WHAT do you do?

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6pak

6pak

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I rebuilt a 5.9 engine.
Bored 030 , new pistons, rings.
Polished crank, w new bearings.
New cam, lifters, etc. etc.
after going thru 2 sets of cracked heads, …. bought a pair from big name head Re-Man-fer.
Cool…
Everything is great. Until 100 miles into driving,
Valve spring breaks, drops valve,
Destroys piston, twists a rod, cracks cylinder wall, and all my effort has been reset.

Seems like I am getting SOME compensation from them. (sent a new set of heads right out).
Also Just got new gaskets, rod, 1 piston (that is a mis-match from the others) - and a “credit”???
My pistons are only sold in a set of 8.
When do I just bend over, wipe the tears and declare the screwing I am getting doesn’t hurt all that much?
 
First thing I'd do is "backtrack" to the piston manufacturer and see if they can supply single pistons. I know of NO head outfit that will guarantee against engine damage
 
Was it Odessa (Clearwater) Cylinder Head? They have a terrible reputation.
 
6pak said:
bought a pair from big name head Re-Man-fer.
Cool…
Click to expand...

This is what I dont do....

I trust my local machinist to check everything thoroughly before I let them near my other parts lol.
 
"About" the only "big" reman place I deal with is Allied Cylinder Head. Had good luck with them several times.
 
No names at this point.
When the engine locked up, I thought it was something I did.
When the valve cover came off, I realized it wasn’t me.

I think I have 7/8 an engine of spare parts.
 
HEY!
Merry Christmas!
Get off the computer and spend time w your family!

may Santa bring you high horsepower and gas milage!
 
From what I've seen and heard about reman'd or even new OOTB aftermarket heads, the valve guides are usually too tight. Sooner or later the valve seizes in the guide or the springs give out from too much/uneven loading. I brought a pair of SBM Edelbrock heads to my local machine shop/race engine builder, he took one look at them and said "Oh boy, these look like hell, they need EVERYTHING. Seats look terrible, guides are shot, casting quality isn't good" and on and on. The heads were used but AFAIK the previous owner just took them out of the box, bolted them on and ran them until his engine threw a rod out the block. One thing the shop did as a precautionary measure was install dual valve springs; the head porter guru who works there said they don't take chances with single springs anymore, too much risk of one breaking and dropping a valve. With duals at least if one spring breaks you have one spring left to keep the valve from falling into the cylinder. They also requested the full specs for the camshaft I was using and the valve spring specs provided by the cam manufacturer so they could select the correct ones for my application.

Only way to prevent any further bending-over-getting-screwed is to closely check and verify EVERY SINGLE PART you put into your engine. It is a lot of work but sadly these days it's rare to have engine parts for Mopars be in perfect shape ready to go fresh from the supplier unless maybe they're from a company that does ONLY Mopar stuff. I'm having that same shop I mentioned machine a 440 block and I will be getting 440Source Stealth heads for it; even though everyone I've found who uses them said they're in good shape OOTB I'm still going to drop them off at the shop for a full inspection. If they end up putting new cam bearings in I'll probably do the same with the camshaft even, oftentimes the journals are a tad oversize or the bearings are a tad undersize and it binds up; happened to me with a 360 I built years ago, new cam bearings installed and the camshaft barely went in all the way and seized up hard. Machine shop had to take the block back and chamfer/clearance the bearings to make it fit correctly.

For me it's just due diligence at this point. Any new engine build, I go into it with the assumption that every non-factory-OE part I get will need to be inspected and possibly modified to fit and work properly.
 
Last edited:
6pak said:
I rebuilt a 5.9 engine.
Bored 030 , new pistons, rings.
Polished crank, w new bearings.
New cam, lifters, etc. etc.
after going thru 2 sets of cracked heads, …. bought a pair from big name head Re-Man-fer.
Cool…
Everything is great. Until 100 miles into driving,
Valve spring breaks, drops valve,
Destroys piston, twists a rod, cracks cylinder wall, and all my effort has been reset.

Seems like I am getting SOME compensation from them. (sent a new set of heads right out).
Also Just got new gaskets, rod, 1 piston (that is a mis-match from the others) - and a “credit”???
My pistons are only sold in a set of 8.
When do I just bend over, wipe the tears and declare the screwing I am getting doesn’t hurt all that much?
Click to expand...
I dropped a valve on a .030 360 back in the 90's.It only had about 20 passes on it.It sucks for sure.
What style pistons are yours because I still have my remaining pistons.
 
Cool.
I get it. I “assumed” -

Santa (me) got me some SpeedMaster Heads for Christmas.
Certainly will not bolt on and run.
Rough finish, tight guides, and I’m replacing the guide seals jus so I can blame it on myself if they don’t oil.
 
But
Back on topic.

they seem to want to work w me. But, I’m still out.
- I’m a believer in “**** happens” - guess cause it’s always happening to me!
And It’s getting too cold to work in the driveway. Again.

* And may your New Year be best.
 
6pak said:
I rebuilt a 5.9 engine.
Bored 030 , new pistons, rings.
Polished crank, w new bearings.
New cam, lifters, etc. etc.
after going thru 2 sets of cracked heads, …. bought a pair from big name head Re-Man-fer.
Cool…
Everything is great. Until 100 miles into driving,
Valve spring breaks, drops valve,
Destroys piston, twists a rod, cracks cylinder wall, and all my effort has been reset.

Seems like I am getting SOME compensation from them. (sent a new set of heads right out).
Also Just got new gaskets, rod, 1 piston (that is a mis-match from the others) - and a “credit”???
My pistons are only sold in a set of 8.
When do I just bend over, wipe the tears and declare the screwing I am getting doesn’t hurt all that much?
Click to expand...

I have a 30 over 360 piston I have had for years and never used. If you want it, you can have it for postage.
upload_2021-12-24_19-47-43.jpeg
upload_2021-12-24_19-48-5.jpeg

upload_2021-12-24_19-47-43.jpeg
upload_2021-12-24_19-48-5.jpeg
 
The heads off my 1998 5.9 Magnum appear to have no cracks across the valve seats. I'm building a 408 with Trick Flow heads and intake. If you're interested, I can have them magged and pressure checked. I would sell them for the shipping costs. 113K miles on the motor. Let me know if you're interested. Paul.
 
You guys are helpful and generous.
Head shop sent me a piston. Not a match to the others, but I got one. They also sent a rod, set of rings, and a top end gasket set.
Also a replacement set of heads.
so I feel as though they are trying. LOL!
I haven’t taken the short block out yet, and don’t know if there is crank damage. The rod on the holed piston does look like it has a twist.
I’m not sure what Im going to do.
I think I just have a collection of spare parts.
This was practically a new stock roller engine and I don’t feel comfortable sleeving the block and running an odd piston.

Meanwhile in the weeks leading up, I’ve freshened up the LA engine that came out. I believe I will just put it in and worry about this one later.

Thanks for the offers,
I’m hoping for a Happier New Year
 
Keep plugging away, Brother. I have the stock rods, pistons, crank, and heads from a 1998 5.9. I'm willing to donate any parts to your cause. People on this site have been good to me over the years, and I'm willing to continue the effort. Please feel free to PM me if I can help you with your project. I only ask for shipping costs.
 
6pak said:
I rebuilt a 5.9 engine.
Bored 030 , new pistons, rings.
Polished crank, w new bearings.
New cam, lifters, etc. etc.
after going thru 2 sets of cracked heads, …. bought a pair from big name head Re-Man-fer.
Cool…
Everything is great. Until 100 miles into driving,
Valve spring breaks, drops valve,
Destroys piston, twists a rod, cracks cylinder wall, and all my effort has been reset.

Seems like I am getting SOME compensation from them. (sent a new set of heads right out).
Also Just got new gaskets, rod, 1 piston (that is a mis-match from the others) - and a “credit”???
My pistons are only sold in a set of 8.
When do I just bend over, wipe the tears and declare the screwing I am getting doesn’t hurt all that much?
Click to expand...
I'd be PISSED
 
BTW
If inspecting heads, …..
How would one find a valve spring that is going to break?
Obviously a gouge or nick in the spring, or one that is not rated or set up correctly for the cam. Or Doesn’t stand straight. Anything else?
From what I understand, these stock beehives are at the limit with the stock cam. - what I was running.

I have about a dozen projects going on. But general information is good and about applies to everything.
 
6pak said:
I rebuilt a 5.9 engine.
Bored 030 , new pistons, rings.
Polished crank, w new bearings.
New cam, lifters, etc. etc.
after going thru 2 sets of cracked heads, …. bought a pair from big name head Re-Man-fer.
Cool…
Everything is great. Until 100 miles into driving,
Valve spring breaks, drops valve,
Destroys piston, twists a rod, cracks cylinder wall, and all my effort has been reset.

Seems like I am getting SOME compensation from them. (sent a new set of heads right out).
Also Just got new gaskets, rod, 1 piston (that is a mis-match from the others) - and a “credit”???
My pistons are only sold in a set of 8.
When do I just bend over, wipe the tears and declare the screwing I am getting doesn’t hurt all that much?
Click to expand...
I don't trust anybody setting up my head's.
They supplied new parts, rare. You're doing good. The block... well.. been there.
I blew a piston and there was no recourse...so I had to buy the rod, new pistons, bearings, rings, gaskets... and go and pull and buy a block@$250 and take it to have bored .020 over and prepped @$400 bucks.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I don't trust anybody setting up my head's.
They supplied new parts, rare. You're doing good. The block... well.. been there.
I blew a piston and there was no recourse...so I had to buy the rod, new pistons, bearings, rings, gaskets... and go and pull and buy a block@$250 and take it to have bored .020 over and prepped @$400 bucks.
Click to expand...
Ouch...
 
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