What do you think a fair price is for my 1967 318 engine

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65goldcuda

65goldcuda

@65_Cuda w/408/727/Dana 60
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I have a 1967 318 with a mild cam (no idea what it is) that I think was rebuilt 8 years ago. The car only has 93,000 miles so I am thinking it has less than 20,000 on the rebuild but couldn't say for sure. (it is currently in my 65 barracuda). It runs great, has good compression, but I want to upgrade to a 360 with 380HP. I have been told this 318 probably makes about 180-200HP max. I want to sell it on Craigslist, but have no idea what to ask for it. I was thinking about $1500-$2500 for everything that sits on it that someone would want (including intake and exhaust manifolds, distributor, valve covers, 600 Edlebrock carb etc). What do you all think is a fair price?
 

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nope, not for a bunch of I don't knows, and guesses. I would say a unknown 318 running is worth about 300 or so.
 
I would say a bit more, do/make a video of it running and walk around the car to the rear
and let a good sound bite get in the video along with showing you pull the valve cover breather off so they see no blow by, heck the carb and intake valve covers and parts are worth 300 JMO, and you live in Houston :color: so you will have allot of people that can come by and hear it run I would think 8) My Opinion = start an asking price of $600 OBO. JMO
300 sounds very low for a complete good running Teen...
 
65goldcuda said:
I was thinking about $1500-$2500 for everything that sits on it
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only if you consider the barracuda to "sit on it"

as far as used 318s go this is a very nice looking one and it has some nice valve covers and a matching aircleaner which bumps the price a little, but not much

I would imagine that most guys wouldn't spend more then 500 bucks on a 318 if they could get a 360 for the same amount of money
 
It very difficult to get more than a couple hundred bucks for any engine unless a potential buyer can hear it run, and you have receipts, specs, and build shop references.
 
What kind of gas mileage do you get wiith that specific set-up? I might be looking for a 318 with a mild cam. Tom
 
Least it's not a slant 6 ,, You gotta pay people to take them away !!:cheers:
 
Darter6 said:
Least it's not a slant 6 ,, You gotta pay people to take them away !!:cheers:
Click to expand...

Really? You just don't know the right people.

I got $530 for a 225 with no compression.
Sold a slant 6 stock head that had been over heated and machined flat again for $375.00
And I've sold a number of running 225's in stock form for between $250 and $425 each.
 
Frankie didn't mention this was at night, and large caliber firearms were involved

I wouldn't pay half that much for a 360 that could not be proved (IE I knew the guy) what was "in" the engine
 
I think Memike is on point, I would ask $600 in Houston and negotiate from there.

In south Texas allot of people ask just the sane side of outrageous for parts(i.e. sometimes only $1500 for a running 50 chevy pu or $4000 for a rusted, dirt-sunk Duster . I believe they do that as a starting point for low-ballers.

You have the dress up kit, it runs well?-good things to have going for you.

People are going to offer less than half of whatever price you start at $600 or higher, and let them work their way up to what you think is reasonable (above $400??)

I would have a handy list of the going price is for new rockers, push-rods, lifters, gasket set, bolt set, heads & machine work, block & machine work, pistons, rings, connecting rods & bolts, oil pan, oil & water pumps, intake, carb's all run for together as a basis to go off of/argue with low ballers that try to break down your price as too expensive.
These two techniques (low balling and mark up) seem to be too common now.

If, someone seems to come and offer a straight, and fair price initially, none of the fore-mentioned negotiating will be necessary. I would not put firm (turns people off) or OBO or best offer {encourages lowballers} in the add.

The moment anyone became manipulative, in heavy negotiating, I would tell them to have a nice day versus striking a deal and them coming back for a refund for lord-knows-whatever-reason. One particular dealer here has made it difficult for honest buyers-possibly avoidable if you talk to someone and get the vibe from them.

just my ten cents, good luck
 
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