Well It Leaks AGAIN!

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My post was a generality, not directed at you in any way, I hope it wasnt taken that way.
What about that rear cam plug?
superchargeddrt said:
I appreciate all of the help that I have received on this forum and I am very happy to give back. I will post some pictures as we reinstall the engine and I will keep everyone posted on how things work out..
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That did look a little bummed up, I would change it, and I'm sure he did. I'm glad you finally got that problem fixed, but I did like that blower.

Jeff
 
superchargeddrt said:
I will look at the surface when we have it apart but this is a fresh engine (700 miles) with a brand Molnar crank in it. I am betting that my PCV system (stock style with a breather) isn't up to the task of a 418 stroker. Anyway you look at it the main seal has to be replaced do the engine has got to come OUT AGAIN aaaaarrrrgh.
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Evacuated system might stop it.
 
harrisonm said:
I have got to say that I have NEVER heard of a "pressure" situation that would force oil out the rear main seal.
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When I used to race my 13 second dart 340 many years ago, it would not leak oil per se but after a 1/4 mile run, the valve cover would be moist, occasionally the dipstick was pushed out an inch, the main seal was wet.
I put an evacupan system onto the header collector and all this seepage went away. My new 10 second w2 motor will have a belt driven vacuum pump for even more vacuum for hopefully a small power increase as well. Crankcase pressure can cause these issues.
 
To have it turn out to be something like stud interference ,so basic ...I'm very surprised it was missed.
Never think it's all down hill once the rotating assembly is in. Pay close attention all the way down to the pan and valve covers.
 
Okay guys so here's a little update. We clearanced the pump housing by about 1/8" to work with the ARP bolts. We put in the new seal (from Superformance) with just a small amount of Permatex Right Stuff where the end pieces meet the main seal.We also found that we had to open the Milidon oil pan baffle to clear the pump pick up.all of this added up to a leaking main seal. We installed the engine, ran it for about 15 minutes with no signs of leaking. I took it for a short (because of rain) drive and all is well, it is running even better than before and it started immediately up with out any issues. I will keep you all posted. Thanks for all your help!
 
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That is so awesome! Thank you for all the details and following up. I have what appears to be a rear main leak on my semi-fresh 340 stroker build, where we also used the ARP bolts/studs, so i will definitely be looking more closely at that area and the oil pump gasket.
Thank you again and best wishes!
-Doug
 
MobileCustoms said:
That is so awesome! Thank you for all the details and following up. I have what appears to be a rear main leak on my semi-fresh 340 stroker build, where we also used the ARP bolts/studs, so i will definitely be looking more closely at that area and the oil pump gasket

Thank you again and best wishes!
-Doug
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Absolutely Doug,
If I can be of any assistance just ask.
 
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