What’s up with R134 prices?

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I really got stabbed, $40 for 18 oz at Walmart
The can did have a hose and a gauge on it though
It was really driven home (no pun intended) when I discovered I could have bought gauges for $25
 
AFAIK, R134a has never been "outlawed".

If it was, you couldn't buy it easily, as is the case with R12.

...but the patent expired.
 
R12 is an easy buy in Mexico, mix it in with the dope and the feds won’t know
 
AFAIK, R134a has never been "outlawed".

If it was, you couldn't buy it easily, as is the case with R12.

...but the patent expired.
Yeah 134A hasnt been outlawed to purchase but I think they passed a law where new cars have to use the 1234y stuff moving forward. Ether way time to stock up on 134 stuff if you havent done so...
 
Yeah 134A hasnt been outlawed to purchase but I think they passed a law where new cars have to use the 1234y stuff moving forward. Ether way time to stock up on 134 stuff if you havent done so...
didnt know that.. can you add 1234 to 134 or have vacuum?
 
didnt know that.. can you add 1234 to 134 or have vacuum?
Your question is if you can add R-1234yc to a system with R-134A refrigerant? The answer is "no" since the EPA does not allow mixing refrigerants. All refrigerant must first be recovered by an approved shop tool. Oils must be changed if required. You then evacuate the system before adding the new refrigerant. Of course if all your refrigerant leaked out, there is nothing to recover.

Perhaps the EPA's most absurd rule is that if you change from R-12 to a HC refrigerant, you must first install R-134A, then evacuate it. They are also still "evaluating" the safety of HC refrigerant, going on 25 years now. But, you are allowed to buy and use HC refrigerant under federal rules, though some states or localities have their own rules outlawing it (laws pushed by AC shops who don't want an easy home fix). Whatever refrigerant you use, or will use in the future, I understand that PAO68 is the best oil since compatible with all, doesn't absorb moisture, and better stays put in the compressor for more efficiency (doesn't coat heat exchanger tubes). If working at home, keep looking over your shoulder for an EPA spy drone.
 
I tried one of the propane "Enviro- something" brands.

My 2000 Dakota puked it back out.

I put 134a back in and it's been "better" but not as cold as new.

Funny, as it actually vented out the high side connector.

I thought it had blown a seal, but after it coughed up all that "refrigerant", the port appeared to be OK.

I can't explain it, but that's what happened.
 
All above is interesting but so everyone knows the only reason prices are doubled is because federal mandates cutting production of R134a as well as R 410 and others.
 
Also r1234yc operates at much higher condenser pressures so it requires different compressor and higher rated system. And Mercedes Benz still refuses to us it because in the first test they witnessed, it caught fire in standard accident conditions
 
Yeah 134A hasnt been outlawed to purchase but I think they passed a law where new cars have to use the 1234y stuff moving forward. Ether way time to stock up on 134 stuff if you havent done so...
Was curious so checked just now. My cost right now is twelve 12once cans of 134a is $99.99 delivered
Just glad it is not 100 dollars.
 
Also r1234yc operates at much higher condenser pressures so it requires different compressor and higher rated system. And Mercedes Benz still refuses to us it because in the first test they witnessed, it caught fire in standard accident conditions
Where are you getting that r1234yf (idk where you're getting the c from ether) operates at a "much higher pressure"? It is true that r1234yf is more flammable than r134a.

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didnt know that.. can you add 1234 to 134 or have vacuum?
It has to be a dead empty system. Don't go mixing refrigerants. There are conversion valves for sale as r1234yf take a different hook up. NOW.... converting is no way endorsed by any OEM or EPA BUT does it work... yes.
 
I tried one of the propane "Enviro- something" brands.

My 2000 Dakota puked it back out.

I put 134a back in and it's been "better" but not as cold as new.

Funny, as it actually vented out the high side connector.

I thought it had blown a seal, but after it coughed up all that "refrigerant", the port appeared to be OK.

I can't explain it, but that's what happened.
Strange since one adds refrigerant at the low-side port. If you didn't have a gage attached to the high-side port, perhaps the Schrader valve had been stuck open and the oil flowing thru it lubricated it enough to close again. If you had left the system with no pressure for a long time, atmospheric moisture can get inside which is absorbed in PAG oil to form corrosive oils. Some people then fill with a HC refrigerant, find a leak in corroded metal, like an aluminum condenser and blame the refrigerant. That would have happened with any refrigerant which pressurizes the system.
 
Was working but not cold.

Tried the "Enviro-".

Did have gauges attached to both ports.

Ran for about 10-15 minutes before it purges it's self.

134a made it better than it was before I tried the other but still not super cold.


I found it very odd.

Sometimes Chryslers, more than any other brand, exhibit "personality" traits.
 
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