What do you clean your block, crank other internals with in preparation for assembly
- Thread starter duster360
- Start date
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Glass bead.
Do all machine work.
Parts washer.
then soap and water.
Blow dry
spray off cheap carb cleaner.
Wipe all machined surfaces and bearings with laquer thinner and Dry them by hand with lint free cloth.
Use pipe cleaners in all oil galley's
Do all machine work.
Parts washer.
then soap and water.
Blow dry
spray off cheap carb cleaner.
Wipe all machined surfaces and bearings with laquer thinner and Dry them by hand with lint free cloth.
Use pipe cleaners in all oil galley's
I use a machine shop. Then I wash the piss out of the block with soap and water when I get it home.
Multiple cans of brake cleaner gets expensive. I've used kerosene mostly and followed it with brake cleaner aerosol. A container of kerosene large enough to dunk the parts in isn't cheap today either but.. You can wash parts in it today and again later since foreign materials will settle to the bottom.
moparlover
Well-Known Member
i always take mine to a machine shop for a hot tank bath 
then have them check the cylinders. have it bored if needed and honed on the spot.
that part doesnt cost much really, and is well worth it.
same with the crankshaft... they can check and see if it's good to use, or if the journals need cleaning up
pistons, i've always used new ones, and had them balanced with the rods and crankshaft.
then have them check the cylinders. have it bored if needed and honed on the spot.that part doesnt cost much really, and is well worth it.
same with the crankshaft... they can check and see if it's good to use, or if the journals need cleaning up
pistons, i've always used new ones, and had them balanced with the rods and crankshaft.
I pop out all the freeze plugs and use a garden hose and long screwdrivers to flush out the water jacket and loosen any sludge that has accumulated in there. Then go through the oil passages and use a straightened wire coat hanger to make sure all of the passages are not clogged/blocked up. Then blast it dry with compressed air. Then spray the bores with penetration oil to prevent rust.
I would recommend finding another machine shop that doesn't piss in your block..... :wack:
Then you won't have to wash the piss out of it.....
After I get parts back from machinist, I double check bores in block and journals on crank to be sure all work has been done to proper specs. Most machinists do a pretty good job of cleaning parts. But , just before assembly, I will usually spray components down with Br kleen/ pts kleen. It's good insurance, and I only pay about 2.25 a can for it from my chemical supplier. I always clean crank and rod journels real good and check oil holes. Clean well with lint less cloth and Git Busy!!!
cudavert
DARTAHOLIC
I use block oil galley brushes, these little cheapy paint-brush things, Scotch-brite pads, Harbor Freight degreaser soap and a keen eye.
moper
Well-Known Member
Large parts (castings, crank, etc) get hadn washed with hot soapy (dish soap) water. Use engine cleaning brushes. Machined surfaces get hit with WD40, parts get bagged in clean (new) trash bags. Slammer stuff (rods, pistons, etc) get cleaned with laquer thinner and soft brushes, blwon dry with shop air. Then just before assembly brake cleaner and shop air. Bores are cleaned by hand with white paper towls and brake cleaner, wiping in direction of hone until the towel comes out clean. Once I start assembling I keep the garage heated or dehumidified depending on the time of year, and everything gets bagged/covered until I get back to it.
moper
Well-Known Member
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