What are y'all using?

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VonCramp

VonCramp

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When converting over to large bolt pattern axles, what drums and brakes are you using for the 8.75? On my car the axles and drums were drilled out to the larger size 4 1/2" pattern. So, I have the 10" drums and brakes still. I have found aftermarket axles by Mark Williams Master Line. As some of you may recall one of my axles was cut down by the guy who built my differential. Thus, negating the need for at least one new axle. Since aftermarket axles have the larger flange on them, what drums can I use that have the larger opening to fit the bigger flange? I would like to keep my stock brakes if possible. Thanks. btw Has anyone ever just had the drum's flange opening machined out to fit the larger axle flange? :eek:ops:
 
I bought axles from Dr Diff and I'm probably going to put on his 11.7" disc brake setup with Cobra calipers.
 
I have 11x2.5" brakes on my Challenger, Duster and EL5 GT. Both the Challenger and Duster have 68-70 B body 8 3/4 housings and stock BBP axles with 3" wheel studs. The GT has BBP A-body length axles from Dr.Diff, and that's the only one that hasn't seen the road yet. All 3 have the heavier finned versions of the 11x2.5" drums.

I wouldn't use anything that involved redrilled SBP drums. They're not being made anymore, and they're just going to get more expensive and harder to find. 10x2.5" BBP brakes came on hundreds of thousands of cars and trucks all the way up to the early 90's, so replacement parts are easy. The 11x2.5" drums didn't come on quite that many cars/trucks, but at least at the moment they're still reproduced and readily available.

I also use the later 11.75" Mopar rotors on the front on my Challenger and GT, I have Dr. Diff's 13" cobra brake kit on the Duster.
 
10 X 2 1/2 inch brakes are the easiest to get replacement parts for.Think Dakota when asking for parts.JMO
 
I have done it both ways. re-drilled the stock drums for the larger pattern & used the larger B or C body brake assemblies. it really depends on what you have, how much you want to spend or have access to.
 
I used C body axles that were shortened by Moser. They called me when received and asked specifically what brakes I was going to use.

I used B body brakes 10' x 2-1/2". I sourced the backing plates from a swap meet for $10/pr. I already had a very nice pair of drums and had them turned. Found the Raybestos shoes at another swap meet and sourced the hardware and wheel cylinders from Rockauto. IIRC, the F-body cars, 73 and newer A-bods and M-body cars also used 10" x 2-1/2" drums in the rear but the E-brake attachment hole may be different in the backing plates. Whatever you use, the offset built into the backing plates must match the drums and shoes.

In my opinion, 11" drums on the rear of an A-body are overkill unless you are driving up and down Mt. Washington or Pikes Peak every day. Those drums are EXTREMELY heavy and will be slower than 10" drums because of the mass that must be accelerated. How many panic stops do you do consecutively anyway?

Using shortened C-body axles and those brakes increased my rear track exactly 3/8" per side. With the front 73-76 discs I look at it as having Road Runner-sized brakes on my 68.
 
Rear disc brakes are real nice, but I would strongly advise you before you make that conversion, to find out what your problem is now for sure with your rear brakes, because you don't want that problem being transferred over when you do your disc conversion.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Rear disc brakes are real nice, but I would strongly advise you before you make that conversion, to find out what your problem is now for sure with your rear brakes, because you don't want that problem being transferred over when you do your disc conversion.
Click to expand...
No brake problem. I have an axle problem until I get my new one from eBay. The brake problem is minor because it's just a matter of flange size. Thanks again for your advice!
 
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