What A/F Gauge do you run

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Why not? It's a basic tuning aid.

Innovate does offer a controller for $250. They also have a simple sensor interface but that comes with the LC-1 pkg.

I told you why not. That unit (as do all wideband sensors) must have a controller, it just may be inside the gauge. So if you got one for that money that does NOT have wire outputs, you are getting had.

My kit, photo of which was posted earlier, does everything that thing does AND is programmable, AND has wire outputs AND costs less shipped to my door.

The kit I got came with O2 sensor, the bung, LC-1 controller, software, and digital display for under 160 bucks.
 
Be patient and search ebay every few weeks for "rich lean" and you can score a simple rich/lean indicator for $25 like I did. It gives me great feedback on my Holley Pro-jection since I changed to the 2D box that doesn't have the O2 light of the older box. If you want to roll-your-own with just a digital multimeter on a narrow-band sensor, you could make an R-C circuit to filter the fluctuations. If so, use a ceramic capacitor, not electrolytic or you may ruin the O2 sensor. Similarly, don't use an old voltmeter with needle (galvonometer) since they draw considerable current which can damage the sensor. At least that was the story when they first came out in the 80's. Even it it doesn't destroy it, you would draw the signal down. You can find simple universal O2 sensors cheap on ebay. All you need is the 1-wire type. My 82 Aries had that if you want to try rockauto.

You want cheap, I am Mr. Cheap (see tagline). I got an O2 sensor w/ indicator LED and exhaust bung for ~$5 brand-new on ebay. It was called "emissions warning light", for Onan generators I recall. Used it on my car ~6 mo. to monitor my Pro-jection but has ~30 sec filter so the delay was too long to grab the Pro-jection knobs before the engine stumbed (lean), so I changed to the Holley indicator. For a carb, wouldn't matter since no knobs to tweak. I got a bunch of new stuff cheap from the same surplus house, including an MSD wide-band O2 sensor. If in a rush, PM me and I will sell what I had on my car (or equiv.) for $15 + shipping. Just a rich/lean LED, not wideband.
thanks bill, you will have a pm soon.:cheers:
 
I told you why not. That unit (as do all wideband sensors) must have a controller, it just may be inside the gauge. So if you got one for that money that does NOT have wire outputs, you are getting had.

My kit, photo of which was posted earlier, does everything that thing does AND is programmable, AND has wire outputs AND costs less shipped to my door.

The kit I got came with O2 sensor, the bung, LC-1 controller, software, and digital display for under 160 bucks.

Different animal, dude. The gauge I showed is AN-A-LOG readout or at least an analog interpretation of digital data.

But for arguments sake, I guess you're right. Regardless, I still like that one the best and wouldn't want the one that looks like a clock radio. I personally don't need to mess with programming, input/output and such when dealing with my carburetor.

I don't claim to know everything.
 
OK, well you CAN get different displays for the "other brands" of stuff, too. You can even get one (forget if it's innovate or brand Y) which you can change from graphical, digital, or analog. Some display both simultaneously.

Just trynna point out that yours may or may not be well spent, and the website certainly is not forthcoming with a lot of info, either, LOL

If it works well and you're happy with it, that's all that matters!!!
 
Thanks guys. I went with the MTX-l from amazon with an xtra bung/plug and free shiping total was ~$170. I don't think i'm close enough for the narrow band and the ease and reviews of the MTX sold me. Plus, my father wanted to know what to get me for an xmas gift, so I told him he could kick in whatever he wanted towards the cost and wrap it up for me :)
 
I run the AEM UEGO wideband, works like a champ. Easily one of the best things I've bought to help me understand carb tuning.

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I'm installing this same unit as we speak :) Quick question about the bung placement. How far down the exhaust tube should this be placed? I'm a little tight for space and i'm planning on welding it (10degrees above centerline) on the passenger side towards the end of the transmission. Is this too far?
 
I'm installing this same unit as we speak :) Quick question about the bung placement. How far down the exhaust tube should this be placed? I'm a little tight for space and i'm planning on welding it (10degrees above centerline) on the passenger side towards the end of the transmission. Is this too far?

Way too far. You will not get an accurate reading and the sensor will most likely not get hot enough. I have the same one. Somewhere near the merge collector if possible. On my turbo motor I mounted 2 bungs, 1 on each side about 18" away from the turbos on the down pipes.
 
did you install the bungs in the header themselves? I have TTi's and would rather go just after the header if possible.

Way too far. You will not get an accurate reading and the sensor will most likely not get hot enough. I have the same one. Somewhere near the merge collector if possible. On my turbo motor I mounted 2 bungs, 1 on each side about 18" away from the turbos on the down pipes.
 
Thanks mad dart.
I'm running stock manifolds on my 360. Would it be safe to weld it right where the downpipes come down and start to go horizontal along the bottom of the car (so around the front of the transmission)?

Since I'm only installing one bung, is one side of the exhaust better (passenger vs. driver side) then the other. I'm running a H pipe dual exhaust 2.25 inch
 
did you install the bungs in the header themselves? I have TTi's and would rather go just after the header if possible.

If you have nice headers I would weld in a bung after the collector flange. On my Turbo motor I made the downpipes so YES I added the bungs on each side 18" away from the turbo exhaust out.

67cuda360 Thanks mad dart.
I'm running stock manifolds on my 360. Would it be safe to weld it right where the downpipes come down and start to go horizontal along the bottom of the car (so around the front of the transmission)?

Since I'm only installing one bung, is one side of the exhaust better (passenger vs. driver side) then the other. I'm running a H pipe dual exhaust 2.25 inch

Somewhere after the manifold flange on either side of the engine is fine. I would pick the easiest one to get at. If you want you can weld one on each side and move it around for tuning. Not necessary but it is an added feature.
 
i almost jumped on the AFR bandwagon... with a data logger there is alot of info you can get while racing or even just driving. but lets face it, you cannot tell what engine will like what afr, even one is different. instead of spending that 200 bucks on that you can spend that money on fuel for the track and do some jetting changes... or dyno day if your really worried its gonna lean out on you...

all in all... the engine wants what the engine wants...
 
Need to jump in on this one. I am still not sure what to get. Running a LA 360, Holley carb and hooker headers. I have no problem drilling a hole in the headers for a bung. It`s a race car. Which one would be my best bet?
 
For full throttle, the track will work.

Daily driver and tuning for street duty, they are a great tool. You can't get a read on what the engine is really doing at partial throttle points. A great example is a 950hp carbs. Run great at idle and full throttle, pig rich at cruise point in between. I know guys that have had this issue and think the car is tuned great, until they actually get a good tune up!

Tune ups will generally fall in an AF range for idle, cruise and WOT. The item will pay for itself pretty quick if you have a high 11's cruise AF and get it to run in the 13+ range.

I placed a bung about 10-12" behind the pass side tti collector flange on my Dart.
 
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