What is the highest amp rating alternator I can use on a 1970 Dart

[jerry6]

340 , electronic ignition , all stock wiring in good shape . Has the rallye gauges , all gauges were redone . Right now it has a 40 or 45 amp alternator . Can I run the 60 amp single pulley safely ? http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?InventoryId=1213599
Had a problem years ago on my ramcharger 1977 when they put a 100 amp alternator on it . , started smoking behind the dash , don't want that happening again .
Thanks .

 

[mathewdylang]

An alternator shouldnt cause anything to catch fire or smoke. In audio world we run 3 300 amp alts at nce. You just need to make sure it has a regulator. A bigger alt just has to do less work. Maube its different for old cars, but a friends 82 suburban ran 2 250a without a problem.

*Some are externally regulated which if you dont regulate will cause a battery to charge over 12-14v which can hurt electronics*

 

[Oklacarcollecto]

Keep in mind your bulk head connections are not used to that many amps so they could cause issues. Then there is the amp meter modification that need done anyway if it hasn't been already.

 

[mathewdylang]

Upgrading your charging wire off the alternator is a good idea. Factory thin wire will restrict current causing it to heat up and can burn. The factory wire is only there to handle what the factory alt puts out.

 

[inkjunkie]

Upgrade the alternator you will have to do some upgrades to the wiring as well....

 

[/6 Matt]

Right now it has a 40 or 45 amp alternator . Can I run the 60 amp single pulley safely ?

If the wiring and fusible links are large enough to handle 60 amps, yes. If not, you must upgrade your wiring and then bypass te ammeter or get one with a larger shunt to handle 60 amps.

An alternator shouldnt cause anything to catch fire or smoke. In audio world we run 3 300 amp alts at nce.

what happens all three regulators trip balls and run full blast (I have had that happen before)? Do you feel safe pushing 900 amps through a 10 gauge wire? I dont.

 

[mathewdylang]

Thats why i posted again saying to upgrade charging wires. Yes we run about 3 runs of 1/0 wire per 300a alt. I forgot to mention in my first post but did post it in a second post.

 

[67Dart273]

EVEN THE FACTORY knew that the bulkhead connector was a P.O.S. for larger alternators. Cars with 60?65? amp factory systems "got" what has been call "fleet," "taxi," or "police" wiring. This is a FACTORY mod similar to the MAD electical mod, IE the factory bypassed most of the current going through the bulkhead by using separate wires going through the firewall.

Fleet/ taxi:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1969960437

Read the MAD article:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

 

[67Dart273]

An alternator shouldnt cause anything to catch fire or smoke. ...................a friends 82 suburban ran 2 250a without a problem.

*Some are externally regulated which if you dont regulate will cause a battery to charge over 12-14v which can hurt electronics*

Upgrading your charging wire off the alternator is a good idea. Factory thin wire will restrict current causing it to heat up and can burn. The factory wire is only there to handle what the factory alt puts out.

We are not talking about Shovvies here. We are talking SPECIFICALLY about old Mopars which have their own specific problems

Mopars are the ONLY vehicles which, in the case of cars into the late 70's and in the case of pickups and vans somewhat later, used "full current" ammeters fed with the flimsy bulkhead connector.

The "full current" ammeter and the bulkhead connector, AS WELL AS wire size are all problems in these old girls

 

[BillGrissom]

... used "full current" ammeters fed with the flimsy bulkhead connector.

True, except 1963 & 1965 models (A,B,C) have rugged "bus bar" feed-thrus in the bulkhead for ammeter current.

I second the bypass idea of running a thick wire (~8 awg) from the ALT big stud to BATT+. If you want to keep your dash ammeter functional, you can add a diode pair in series so at low currents it mostly flows thru the ammeter. I posted instructions, but don't try it unless technically competent.

 

[/6 Matt]

Thats why i posted again saying to upgrade charging wires. Yes we run about 3 runs of 1/0 wire per 300a alt. I forgot to mention in my first post but did post it in a second post.

I was writing while you posted thay so as long as everybody is aware of the proper way to fry a 10 gauge wire then we are all good here.

 

[needsaresto]

Good posts here! All good advice,so Im subscribed.

 

[mathewdylang]

Sorry still new to old mopar electrical. Guess ill have to be careful in new territory. I was just going off what ive learned in vehicles ive experienced.

 

[fishy68]

When I rebuilt the electrical system in my car I installed a 60 amp alternator but I also replaced and upgraded everything in the electrical system to handle it including doing the ammeter bypass. I tried it first without doing the ammeter bypass and the fusible link connector got hot enough that it was starting to melt and I don't have much that pulls hard on the system. Just a MSD6 box and puny 200 watt stereo. As mentioned the factory wiring and design won't handle much more than stock without upgrades. Unless you have a real need to upgrade (you've added high amp draw devices) I'd leave it as is since you say the wiring is in good shape. JMHO