What headers work, and what don't?

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DartorDemon

DartorDemon

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I started searching and found a lot of mixed info. Opinions seemed mixed on the hookers/summit headers. The general opinion i gathered was that they are a pita to install.

Is there really that much of a difference from the cheaper headers to the expensive $500/600 headers?

This is for a 73' duster.
 
DIfference is 5/16 flange vs 3/8 flange, Material & thickness of tubes / collectors...73 is the widest A body made so headers are not as BIG of an issue as on the 67 - 69 or even worse on the 64 -66...... check out the specs and buy reputable or you will be replacing them in a year or two...also fit them THEN get them ceramic coated.... I do not use the three bolt collector flange they are a PITA....try the stainless band but that means cutting off the flange retainer on the end of the collectors...I like them becuse they do not come loose ( if dun rite) and seal better ALSO much easier to remove & reinstall if necessary. in short YES there is a difference a noticable and notable one
 
Hooker and headman work but hang low and hang thinner flanges. Tti fit very nice, don't hang low and have thick flanges.
 
and if you care about performance, you will change those cheap headers every year since they will probably be beat to death due to them hangin so low and the cost and time to change them out every year will soon be close to install something better in the first place
 
I have had 2 cheap sets on my duster 318 with PS, and found the time and money wasted could have bought a nice set, TTI, would have saved in the long run. Very nice company to deal with. spend the extra money. It's like Ketchup, you don't want the generic brand.
 
You get what you pay for,I will never and I mean never buy a set of cheap headers again.I bought the new style 1 7/8 headers from TTi and I can say I was in amazment on how well built these are and how easy they went in.Its your $$$$$$ and your sanity.

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Two choices for headers that fit well and don't hang low. Dougs and tti.

Some people run the cheaper set ups for a long time and never have an issue with smashing tubes, others have the tube smashed in 2 days.

I buy Dougs all the time now and don't have them dragging the ground. They run about 440 for painted and 550 for coated. tti cost more, 600+ (bare) and up, than either set up from Dougs.
 
I just picked up a set of Big Block 440 TTi headers off ebay for $760 brand new with shipping and everything and am very impressed at how great thet are made.
 
Hooker Super-comps. They do hang low. At stock height its fine but any lower and it will be a problem. Clearance for 4-speed is fine but the 2 back, driver side spark plugs are tight. You will want 90* boots on those wires.

Oops. Sorry, I expected that picture to be bigger.

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I vote for crappy headers. They are difficult to install but all headers are going to take some time. Not only do they cost 1/7th the price of TTis but you don't need a $125 starter to boot. Mine hang really low and I haven't smashed them. I need to put my new k frame and motor mounts in, put on the 15" front tires and maybe crank the t-bars up a bit because I am running all of 1-2" on the passenger side! I guess I'm cheap but I just can't see spending that much on metal tubes. I'm constantly amazed at what man can make for $700. Welding some tubes together does not reach that level IMO.
 
Hersbird you vote for crappy headers? I am kinda frugal too but crappy headers? C'mon
While I certainly agree that 800 seems like a bit much for headers, but when you think about it I have seen 340 TA exhaust go for $700, I see people every day spend 3 - 4 - 5- 6 hundred on powder coating. your motor likely cost upward of 3k Stock trans depending on additions can cost between 1500 & 2k carb is at least $300 heck a decent stock fuel pump is $150. AND if you have an "Early A" ( narrow A) everything that looks like exhaust is a total hassle to install out of a box.
Here are a few things to consider when pricing out headers...
1. hang too low smashed tubes means new set or costly repair( crappy running motor)
2. Starter R & R
3. Oil filter R & R
4. cheesy flanges ( warping & leaking & constant tightening )
5. installation dimples ( due to poor fitment)
6. early burn through ( depending on use 2 - 3 years then do it all over)
7. installation headaches and time

I think you may want to reconsider using crappy headers? or crappy ANYTHING for that matter...when re-building a classic
JUST MY OPINION



I have expressed this opinion in other threads
 

They are difficult to install but all headers are going to take some time. Not only do they cost 1/7th the price of TTis but you don't need a $125 starter to boot.
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what tti headers are you talking about that needs a $125 starter? only ones that i know about that need a special starter are the early a-body ones. i know my small block 71 dart tti's can use a stock starter if i wanted to.

i've run headman and hooker headers on my dart in the past and man do they fit like crap compared to my tti's.
 
hersbird, dont know if you are thinking about an early A, i have had a stock starter installed with my tti headers i know its tight but it will fit in there.
im waiting for my second set of TTIs now and dont regret ordering the first set i love them!
 
I stand corrected on the starter then. My Jegs also use the stock starter and stock oil filter and both will go off and on w/o that much drama. I say crappy tongue in cheek. I personally don't think the $100 Jegs headers are crappy at all. They are every bit worth 1/2 as much as the TTis if you ask me. If you ask me the coated TTis should be about $500 and they should sell raw ones for $300. Then I'd think about it.

The $300 carb is actually a great example. There is much more engineering, cost, and assembly time in a 4bbl carb and they are $300. Headers for more then twice that seems out of line IMO. The factory manifolds are not a good comparison as they are a collector piece, some folks have to have those parts for a resto and they didn't make enough to match supply.
 
Hersbird said:
I stand corrected on the starter then. My Jegs also use the stock starter and stock oil filter and both will go off and on w/o that much drama. I say crappy tongue in cheek. I personally don't think the $100 Jegs headers are crappy at all. They are every bit worth 1/2 as much as the TTis if you ask me. If you ask me the coated TTis should be about $500 and they should sell raw ones for $300. Then I'd think about it.

The $300 carb is actually a great example. There is much more engineering, cost, and assembly time in a 4bbl carb and they are $300. Headers for more then twice that seems out of line IMO. The factory manifolds are not a good comparison as they are a collector piece, some folks have to have those parts for a resto and they didn't make enough to match supply.
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thing is that there is a price on quality ,making something like a set of headers cheap means you cant have perfect fit and quality. making something quick and with less presision will always be cheaper, cheap headers are hit or miss for a fact.
i think there is a reason why carbs are less costly compared when you consider how long a carb may have been around and how many the company may have sold since it was developed.
i build exhaust stuff everyday and making a set of headers that look good and being able to duplicate them time after time will take a lot of development time and expensive equipment. one old but good used mandrelbender with all the tooling is easily over 100000$ and thats not even a boostermaching wich is what you want for building headers for this kind of car and that is also part of the price when there is a company making headers for just one brand of cars :(
 
Sorry when it comes to headers that work and last ..TTI'S or Dougs are the ONLY choices out there...the word cheap does not apply,spend your good money on good headers you'll be better off...
 
I wish I was going to be spending only $6-700 on a set of headers....
 
I'd bet that the tooling used to build the least expensive headers is actually the best out there. TTi is not using anything more exotic then the other guys. What makes the ttis more expensive is where and who is building them. I could also see them being that expensive if they were going through the CARB certification of late model applications, but they are not. What they are doing is making lots of profits, there is nothing wrong at all with that, but don't pretend that they are not. Me, I'll have my slaves over in China whip me out another set when I need them.
 
Okay everyone I just looked on Dougs website p/n d453-r is what I think your talking about. When you go to the notes it says does'nt fit 727 tranny. This is a problem for me I'm going to run a A518. Is TTi my only choice here? My car is a 70 dart 408 stroker engine.
 
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