.
That's why I use a blunt punch and hammer.
 
When you do get that cap off, you might check to verify the groove for the seal is consistent depth throughout the radius. (As in not forcing the seal out of round)
 
IMG_20190824_124823690.jpg
IMG_20190824_124815378.jpg
IMG_20190824_124806402.jpg
Well here it is guys. This is probably what caused the leak. Oil was being squirted at the seal because of the displaced oil pump gasket. Here are the pictures.
 
Have you considered not using that gasket. That one looks way thicker than the ones I have seen. Normally they are so thin you can almost see through them. The oil pump and main cap surfaces in my opinion don’t need that gasket.
Check the cap and pump surfaces with something you know has a straight edge. If they area both good level surfaces, forget the gasket.
 
Maybe filling up the area behind the seal via the drain slot near the gasket break? Or going out the pan gasket?

Gotta wonder if the pump was jacked up just a tiny bit by the cap bolt and that allowed the gasket to let go. That cap bolt has a washer under it that will raise the bolt head. If there is contact to the pump body, any gap will worse with the gasket removed. Seems like this washer issue has reared its ugly head for others....

The gasket area around the lower right bolt in the pix looks messed with.... was that just from removing the pump? BTW, I'll always put a super thin skim coat of #2 Permatex on gaskets like that to make sure they stay put.

I'd still pull the rear cap and replace the seal, and investigate all of that.
 
nm9stheham said:
Maybe filling up the area behind the seal via the drain slot near the gasket break? Or going out the pan gasket?

Gotta wonder if the pump was jacked up just a tiny bit by the cap bolt and that allowed the gasket to let go. That cap bolt has a washer under it that will raise the bolt head. If there is contact to the pump body, any gap will worse with the gasket removed. Seems like this washer issue has reared its ugly head for others....

The gasket area around the lower right bolt in the pix looks messed with.... was that just from removing the pump? BTW, I'll always put a super thin skim coat of #2 Permatex on gaskets like that to make sure they stay put.

I'd still pull the rear cap and replace the seal, and investigate all of that.
Click to expand...
i agree on pulling the cap while it's this far apart.
 
[QUOTE="nm9stheham, post: 1972627967, member: 33188"

Gotta wonder if the pump was jacked up just a tiny bit by the cap bolt and that allowed the gasket to let go. That cap bolt has a washer under it that will raise the bolt head. If there is contact to the pump body, any gap will worse with the gasket removed. Seems like this washer issue has reared its ugly head for others.....[/QUOTE]


I would really check this real close .
 
I never use a gasket on the oil pump, never thought of that type of failure!
 
Well I bought a new Melling pump just to be safe. It came with 2 ultra thin gaskets so I will pup one in. We checked the old Mopar Performance pump with a straight edge and it looked fine but we didn't like the looks of the inside of the pump so we're replacing it. We're heading back out now to install the seal and pan gasket.
 
Okay so we gotta come clean here, after further investigation we THINK we have the answer to why this seal leaked. Someone suggested on my previous engine build thread that we needed to make sure that the pump was not being interfered with by the larger ARP bolts. Sure enough when we went to put this new pump in it was very evident that it was not setting flush with the block. We wound up grinding a little bit of the pump body to gain the necessary clearance. The way it looks is that because the pump was not sitting flush it caused the gasket to fail shooting oil against the rear main seal and therefore causing the last two seal failures. We are going to put oil in it today, run the pump and make sure we do not see any leakage. I'm then going to drain that oil and put in some good Royal Purple oil. With any luck we'll have this back in the engine compartment today. Oh yeah, photos..
IMG_20190824_211135301-2000x1500.jpg
IMG_20190824_144813086-1500x2000.jpg
IMG_20190824_144829568-1500x2000.jpg
IMG_20190824_144829568-1500x2000.jpg
IMG_20190824_144829568-1500x2000.jpg
IMG_20190824_144813086-1500x2000.jpg
 
I am sure forum readers like that you have followed through and posted pictures and
results of this often often discussed nasty little problem. Too many posters with problems just fade away after they have revolved their issues which is not a service
to FABO readers.
 
Theres an "etiquette" thread on here that a lot of what's being discussed can apply to this forum as a whole. SOME dont realize how valuable the info is that gets posted, and what people do to document/post/take pics/share.
Theres THANKS/LIKE buttons....USE THEM.
Thanks!
66jim said:
I am sure forum readers like that you have followed through and posted pictures and
results of this often often discussed nasty little problem. Too many posters with problems just fade away after they have revolved their issues which is not a service
to FABO readers.
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Theres an "etiquette" thread on here that a lot of what's being discussed can apply to this forum as a whole. SOME dont realize how valuable the info is that gets posted, and what people do to document/post/take pics/share.
Theres THANKS/LIKE buttons....USE THEM.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
I appreciate all of the help that I have received on this forum and I am very happy to give back. I will post some pictures as we reinstall the engine and I will keep everyone posted on how things work out..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top