what des it take to stroke a 360 to 408?

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moper said:
The size of the engine isn't holding you back. The execution of the build is.
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Boy! Talk about the quote of the DAY! You couldda actually said this same thing to Chrysler regarding the 400 engine. LMAO. I mean....with a few tweaks, they will scream. I couldn't agree more. The actual difference in a drag car between an all 360 and an all out 408 I bet would be less than half a second. Course, when you're drag racin, that's like ten years. LOL
 
412 Stroker said:
Moper you said it best: "The size of the engine isn't holding you back. The execution of the build is. until you find out exactly what you have or don't I wouldn't put too much more into it, you might need to redo it after all, and at that point the 408 IMO would be the way to go.
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He hit it on the head, didn't he? Wisdom certainly shows around this place alot.
 
I know he took it all apart because when the cam went bad we found out that the pistons were too small cause the block was a used .30 over with a hone job instead of a fresh .30 over. so i had a whole new block done and a new cam put in. I hate the fact that i chose to go with getting a block built when originally i was planning on buying the 408 stroker from blueprint engines. it was 3699.00 and i have about 4000.00 into my motor having to redo another block.
 
tonyp1987 said:
I know he took it all apart because when the cam went bad we found out that the pistons were too small cause the block was a used .30 over with a hone job instead of a fresh .30 over. so i had a whole new block done and a new cam put in. I hate the fact that i chose to go with getting a block built when originally i was planning on buying the 408 stroker from blueprint engines. it was 3699.00 and i have about 4000.00 into my motor having to redo another block.
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Well from what i have been hearing about blueprint engines, your lucky you dont have one of those, After reading an article in Car Craft, Brian Hafliger from IMM engines http://www.immengines.com/ is the ONLY crate motor to buy from, the engine he built for Camero Craft, 408" with RHS heads was a monster, still came out close to 7000.00. Awsume article
 
Im debating on if i should run the xe268 cam or if i should sell it and buy one with a higher lift. Im just tired of not doing it right the first time. my buddy always telling me to "quit wiping before you poop".
 
Your $4,000 360 is better than blueprint engines stuff.

I know my 340 cost a little more but has better bearings, a old forged crank. No Chinese parts like crank and rods.

You need to tune and wind that 360 up. A 10 inch converter would be a start and you feel it. My tci streetfighter 10 inch feels pretty tight and is very felt on each up shift. A shift brings the rpms down to only 4,000 above the rated stall speed of 3,000 yet the torque increase is very noticeable over the so call high stall 340 converter.

The avs carb once jetted correct, and it should be close if not right on with manual choke 750 specs, should have the air valve secondary flap adjusted lighter until a bog. This is were the 10 inch 3,000+ stall converter lives. That spring can be adjusted pretty light now and the motor will make more hp.

So, 3.91 gears, a 10 inch converter and adjusting the secondaries to open faster should be a nice improvement. Then if you are still not happy go for the storker. Expect I might use 3.55 gears with a 408.

Too bad this cost $$
 
I still dont know if i should run a different cam with more lift. The heads are supposedly set up for over a .500 lift. I just dont want to put this cam in and find out i want more later.
 
Ok, so this build is a 360, with correctly sized pistons... That leaves the rest of the combo. I think the cam is a problem and from what you describe the valvetrain is probably appalling. I would start with the heads because the geometry on a Mopar is all determined by the valve job. I don't think if your shop did what you decribe in terms of setting up the valvetrain they should be used for anything further. I'd find a competent performance shop to check them out and fix what they inevitably will find. Replace the cam. The XE268 is a good choice in general but the XE274H would have been my first choice for a 360. Once you have the heads done and the cam ready, then get a set of checking pushrods and measure for the right length pushrods, and you're good to go. This engine should be able to do what you want for a little more investment. If you want to go bigger you can by all means, but you're basically planning to build an entire new engine when you talk overall cost.
 
ok so im stuck on what to do with the cam situation. i would like to run the highest amount of lift that i can get away with, but im not sure what that is. .477 lift is for the xe268h and then the xe284h has a .507 lift. does this sound about right if my head are ported and i have the heavy duty springs? is there anything else required to run that much lift? The guy that built my motor is telling me i need to replace the timing chain when i do the cam swap. the one in there has less than 5000 miles on it. Is this true?
 
Nevermind...The guy..For the money spent,you should be happy with a built 360.The guy not knowing pushrod length is just wrong.Take your engine to a performance shop and deal directly with the builder IMO.Have...The guy.. re and re your engine if you can,t do it yourself.Good luck.

P.S I love my 408,but had to pay for performance $$
 
yeah this is the same guy, but he doesnt work at a shop. he does it out of his garage.
 
You seem to have some time invested with him but the results are not promising. I also work out of my garage so I'm not down on hobby guys. I am one and I have my share of crap that happens. If you're having issues and he's recommending what you're saying I think it may be time to seek another opinion. The fact that you are posting leads me to think there's some doubt there.
If you are set in standing with him (I admire the loyalty) then he should be able to tell you what cam will work with the heads as they are currently sitting. Some quick items I would be concerned with... You need to have a thread or two, no more than that, showing under the rocker where the adjuster screw comes through. This should be how it is with the preload properly set on the lifters and the right length pushrods in use. So regardless of the cam, make sure he gets that right. The valve job sets the geometry on a mopar and the pushrods just connect the lifter and rocker. Too much adjuster under the rocker leads to lost lift and lots of instability that will hobble even milder cams. For sake of simplicity, I'd recommend the XE268 and get the valvetrain set up properly. Then see how it runs and move forward.
 
caferacerx said:
$$$$$$$$$
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^

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And probably lots of it.
 
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