Not too long ago I found 32 of them on ebay -$0.99 per - made me feel good.
What Champion Plug ru Using in you 340?
- Thread starter 340inabbody
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Turk,
Just shows how dumb/ignorant you are if see nothing wrong with post #66. Easier starts with copper plugs comes from the bettrer heat conductivity, NOT because copper is softer, which is what the poster of post ##66 was suggesting.
Just shows how dumb/ignorant you are if see nothing wrong with post #66. Easier starts with copper plugs comes from the bettrer heat conductivity, NOT because copper is softer, which is what the poster of post ##66 was suggesting.
I’ll say this. I NEVER EVER said the ELECTRODE is copper. EVER.
If you had a clue you’d know what I’m saying is correct and that’s this:
The material for the CENTER WIRE is not the same comparing Champion, NGK and Autolite plugs in that order, Champion being the softest and autolite the hardest.
Get it yet?
That’s why I made 13 pulls yesterday on an engine and I didn’t spark mark a single plug.
I know for a FACT that it takes about 9-10 pulls on my ignition to spark mark an NGK and 5-6 pulls to see it on a Champion plug.
Spark mark is one way (just ONE so you don’t get confused) to evaluate ignition system power.
It’s well known that a plug with a center wire that is softer will fire more often under suboptimal chamber conditions than a plug with a harder center wire.
Which is why guys ***** about Champions wearing out so fast. They are the softest of the three brands we are discussing.
Which was the whole point of my talking about it. Most guys don’t use enough ignition. Since it’s damned expensive to data log misfires very few do it. And misfires occur far more than most people realize.
But the information is out there.
Once again, I never said the center wire is copper. And you know it.
I’ll say this again because I know you.
I don’t suggest to anyone to use rare earth metal electrodes. There is a reason they are made in small diameter and it’s because it’s so hard it’s hard to get them to light.
I wouldn’t have said a word in this thread except the OP says he’s 12:1 and I knew there’d be guys who either don’t read the whole thread, or clowns like you who skip most posts but find mine and you start making **** up.
At 12:1, and I assume pump gas because the OP didn’t say otherwise his tune up window is far tighter than someone at 9:1 or even 10:1.
Look at how many guys dug out their FSM’s and catalogs “proving” that a 12 or 9 Champion was the plug to use.
They’d be wrong.
So once again you are talking right out of your ***.
Edit: if you notice in post 66 I didn’t say a word. If you want to ***** about my post try 71. I wasn’t clear in that because I said the NGK was also a copper core, which the plug I’m talking about does. But the core material has ZERO effect on the center electrode and what it’s made of. We all KNOW the CORE is copper. Not the center wire and ground strap.
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9secRR
Well-Known Member
NGK is all i use.
What Champion Plug ru Using in you 340?
none, i only use ngk.
To all the members here, I agree 100 %
A56
Street Survivor
Because their opinions and choices matter. So if it's beyond you, so be it.
I explained it many times in this very thread.
And if you paid me to tune your engine it would get Champions. When I was done I’d take them back.
Sadly, it looks like Champion is getting out of the racing plug business and is doing OE type junk so I need to find an alternative.
Just stupid.
Please pardon my not reading all the posts but I never saw at least on the first 2 pages what the next cool plug is below an N12YC or RN12YC. It is RN11YC. Then 10 then 9. Delco and Autolites are generally 3 heat ranges per plug number. Champion and others fill in the gap with tighter heat steps. I think that's why people ran Champions because you could dial it in better for max power. I don't know anybody back in the day who would run a foreign plug in a domestic engine. That said people like Delco and Autolite in street cars BECAUSE of the broad heat range in any given plug. Champions aren't bad, they are just temperamental because of there narrow heat range . At least that's what I have found.
Fuel is a big factor in choosing the right heat range, most will find a step hotter from yesteryear is required.
EXACTLY. I’m glad some people are getting it.
That much compression and pump gas makes the tuneup window very small.
True. But those plugs have a 13/16 hex so they won’t fit any aluminum head and there may be some aftermarket iron heads I forget.
I don’t know why Champion doesn’t take all those N series plugs, eliminate them and make them C series.
Same heat ranges from the N12 down to the N2 and just use the 5/8 hex shell.
I’m sure somewhere in the shop I have a 13/16 plug socket but I haven’t used that thing is a decade or more.
Tuning is mediocre at best, just getting by and leaving power on the table.
There is no tuning guru convincing me otherwise.
We will see this week.
I’m putting my trash back on the pump today and it’s not coming off u til I test everything I want or it ***** itself all over the shop floor, which is a real probability.
If it survives I’ll post some of the numbers.
Not arguing about RN12 vs RC12, Original poster asked about N12YC. He must have iron heads.
I have faith in ye, you've been tweeking on that engine for what seems like eternity.
I get it. My point was once you get down to the RC9 there isn’t a colder plug in that configuration.
Everyone can use a 5/8 hex plug, but not everyone can use a 13/16 hex.
Champion could have saved a ton of money (I could be wrong though) had they just made everything in a 5/8 hex.
At least an eternity!
I jacked myself up and bent a couple of valve so I pulled the heads. Which won’t come out in the car because head studs.
So the engine came out.
Then I looked at the home and the rings and they looked like crap.
So back to the hone and new rings. And I had the pistons coated by Line2line.
Then my bro’s bought me a tunnel ram so I sold the BLP BX4 and bought two ATM 1.410 x 1.750 builders carbs (roughly 800 CFM) and Mark Whiteners most excellent boosters.
Then somehow a dyno showed up at my house in 2020 and that thing has been a time burglar and a very steep learning curve.
It’s one thing to run a dyno, it’s a WHOLE OTHER THING owning one of these things. It will find ways to do things you’d never think of. It’s like a AA/FC. It breaks sitting out there by itself.
About every time I had some time to work on my engine I had customers stuff to do so I’ve been putting my trash off.
Now it’s time.
It’s either going to run (as one of my friends says) like a striped assed ape or its going to end up with the crank on the floor.
TheRacerDave
Well-Known Member
Just for reference, and not saying you can actually get these anymore, but here is Champion's performance plug chart from 2000. They have the plugs listed in the format <stock no.>/<plug no.> Yellow highlighted are 5/8" hex; green is 13/16" hex.
I have that chart too. The 9 (like it is here) is the coldest street plug and the hottest “race” plug.
Back when Champion had a dedicated engineer you could get on the phone and who was at every NHRA national event, you could call him and learn things.
Even though that 9 is shown here as a “race” plug, it’s not really.
There are several construction factors that differ between a street plug and a race plug.
One of these factors is how tight (or loose depending on your perspective) the center wire is in the porcelain.
Depending on the application, the center wire is fitted looser in a race plug than a street plug. Because the center wire (electrode) gets hot and grows faster than the porcelain does, they leave more room for it to grow. Being in the two step is cooling the plug that doesn’t fire so it’s colder. Then you get off the two step and the load and heat escalators very quickly. If the center wire is too tight it will pop the porcelain right off the plug.
The exception to that is the fine wire race plugs. They are tighter, like a street plug. And I don’t remember why now, but it is.
I know this because I worked on a twin plug, blown gas NHRA Comp car.
One set of plugs was a standard race plug and the other was a fine wire race plug.
We did that because he didn’t have a magneto and it was certainly hurting for ignition.
On the two step it would cool the plugs and off the two step the fine wire plugs would blow the porcelain off.
That cost me money because it was my idea and it would have worked if there wasn’t a two step.
I called Champion and that’s when I learned this little fact.
So I NEVER use a fine wire plug (Champion) in anything with a two step. I just run more ignition and a regular center wire plug.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Does Champion make an 11 or 10? If so, why are people talking about them like it's either a 12 or 9?
They do, but it’s a 13/16 hex and so many guys are running aluminum heads they can’t use that.
They need the 5/8 hex.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
So, they don't make an RC11YC or RC10YC? That's lame.
Yes it is. Very lame.
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