What camshaft spec for 425 hp

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PRH said:
I’d put a solid in it, if for no other reason than to know I won’t have control issues resulting from underperforming hyd lifters.
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I know hundreds of juice cams get installed by members here every year but there sure seems to be a lot of lifter issues. With a good set of adjustable rockers and a solid lifter cam, maintenance is a once a year thing. (if that depending how much you drive and how hard you drive it)
 
rumblefish360 said:
When you ran that Crower cam, how heavy was your car?
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Some where around 3400 with a full tank.

The cam I was told was just a comp 218/218. I know the guy who ported those 318 heads as I take my stuff to him to have it flowed and he verified the details but eluded to the fact it had "much less" valve than my 1.9 which to me is code for stock. This guys lets very little out about what he does but CHI carries a head with his port design so he obviously knows what he's doing.

Looking at the thread on Mike becks cam change he went from a 216/228 to a 234/242 and didn't really pick up the ET. So what's going on there?

mikelbeck said:
he rest of the combo:

'73 Duster, 3120 pounds with my fat *** in it.
360+030, around 9.5:1, shaved and ported X heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM, Holley 750HP, 727, PTC 9.5" converter, 8-1/4 with 3.91 gears.

Previously the best 60' was a 1.69, on my 2nd run on this day the 60' was a 1.67 (I think, I don't have the slip in front of me).
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You would think he has everything to run a whole lot quicker but it didn't.
 
WOW! Good thread hunting. Holy moly!
I can’t answer the question though. I also have not seen Mike in years. He busy doing the right with family life.


PRH said:
I’d put a solid in it, if for no other reason than to know I won’t have control issues resulting from underperforming hyd lifters.
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And RPM
 
rumblefish360 said:
WOW! Good thread hunting. Holy moly!
I can’t answer the question though. I also have not seen Mike in years. He busy doing the right with family life.
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Good on him. Here's the car for sale and a complete breakdown of what he had in it.

1973 Plymouth Duster Bracket Racer

Chrysler 360 Engine .030 over
Milodon Oil Pump & Pickup
Federal Mogul H116CP pistons
Lunati Voodoo 234/242 @ .050 .513/.533 lift cam
Crane Roller Rockers
Smith Brothers pushrods

MSD 6A Ignition
MSD Blaster 2 Coil
MSD Distributor
Chrysler iron heads ported by BJR Racing
2.02 Mopar intake valves
1.60 Mopar exhaust valves
around 52cc chambers

Edelbrock Air-Gap Intake
Holley 750HP Carb
Carter High Volume mechanical fuel pump

Moroso Electric Water Pump
Perma-Cool Transmission Cooler
Mr. Gasket 16" Electric Fan

Ran best of 12.21 @ 111 MPH.
 
PG Duster said:
How do you know if it’s a hyd roller with out removing the intake Manifold?
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Pull the distributor and you might be able to see the dog bones, spider, and rollers. Might need some good lighting and a mirror or maybe pull the valve cover and catch a glimpse,
 
12many said:
Pull the distributor and you might be able to see the dog bones, spider, and rollers. Might need some good lighting and a mirror or maybe pull the valve cover and catch a glimpse,
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Ok, good idea. I will try that.
 
PG Duster said:
It’s in the trans shop now getting a 727 trans installed in place of the 904 that let go. When I get it back I have to take the valve covers off and look at the rocker arms. How do you know if it’s a hyd roller with out removing the intake Manifold? The seller could be wrong about who’s camshaft it is. That’s why I was trying to get the cam spec. I lost touch of the the seller, he was supposed to send me the cam spec once he found it.
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Don't forget. You're gonna need to get your driveshaft length altered.
 
PG Duster said:
It’s in the trans shop now getting a 727 trans installed in place of the 904 that let go. When I get it back I have to take the valve covers off and look at the rocker arms. How do you know if it’s a hyd roller with out removing the intake Manifold? The seller could be wrong about who’s camshaft it is. That’s why I was trying to get the cam spec. I lost touch of the the seller, he was supposed to send me the cam spec once he found it.
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Ooooh, bummer....Just FYI, switching to the 727 from a 904 will slow the car down some (1-3 tenths of a second from what I understand). Not saying that you can't go fast with a 727...heck, that is what I use, and my car boogies, but when you start looking for every last bit of ET you can squeeze out of a combo (if you are into that sort of thing) you will be wishing you stayed with the 904.
 
Ottmundr said:
Don't forget. You're gonna need to get your driveshaft length altered.
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Thank you, I had a driveshaft built for it with 727 trans.
flyfish said:
Ooooh, bummer....Just FYI, switching to the 727 from a 904 will slow the car down some (1-3 tenths of a second from what I understand). Not saying that you can't go fast with a 727...heck, that is what I use, and my car boogies, but when you start looking for every last bit of ET you can squeeze out of a combo (if you are into that sort of thing) you will be wishing you stayed with the 904.
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My 904 let go and my friends trans shop had a built 727 and made me a deal that was hard to refuse. I know the 904 trans most likely be best for quicker et, but sometimes money talks.

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flyfish said:
Ooooh, bummer....Just FYI, switching to the 727 from a 904 will slow the car down some (1-3 tenths of a second from what I understand). Not saying that you can't go fast with a 727...heck, that is what I use, and my car boogies, but when you start looking for every last bit of ET you can squeeze out of a combo (if you are into that sort of thing) you will be wishing you stayed with the 904.
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flyfish said:
Ooooh, bummer....Just FYI, switching to the 727 from a 904 will slow the car down some (1-3 tenths of a second from what I understand). Not saying that you can't go fast with a 727...heck, that is what I use, and my car boogies, but when you start looking for every last bit of ET you can squeeze out of a combo (if you are into that sort of thing) you will be wishing you stayed with the 904.
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I deliberately chose a 727 for my small block build as long term, I am going to a B block. I will save money and aggravation by not having to monkey with drive shaft length.
 
Ottmundr said:
I deliberately chose a 727 for my small block build as long term, I am going to a B block. I will save money and aggravation by not having to monkey with drive shaft length.
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Funny, I actually did something similar years ago because I was coming from a big block build that didn't pan out and I needed a new trans for my 318/904 combo. I pulled my 904 and put in a used 727 with the converter that I had already purchased for the big block (I was pinching penny's at the time and didn't know better). Didn't realize I would need a new drive shaft...Now, 25+ years later I still run a 727 because I have too much invested in it, and I don't want to drop a pile-O-money to convert back to a 904.
 
flyfish said:
Funny, I actually did something similar years ago because I was coming from a big block build that didn't pan out and I needed a new trans for my 318/904 combo. I pulled my 904 and put in a used 727 with the converter that I had already purchased for the big block (I was pinching penny's at the time and didn't know better). Didn't realize I would need a new drive shaft...Now, 25+ years later I still run a 727 because I have too much invested in it, and I don't want to drop a pile-O-money to convert back to a 904.
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I truly understand, I have invested in a swap to 727 trans and there is more money involved. Maybe I should have stayed with the 904, to late now Lol. I thought it would cost less to build a 727 and install it, then beefing up a 904.
 
Hay guys I finally made it to the Drag strip, my combination went 12.90s-12.80 at 104-105 mph. With 1.80 60 ft. For what I have is that respectable?
 
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PG Duster said:
Hay guys I finally made it to the Drag strip, my combination went 12.90s-12.80 at 104-105 mph. With 1.80 60 ft. For what I have is that respectable?
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I say it’s a respectable start. Now you work on multiple areas. Don’t be looking to change actual parts (other than carb jets, shooters) From my first couple initial runs to before I started changing parts I went from 8.05/8.02 @86.5mph runs to about 7.85@88mph simply by rear tire pressure, snubber and pinion angle, timing and carb adjustments (jetting, pump shot, etc) Also how I launched off the line took dialing in. From Off idle to trying various rpm launches. I’ll guesstimate you could whittle at it into the 12.60’s @ 107 or so simply by test and tuning. You have to work at it though to improve track time slips. Of get it to run seemingly great on the street, just strike a balance that doesn’t require veering too far away from street friendly oriented setup. My take
 
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PG Duster said:
I have a 1974 plymouth Duster with me in the car it weighs 3500 lbs, with a .30 over 360 magnum 9.1 cr. Edelbrock airgap intake manifold, Holley 750 carburetor, Headers, MSD ignition system, engine quest cylinder heads with 2.02” intake valves, stock bottom end, the transmission is a 727 automatic, with a 3500 stall dice converter, 8 3/4 sure grip rear end with 3:91 gears, Calvert Caltrac bars, springs, and 9 way adjustable rear shocks, 275/60 15 drag radials. What camshaft will I need to make about 425 hp and 12 seconds et in 1/4 mile with my combination ? Your suggestions would help me a lot. This will be a street strip car.
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Look at it like this... Many cams will do that.
Then look at it like this... race cars can run 12 in the 1/4 easier and with less power then many street cars..

Just get close to your goal and primarily focus on the setting up the car.
 
If it were me, i would put a serious camshaft and convertor in the car. Those two things alone( assuming you run either a shorter tire or more gear) should get the car in the very low 12’s. At least.
My car started out not unsimilar to yours. Bone stock 360, stock eddie heads. 750, m1 single plane, 4500 8 inch vert. 4.10 gear, 727, 240ish@50 comp solid cam. 275 bias tire..28 by 10
Ran 12.23@109 first time i ever took it out.
Swapped to airgap, 5000 vert, 260/264 Howard solid, minor porting of heads( stage 1 type deal) milled heads 30 thou and ran 028 head gasket to up compression on the 360 to get it around 10 to 1
Couple outings after the above changes…11.26 @ 118.40.. typically in the 11.40’s to around 11.50 in summer air.
Cam and convertor are everything in a stock stroke smallblock….at least its always been what i key on. Mine was/is a street strip car as well
 
B3422w5 said:
If it were me, i would put a serious camshaft and convertor in the car. Those two things alone( assuming you run either a shorter tire or more gear) should get the car in the very low 12’s. At least.
My car started out not unsimilar to yours. Bone stock 360, stock eddie heads. 750, m1 single plane, 4500 8 inch vert. 4.10 gear, 727, 240ish@50 comp solid cam. 275 bias tire..28 by 10
Ran 12.23@109 first time i ever took it out.
Swapped to airgap, 5000 vert, 260/264 Howard solid, minor porting of heads( stage 1 type deal) milled heads 30 thou and ran 028 head gasket to up compression on the 360 to get it around 10 to 1
Couple outings after the above changes…11.26 @ 118.40.. typically in the 11.40’s to around 11.50 in summer air.
Cam and convertor are everything in a stock stroke smallblock….at least its always been what i key on. Mine was/is a street strip car as well
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I like what you're saying.
Now change it to 4 spd car.
 
Wow, thanks you guy's, I have a good base line to start with. I will work with what I have and make sure it’s tuned. Before I buy a camshaft. I don’t know what cam is in it. It’s has a 750 vacuum secondary with pro form center body. A few times on the launch at the track it popped through the carb. I’m using a .033 primary shooter with the Green Accelerator pump cam in the number 1 position and 72 jets in the Primary and 82 in a secondary. Any Suggestions?

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12many said:
I say it’s a respectable start. Now you work on multiple areas. Don’t be looking to change actual parts (other than carb jets, shooters) From my first couple initial runs to before I started changing parts I went from 8.05/8.02 @86.5mph runs to about 7.85@88mph simply by rear tire pressure, snubber and pinion angle, timing and carb adjustments (jetting, pump shot, etc) Also how I launched off the line took dialing in. From Off idle to trying various rpm launches. I’ll guesstimate you could whittle at it into the 12.60’s @ 107 or so simply by test and tuning. You have to work at it though to improve track time slips. Of get it to run seemingly great on the street, just strike a balance that doesn’t require veering too far away from street friendly oriented setup. My take
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I agree, with what you said.
 
Are those heads ported? I agree with the ratty one that you don't need 425HP to go 12s, but IMO you need the heads ported to see 425HP.
 
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