What common issues to look for when buying
- Thread starter badger68
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I always start on my back. If the frame is rusty and gone, so am I 
63 dart convertible? make sure it have every.single.tiny.itsty.bitsy.piece of trim and specific convertible pieces on it that it's supposed to and none of it is missing and you're happy with the shape that it's in.
check for rust, especially at the front spring hangars, top well and back thru the trunk. make sure the doors align and close right-- the strikers aren't are blowed out of the body and the hinges all wasted.
if it's a slant, you're probably okay. but if it's a V8 look for obvious signs of hackery and bobo work.
a lot of stuff for the early cars (pre 67) is specific to body and year, NLA and can be difficult to track down. a lot of stuff isn't repopped or made for the early cars as well-- ex: if the dash is wasted you're gonna be seeking out a used one or going with a custom panel and aftermarket gauges.
check for rust, especially at the front spring hangars, top well and back thru the trunk. make sure the doors align and close right-- the strikers aren't are blowed out of the body and the hinges all wasted.
if it's a slant, you're probably okay. but if it's a V8 look for obvious signs of hackery and bobo work.
a lot of stuff for the early cars (pre 67) is specific to body and year, NLA and can be difficult to track down. a lot of stuff isn't repopped or made for the early cars as well-- ex: if the dash is wasted you're gonna be seeking out a used one or going with a custom panel and aftermarket gauges.
@Elmer-FN-Fudd may have some input !
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Underneath, as mentioned. I'll add to check the rear torsion bar anchors @ the trans crossmember, and the top of the frame rails at the upper control arm mounts.
Puddles of mystery fluid anywhere on the guy's driveway or garage floor. Might have been this car, maybe not...
Dry brake drums/backing plates, especially at the bottoms. Could be brake fluid, could be axle lube if they're wet. Check for a solid feeling brake pedal- nothing "mushy" or "slowly sinking"...
Look over the wiring harness for excessive electrical tape or crimp connectors. Sixty year old cars have had a lot of hands on them.
Missing parts of ANY kind.
You didn't say how it's being presented- as a restored car, as a project, or something in between. Anything that doesn't strike you as being what you were told is going to be just the tip of the iceberg.
Ask to see receipts or pictures of any claimed work that was done.
Take a magnet, wrapped in a chamois (so you don't scratch paint). Check the bodywork, especially at the front doglegs and behind the rear wheels.
Most of all, I don't want to see you on here later saying "I took his word, he SEEMED like an honest guy"... NEVER assume anything about the person or how the work was done. Look for/ask for proof. If work was done by a shop, ask for names and references and check them out.
And if you're interested, make what you think is a fair offer. Don't lowball the guy, or pay an exorbitantly inflated price. Be fair, but be prepared to walk away if necessary.
Puddles of mystery fluid anywhere on the guy's driveway or garage floor. Might have been this car, maybe not...
Dry brake drums/backing plates, especially at the bottoms. Could be brake fluid, could be axle lube if they're wet. Check for a solid feeling brake pedal- nothing "mushy" or "slowly sinking"...
Look over the wiring harness for excessive electrical tape or crimp connectors. Sixty year old cars have had a lot of hands on them.
Missing parts of ANY kind.
You didn't say how it's being presented- as a restored car, as a project, or something in between. Anything that doesn't strike you as being what you were told is going to be just the tip of the iceberg.
Ask to see receipts or pictures of any claimed work that was done.
Take a magnet, wrapped in a chamois (so you don't scratch paint). Check the bodywork, especially at the front doglegs and behind the rear wheels.
Most of all, I don't want to see you on here later saying "I took his word, he SEEMED like an honest guy"... NEVER assume anything about the person or how the work was done. Look for/ask for proof. If work was done by a shop, ask for names and references and check them out.
And if you're interested, make what you think is a fair offer. Don't lowball the guy, or pay an exorbitantly inflated price. Be fair, but be prepared to walk away if necessary.
@RAT ROD AL be careful of those early A body convertibles, I was given one for free, it was 99 percent complete but a total rust bucket as it had sat outside for 20+ years. From what I've read it is a very common problem with those older A body convertibles. though mine was pretty solid on the undercarriage and looked good from 50 feet away, there was too much rust for me to deal with as I have never done body work. Alas, someone gave me an offer I couldn't refuse and it was sold this past weekend. I have pictures of it posted in Member Restorations forum under 64 dodge dart what to do!
mine was a 64 Dart GT convertible
I appreciate all the info. I guess i am tossing her in the air to have a peek.
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
Everyone's input is great here in helping you, but one of the most important things to consider when buying any car is the paperwork.
Tread lightly when you buy any vehicle without a solid title etc.
It can turn a good project car into a parts car no matter the condition unless you are willing to jump through major hoops.
Pictures and a price would go a long way here...
Tread lightly when you buy any vehicle without a solid title etc.
It can turn a good project car into a parts car no matter the condition unless you are willing to jump through major hoops.
Pictures and a price would go a long way here...
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The paperwork will depend on where you live. Here in Georgia, titling a 1963 car is not expected, and titling a car just a year older is not even possible. So check what your state needs there. My worst paperwork circus involved a title that wasn't missing, but had one signature and two names.
Others have mentioned the big things to look for - rust, missing trim, and sketchy repairs or mods. I have two other items to add:
Any original suspension bushings or engine / transmission mounts on it will need replacement. Getting new ones won't be much trouble though.
These cars originally had a single reservoir master cylinder. The later dual reservoir design is a direct bolt in except for needing new brake lines. You will want to do this before the original master cylinder leaks all its fluid while you are backing down a steep driveway and end up on the neighbors' property before you can stop. (Yes, that's exactly what happened to me...)
Others have mentioned the big things to look for - rust, missing trim, and sketchy repairs or mods. I have two other items to add:
Any original suspension bushings or engine / transmission mounts on it will need replacement. Getting new ones won't be much trouble though.
These cars originally had a single reservoir master cylinder. The later dual reservoir design is a direct bolt in except for needing new brake lines. You will want to do this before the original master cylinder leaks all its fluid while you are backing down a steep driveway and end up on the neighbors' property before you can stop. (Yes, that's exactly what happened to me...)
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