What cam should I use on 318?

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mflynn

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I am restoring a 1968 Cuda. I have a 318. Originally 2 bbl but I am putting 4 bbl on it and headers. Replacing rockers, rods and lifters. Pulled it apart yesterday and decided to put a new cam in it as well. I've read some posts that are way above my knowledge level. I don't want to get into the tech details, I'm just looking for some suggestions on what cam I should use. Any ideas?
 
Tell us the intended usage of the car, if replacing the torque converter is within the budget, gear ratio and tire size.
 
Biggest I'd go is comp xe262h
Said to make 282 hp at 5000 rpm with your combo
 
Tell us the intended usage of the car, if replacing the torque converter is within the budget, gear ratio and tire size.

This is a father-son project (I'm the father). The boy will be driving it around town this spring and summer, cruising and I hope to eventually get the wife in it for some longer trips. Looking for cool with a little performance uptick, nothing crazy. Want the classic hot rod rumble too but don't want it to be stalling out. But I'm not in for a stall converter. Don't know gear ratios but it's a small, stock rear-end, nothing special. Running 225/70R15 on the back.

Thanks for the help!
 
This is a father-son project (I'm the father). The boy will be driving it around town this spring and summer, cruising and I hope to eventually get the wife in it for some longer trips. Looking for cool with a little performance uptick, nothing crazy. Want the classic hot rod rumble too but don't want it to be stalling out. But I'm not in for a stall converter. Don't know gear ratios but it's a small, stock rear-end, nothing special. Running 225/70R15 on the back.

Thanks for the help!

A little gas mileage would be nice too, but my real car is a Durango RT with a Hemi, so I'm used to 20-22 MPG highway.
 
The suggested cam would be as big as you would want to go. Should provide plenty of pep & good hot rod sound.
 
For your level experience, I always suggest that you buy matched stuff. I like Edelbrock I would suggest the performer and cam or the RPM and cam, and 600 Edelbrock carb. Elc. Choke, good idle, vacuum, and dual plane with good torque and performance. The RPM might be a little large for your heads, but if you have 360 heads on it you can run them. Good luck.
 
Summit K6901 would also work well for you too. Be sure to put new and upgraded valve springs on as well.
 
318 heads with stock valve gear can take .450" lift, above that I would check retainer to guide clearance as the machining would vary even across the same head. Precision was not needed with maximum lifts of .390"-.410", above that they can get tight.
 
Are you replacing the valve springs?With the tallish back tire and most likely a tall gear out back I would even consider one size smaller than the 262.
 
Lunati VooDoo 10200701
Performer, Action Plus, or stock 340/360 4bbl intake
500 or 600 cfm carb
Good Manifolds or TTI/Dougs headers

Degree cam, use recommended valve springs, use a new quality chain and the Magnum chain tensioner.
 
Summit K6901 would also work well for you too. Be sure to put new and upgraded valve springs on as well.

goldduster318,

I have a 1971 Dart Swinger. It has a 318, Edelbrock LD4B intake, Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm carburetor, A904, and a factory 3.23:1 sure-grip 8 3/4" rear end.

I'm thinking of adding:

Summit K6900 cam & lifters:
http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=k6900

Summit timing chain and gears:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6603/applications/make/dodge/year/1971/engine-size/5-2l-318

With the Summit cam and lifters, what valve springs should be used?

Thanks for your opinion/help!
 
goldduster318,

I have a 1971 Dart Swinger. It has a 318, Edelbrock LD4B intake, Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm carburetor, A904, and a factory 3.23:1 sure-grip 8 3/4" rear end.

I'm thinking of adding:

Summit K6900 cam & lifters:
http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=k6900

Summit timing chain and gears:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6603/applications/make/dodge/year/1971/engine-size/5-2l-318

With the Summit cam and lifters, what valve springs should be used?

Thanks for your opinion/help!

You can use basically stock replacement 340 springs provided you don't have exhaust rotators (if the intake and exhaust retainers look the same, you're good). It would be the same with the K6901, not too different than a 340 HP engine.
 
Put the Hughes 318 Whiplash cam in it. The boy will love it. It will sound a LOT stouter than it is, but will also run good.
 
goldduster318,

I have a 1971 Dart Swinger. It has a 318, Edelbrock LD4B intake, Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm carburetor, A904, and a factory 3.23:1 sure-grip 8 3/4" rear end.

I'm thinking of adding:

Summit K6900 cam & lifters:
http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=k6900

Summit timing chain and gears:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6603/applications/make/dodge/year/1971/engine-size/5-2l-318

With the Summit cam and lifters, what valve springs should be used?

Thanks for your opinion/help!

THREAD HY-Jacker!!!!!
Start a new thread.

For your level experience, I always suggest that you buy matched stuff. I like Edelbrock I would suggest the performer and cam or the RPM and cam, and 600 Edelbrock carb. Elc. Choke, good idle, vacuum, and dual plane with good torque and performance. The RPM might be a little large for your heads, but if you have 360 heads on it you can run them. Good luck.

Normally I call this reply good common sense except it isn't good advice since the Edelbrck Performer cam is ultra lame and there RPM cam is a bit overly aggressive for the current performance level sought.
The "Matches" package is a great gimmick from Edelbrock. Walk away from it.

This is a father-son project (I'm the father). The boy will be driving it around town this spring and summer, cruising and I hope to eventually get the wife in it for some longer trips. Looking for cool with a little performance uptick, nothing crazy. Want the classic hot rod rumble too but don't want it to be stalling out. But I'm not in for a stall converter. Don't know gear ratios but it's a small, stock rear-end, nothing special. Running 225/70R15 on the back.

Thanks for the help!

I'm glad you know where you want to go with this project. I'll have to agree that a cam like the Comp XE262H is right about what you want to use. Lunati's similar cam is also a very good one to consider.

That muscle car sound comes from the cams centerline and opening/closing point as well as rate of lift and ....... To make it simple, a cam on a 110C/L will have "That sound" your looking for.
An intake duration under [email protected] is what you want to keep the stock converter. I ran an old Crane Hyd. (216/228 @.050) on a 112 C/L with exhaust lift @ .480, no head work at all. Dead stock 318 heads from '79 & J heads.
 
The Comp XE262 or Lunati 10200701 that Dano recommended are both good cams for your intended use. The Lunati is just slightly smaller but ground on a 108 lobe center so it'll idle about the same as the slightly larger XE262 cam but probably make some more torque to get you out of the hole quicker when spirited driving. I have also heard good reports on the Hughes whiplash cam RustyRatRod recommended. It'll idle more like a hot rod than the other 2 and still make good power without having to change the torque converter but it probably won't get great fuel mileage. If fuel mileage is much of a concern the Lunati is what I'd go with

The biggest thing about a flat tappet cam is to make sure and follow the break-in procedure to a T and always use oil with a good amount of ZDDP in it. Also make sure you use the recommended valve springs. If these things aren't followed it can lead to a destroyed cam (and possibly engine)
 
you do realize your fuel mileage is going down with other than stock cam right???

That's not always the case especially when the engine is a 70's smog era engine. The cams they used in that period were sometimes installed retarded to help emissions and they were also real lazy profiles. In the late 80's I bought a real nice looking 74 Chevy Monte Carlo with a 350 2 barrel. Even driving it real easy it was an absolute pig on gas. Best I ever got with it was 11 mpg. I installed a performer intake and 600 holley thinking it might do better than the 2 barrel but it didn't help. I then installed a XE262 cam and was amazed at the power improvement and it got nearly 5 mpg better on gas
 
Damn straight on that cam/mileage issue!
 
THREAD HY-Jacker!!!!!
Start a new thread.



Normally I call this reply good common sense except it isn't good advice since the Edelbrck Performer cam is ultra lame and there RPM cam is a bit overly aggressive for the current performance level sought.
The "Matches" package is a great gimmick from Edelbrock. Walk away from it.



I'm glad you know where you want to go with this project. I'll have to agree that a cam like the Comp XE262H is right about what you want to use. Lunati's similar cam is also a very good one to consider.

That muscle car sound comes from the cams centerline and opening/closing point as well as rate of lift and ....... To make it simple, a cam on a 110C/L will have "That sound" your looking for.
An intake duration under [email protected] is what you want to keep the stock converter. I ran an old Crane Hyd. (216/228 @.050) on a 112 C/L with exhaust lift @ .480, no head work at all. Dead stock 318 heads from '79 & J heads.

Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack or offend anyone. I just thought since the OP and I have similar cars/ambitions I could "tag-along".
 
Just semi joking. No real worries. But sometimes threads take a weird turn and the original poster never gets answered and becomes second banana if he is lucky.
 
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