What do yall recommend?

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FlyingFalcon

FlyingFalcon

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Finishing up my brake swap soon. I switched to KH 4 piston disc brakes. Working on a budget, and I need to still buy rotors, brake lines, and brake pads. What do you guys suggest? Not looking for high performance, just reliability and price

Thanks FABO
 
FlyingFalcon said:
Finishing up my brake swap soon. I switched to KH 4 piston disc brakes. Working on a budget, and I need to still buy rotors, brake lines, and brake pads. What do you guys suggest? Not looking for high performance, just reliability and price

Thanks FABO
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Rotors I got from Rockauto. They were maybe $40/piece from what I recall. I think summit has some slotted rotors. I reused my old lines as they seemed fine, but I should have replaced them so I'm unsure. As for brake pads, I was not happy with the Raybestos ones from Rockauto.
 
MuuMuu101 said:
Rotors I got from Rockauto. They were maybe $40/piece from what I recall. I think summit has some slotted rotors. I reused my old lines as they seemed fine, but I should have replaced them so I'm unsure. As for brake pads, I was not happy with the Raybestos ones from Rockauto.
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Can I reuse my brake lines from drum brakes? I know I probably should replace them, but right now I'm just concerned with getting my car driving.
 
FlyingFalcon said:
Can I reuse my brake lines from drum brakes? I know I probably should replace them, but right now I'm just concerned with getting my car driving.
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I have no idea as my car came with KH brakes already, but I'd replace them for a better piece of mind.
 
Rockauto all the way. Just make sure you pay attention and order everything from the same warehouse or you'll any savings by paying a ton for shipping.
 
MuuMuu101 said:
I have no idea as my car came with KH brakes already, but I'd replace them for a better piece of mind.
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Quick research points to a no. I looked on Ebay, and thy all seemed really expensive. Hoping that its just Ebay. If not, it's going to set me back a ways.
 
FlyingFalcon said:
Can I reuse my brake lines from drum brakes? I know I probably should replace them, but right now I'm just concerned with getting my car driving.
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I would be more concerned about stopping. Brake lines are like $10 a piece.
Do it right, and get some new replacements.
 
I reused all the lines that were in good condition. Since I was installing an adjustable proportioning valve, that was the one line that had to have a short new line added. I recall having to make some double flares with the typical cheap tool. That's an excercise in patience. If your using a combo valve then no new hard lines should be needed.

From the hard line to the caliper - you must get new hoses of course. If you don't have the hard line from the caliper bracket to the caliper itself, that one is a bit of pain to make because the bends are tight. I just did one this year. Those might be worth buying if this isn't something you've done a bunch before.

Original tubes have a spiral armor/guard where they might get hit by rocks and junk. I like that feature.
 
Rotors - watch for the hat part of the casting kissing or hitting the caliper piston boots every rotation. I bought a pair of Bendix years ago that did that. Centrics and BW have or had ones with the hats machined. Might have come from the same mold as the Bendix and thats how they solved it, or maybe they just wanted a premium looking and better balanced final product. In any event, thats something to look out for.

Pads. D11 Some folks here posted they were very happy with EBC Red lining. It does need to be bedded in. I'm trying out Porterfield's R4S right now, but haven't put it to any real test.
Parts store, all I can suggest is try to find the best friction ratings in organic or semi-metalic. Edge code EE minimum, FF would be better.

Raysbestos used to have an FG rated lining for D11 pads but I haven't seen it for years. Their current? "Professional Grade" semi-metalic lining has an FF rating, but I don't think they offer it on D11. You can call and ask. I'm using it on my Grand Wagoneer and its very grippy. I think it would be good with the Kelsey Hayes 4 pistons and no booster.

If your not familiar with FMSI edge codes, the marking is to SAE Standard J866
The friction test is SAE J661. It may not be great, but it's better than nothing.
 
K-H rotors used to cost $100, but that changed a few years ago. I bought some for ~$22 (rockauto, recall). I don't even have K-H, but working on a custom idea for my 10" drum hubs & spindles. Racing pads might not be best for you since I read they don't grab well until they get hot.

My understanding is that the spiral wire on brake lines near the frame was not for protection, but rather so the tubes could be bent by hand without kinking. They just left it on. Might be the same for the calipers. If true, they must have had some big chimp-handed guys on the line, or they soon left w/ carpal tunnel problems.
 
I got nearly all of my brake parts from Finelines for under $200. KH Calliper hard lines, Front flexible stainless braided lines, left to right cross over line on the firewall, front to rear line from the proportioning valve to the diff, etc.
Great service, knowledgeable about A bodies and reasonably priced. Excellent quality and no fitment issues.
No use spending dollars on your car if you cant stop.
**If there is one area not to have a budget on, its brakes.** :)
 
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