what do tou think 408

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tblotske

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what do you think is is for hp and what will it run? 360 block 4" forged crank,ross 12-1 pistons,h beem rods,cast j heads 2.02 1.60 full ported flowed 285 at 600 lift,comp 555 solid cam,1.6 roller rockers,full balance, and can put 2oo hp of nitrouse to it. going in to a 69 dart that is mini tubbed with ladder bars and coil overs,727 trans,3500 bte converter,391 gears,and the car weighs 3450 with me in it and full of fluids? any ideas
 
hahah damn thats good maybe to even get a little more some indy heads (kinda pricey) yeh usually the 408 stroker kits can withstand 500 to 1000HP depending on the crank for a simple $200 dollar upgrade can make a huge difference. You probably need a huge carb 1050 CFM maybe but everything sounds good darts make some pretty mean cars combine that with a 4-speed maybe and your going to need a bigger torque converter to transfer the power hope that helps sounds great though
 
i forgot to put in the carb is a 850 proform and intake is a super victor that was port matched. im looking for high 10-low 11 in the 1/4 mile
 
thats good flow for j heads, i would say somewhere about 500 hp, with that gear and carb low 11.40's to maybe low 11's
 
I just ran my 408/904 in my 66 Dart for the first time and ran 11.32@120mph,60ft was 1.65.Mind you still have some adjustments to do and should make 10,s no problem.Eagle 4inch crank,H beams,10.5 to 1,Eddy heads P&P,1.5 Pro Magnum rockers,.631 lift solid roller,M1 intake,AED850HO carb,all MSD 6AL.Tranny is 904 with 8 inch Coan 4500 stall,3.91 gears,1 7/8 tube fenderwell hedders,275/50/15 MT drag radials.8 pt. cage,frame connectors,QA-1 adj. shocks.Now to just get it to hook!LOL
car pics 66 Dart 207.jpg
Oh with the 200 shot of the juice,low 10,s for sure.

car pics 66 Dart 207.jpg
 
tblotske said:
what do you think is is for hp and what will it run? 360 block 4" forged crank,ross 12-1 pistons,h beem rods,cast j heads 2.02 1.60 full ported flowed 285 at 600 lift,comp 555 solid cam,1.6 roller rockers,full balance, and can put 2oo hp of nitrouse to it. going in to a 69 dart that is mini tubbed with ladder bars and coil overs,727 trans,3500 bte converter,391 gears,and the car weighs 3450 with me in it and full of fluids? any ideas
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If it doesn't run at least low 11's something is wrong..with a 200 shot of nitrous 9's...
 
thats what im hoping for 9s on gas just to shut some people up about there fords. and running cast heads
 
Be careful with that stock 360 block. I'm running one and mine is 600HP without nitrous. The stock 360 block is not made for what we are doing and its only a matter of time before you break a cap. That's why i'm getting all the parts now for a R3 W9 motor.
 
JMHO,

I think you will probably see high 11's on the motor and high to mid 10's on the bottle....the converter would be ok for the bottle, but will kill your NA times...same with the manifold...doesn't match the rest of the parts...ok for N2O, NA it will suck due to not enough gear/converter.

Also, ditto on the stock block and 600 hp comment...if you really can muster up 500hp NA (which I think will be closer to 450 ish) and spray 200, you might split the block. To have good reliability at 600+ hp, you need to pick up an after market block...just my 2 cents.
 
OK you asked so I'm going to tell you. This is at least the third post where I've seen guys say their heads flow *** at .600 or .650 lift and they stick a cam in it with .050 less lift. Subtract the lash and your are around .070-.080 below the heads potential. Why? Get a cam that will allow your heads to flow to their potential. And your converter is way too tight. 4200-5000 would be more like it.
 
tblotske said:
thats what im hoping for 9s on gas just to shut some people up about there fords. and running cast heads
Click to expand...

I'll stand by my estimates having a 416 with less cam,less comp.and less intake then your running going... 11.0's all day :-D:-D question wasn't how long it would stay together..
 
im not that far off with my lift as im using 1.6 rockers it sould be about 587-592 for lift. is it right or am i wrong.if im wrong i will get another cam. but the converter was set up for the car and motor so it might have more stall than that
 
if the convertor was set-up for a 340-360, it will stall more with the big motor , from what i been told, sounds like a 11.30 set-up,it needs to hook.
 
well only a few people think that this will be a 10 second ride without the squirt. seams odd that my intake dont match the rest of the combo as it was advised by mike from mrl. that it would be better for my combo. there is a 416 running 10.50-60 with not mutch divfferent setup then mine
 
tblotske said:
well only a few people think that this will be a 10 second ride without the squirt. seams odd that my intake dont match the rest of the combo as it was advised by mike from mrl. that it would be better for my combo. there is a 416 running 10.50-60 with not mutch divfferent setup then mine
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I think the super victor is going to hurt you if the stall speed is below what Jones mentioned because that intake is probably going to hurt down low. I think it will be too much plenum volume. There are 3000 lb cars on here touching the 10s n/a with an rpm airgap DUAL PLANE! And the dual plane seems to pick up a lot down lower in the range to get these cars moving quicker.
I dont know if the car will be street driven more, or raced more but if it is driven more on the street, rethink the intake.

If you're gonna race it more, then the stall speed is going to probably have to be higher than that to take advantage.

Given the theoretical lift with the lobe you mention and the 1.6 rocker, I would go a bit smaller on the intake manny personally.

Smaller has been proven in a lot of cases to be better.
If you have a bit smaller carb to try also, I'd suggest you try that too once you get to test it. Same principle applies to carbs. I've seen 750 carbs making 600 hp, and they do it with a lot better response down low.

But you'll just have to try it out I guess. Sometimes (albeit rarely) what happens on the track defies the math. But it's usually due to the fact that something was left out of the math equation....
 
What do the heads flow at .200? .300? .400? IMO, 285 is huge for those heads and usually to get that the lower lift numbers start to suck. And that cam is good, but again like Guitar says... (-.020) for pushrod angles, (-.022) for lash, and you're down to .550, and that's only at max lift. With 260°@.050 w/1.5s I like the duration but that is a small cam for that static ratio and intake. I don't think you'll make any more than 500hp at the crank at best, and I think closer to 480 is more realistic. At 3400lbs and street trim you need a little over 600 to reach the 125mph mark and that's mid 10s. I think if it holds together (12:1 plus NO2 is getting marginal in terms of reliability for the LA head bolt design) you might get as fast as mid-low 10s. It's just too heavy (street car), and the parts are not quite matched.
 
well i cant find my flow sheets.they wernt to bad as far as i can remember.i also changed the gears to 430.and reweigh the car with me in it full of fuel it is 3120. i removed alot of the interier and heater box and wiper stuff.dose it look better. just looking for help. not trying to be a a$$
 
tblotske, Did you make a pass on motor and NOS yet just curious?I was just wondering?The Super Victor intake will be fine on that motor just for the fact that you need a lot of Plentum Volume for that cubic in motor no matter what people say.Ask me why I know!But the converter should be 4500-4800 stall for NOS and if you want to run just motor u need to go to 5000-5200 8in for the weight that your car is at now.I know of a 71 Valiant with a 408 same intake ported J heads solid cam foot braking at 2500 flashes at 5000rpm shift at 6700 and weight of 3100 ran 10.60's in the heat with a 60ft of 1.37-1.39 with Comp Eng. slide a link.
 

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