What engine is this?

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AJ/FormS said:
Its RED. Theres a lot of red parts
Its not Orange . Or turquoise. Or black.
Red is a 340 color. early 340
or very early273.
All the evidence is 340, and none contradictory.
Color, exhaust manifolds, single plain, big carb, race flavor.
Who paints their teener to impersonate a 340. If anything we paint our 360s turquoise.
Ima guessing 340.
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Yeah, 'cause no one has ever spray painted an engine before. :roll:

As for the "we" comment, you got a mouse in your pocket? I got a 360 painted orange. Another painted purple (from previous owner) and have had more than one painted blue or black.

The only definitely way to tell is by the casting numbers.
 

My 360 is Orange too. Its impersonating a 340, cause when it was black, a$$holes were forever telling me I shoulda built a 340. Well since my engine is bored 40 over I just toldl em its a stroker 340.That shut em up. Now that its Orange, I dont have to hear that crap anymore.
 
I know one thing, there's 3 cans of Walmart chevy flat black spray bombs covering the engine bay and everything in it
 
ramenth said:
Yeah, 'cause no one has ever spray painted an engine before. :roll:

As for the "we" comment, you got a mouse in your pocket? I got a 360 painted orange. Another painted purple (from previous owner) and have had more than one painted blue or black.

The only definitely way to tell is by the casting numbers.
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Yep. My son painted his 360 red....

You can paint them any color that you choose/like when you build them....
 
It would take less than a minute to look at the side of the block. It should be pretty obvious as to what engine it is then. It'd be cool if it was a 340! I doubt it's a 273 or 318 because of the parts it has on it. I say it's most likely a 340 or possibly a 360. Look on the drivers side near the back of the engine. My phone forgot how to post pictures right side up so sorry about that.
 

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krazykuda said:
I see a few things that don't sit right with me...

First is the fuel line. It has a fuel cell in the trunk, probably an electric fuel pump, a fuel regulator mounted on the front of the pass inner fender with a RUBBER HOSE RUBBING ON THE ELECTRICAL WIRES going to the voltage regulator that someone put on the inner fender.

Then they route the rubber hose all the way around the world, behind the back of the carb, around the driver's side, and then up to the fuel inlet at the front of the carb, with rubber passing by moving linkages...
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Wow thats a fire hazard waiting to happen...and if you plan on going to the track you WON'T be passing tech with all that rubber hose..
 
First off thanks for all the answers and help. The background behind the car is it was traded into a dealership and basically auctioned to highest bidder (ME). I feel I got a great deal on the car UNDER 6K!!!! I bought it sight unseen, I judged it based on pictures and word of mouth. This is my first entry into the muscle car world. The sales rep that sold the car stated he believed it to be a 340. The hood states 440, and I also seen in one of the auction notes it was a 440. I have the car getting shipped from out of state and will have it Monday or Tuesday and will look at the casting numbers.
Thanks again for all the help
 
Thank YOU for the update! I was wondering...
Anyway, no way it's a 440. Definitely smallie. It would be nice if you scored a built 340 but all the LA engine can be built to run like a scalded dog. It may even be a stroker for all we know.
 
Like Daniel said. Check the side if the block. Crawl under the car with a flashlight and there it is.
 
I bet it wouldn't have brought the same money had it been it's original Tan. The good news is that Green and Yellow A-bodies aren't rare anymore. Can't remember the last time I saw an original Pink or Purple car here.

Looks like fun though, enjoy!
 
I know that car! Guy had it for sale here locally for awhile... he was asking like 14k..i was like...nope...put down the crack pipe..I went over and worked on it for the guy. He couldn't get fire from the ignition because the airgap on the msd distributor was way out of wack....If I remember correctly, its a 340 block...I seem to remember him running it hot 1 time.
 
GAMoparMan said:
I know that car! Guy had it for sale here locally for awhile... he was asking like 14k..i was like...nope...put down the crack pipe..I went over and worked on it for the guy. He couldn't get fire from the ignition because the airgap on the msd distributor was way out of wack....If I remember correctly, its a 340 block...I seem to remember him running it hot 1 time.
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Crazy, The car is from Georgia.
 
stroked340 said:
Wow thats a fire hazard waiting to happen...and if you plan on going to the track you WON'T be passing tech with all that rubber hose..
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Yes, and if the rubber hose gets caught in the linkage and make the car stick at WOT, then you will be in for one hell of a ride... :burnout: :burnout: :burnout:


Two good reasons to get the fuel line redone ASAP when you get it... :color:

NEVER MOUNT WIRES OR HOSES NEAR MOVING LINKAGES
 
sorry, didn't see it posted....hmmmm

between 5 and 6.....I think it was a good deal based on the drivetrain, condition of the body, and ease-ability to undo all the custom mods to make a really nice car. But thats my personal opinion based on the availability of cars in this area of the country.
 
GAMoparMan said:
sorry, didn't see it posted....hmmmm

between 5 and 6.....I think it was a good deal based on the drivetrain, condition of the body, and ease-ability to undo all the custom mods to make a really nice car. But thats my personal opinion based on the availability of cars in this area of the country.
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Thanks for your reply!!!!
 
I talked with my in-law that was there with me that day..he didn't run it hot..he had run it with NO oil for awhile..he realized his mistake when it started knocking...I don't know if between then and now he went back in or not..but I would keep an eye on the oil pressure.
 
Three ways

Look to see if the front balancer is "off balance" means 360 IE cutouts around the edge Google this, find photos

Look at your engine photo where the battery ground is bolted. Look on the front of the engine block just below the head right there. Should be a long stamped (not cast) no. With the engine CID in about the ? 2nd through 4th numerals

As posted earlier, get under there and read off the side of the block. If it's not greased up this should be fairly easy. Not so easy for me, LOL
 
GAMoparMan said:
I talked with my in-law that was there with me that day..he didn't run it hot..he had run it with NO oil for awhile..he realized his mistake when it started knocking...I don't know if between then and now he went back in or not..but I would keep an eye on the oil pressure.
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I just got the car in last night. Im going to check the cid hopefully tomorrow. Im having trouble now keeping it running seems to have a high idle.
After I start the car and try switching it in drive it dies. It might help to add it has a hurst v matic shifter that im trying to figure out how it works. There was oil in it dart67.lol Thanks again guys. As I stated before this is my entery car into muscle.
 
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