What is your burnout strategy on a very hot track?

[Demonx2]

I race the Sportsman class so no t-brakes allowed and it's 1/4 mile. Good old-fashioned (like me!) bracket racing! Couple things...Milan Dragway takes the Sportsman class all the way down to 10.50 so while I'm one of the faster cars (11.14 best) and chasing people, I'm not the fastest as there are certainly some faster than me. The other thing is many of the Pro class cars double enter and run Sportsman too. I've run into a few unscrupulous characters from Pro who have used their t-brake in the Sportsman class but generally most do not.

That -.009 redeye hurt as I was down to 6 cars. And wouldn't you know the guy I redeye'd on had a .191 light! I didn't need anything great and went red. Dang!!

2nd outing in a row where I went 4 rounds. I must have the 4-round blues or something!! Oh well, it's fun just to compete!!

 

[71Demon528]

Rockin robin, do you have anyone who has videos of your car from the side when it leaves the starting line? You said your caltrac is setup on the higher hole correct? Not that I am an expert with caltracs or any suspension for that matter, but if your battling traction and going to take timing out, I would say if you moved your caltrac bar on the bottom hole, that could help from the more aggressive "hit". Like pittsburgh racer said, yellow bullet has tons of caltrac forums. Also Kevin Wilson on youtube does specific videos on caltracs and explains it very well. Also, is the car immediately going into tire spin when you hit the throttle? Or is it moving forward any before the tires lose traction? Although the caltrac doesn't have as much adjustment as other suspensions, it still has some tuning available. If pulling timing doesn't work, you can try that bottom hole, or tighten the rebound on the rear shock.

I recently purchased a new set of rear shocks for my car (Not that I am suggesting doing that). The tuning instructions that came with the shocks gave me a decent place to start and the rest is obviously up to the owner of the car. The instructions say that when track conditions worsen, you should LOOSEN the extension setting (Rebound) on the rear shock to let the suspension separate more. When the track conditions get better, you should tighten the extension setting because less separation will be needed to sustain traction.

Now, those are general guidelines which they also say very clearly. Everyone's car is different. Since the caltrac is already set up on the top hole, being the more aggressive hole, I would probably start with tightening the extension on the rear shocks. If that doesn't help, I would lower that hole on the caltrac and try that. I know the calvert shocks are only single adjustable on the rear which sucks for trying to keep traction after the initial bite with no compression setting. But either way, you got to work with what you got.

Again, I am no expert, but if it were my car that is what I would try. Timing is obviously the easiest thing to adjust, but sometimes even that isn't enough.

 

[Rat Bastid]

Rockin robin, do you have anyone who has videos of your car from the side when it leaves the starting line? You said your caltrac is setup on the higher hole correct? Not that I am an expert with caltracs or any suspension for that matter, but if your battling traction and going to take timing out, I would say if you moved your caltrac bar on the bottom hole, that could help from the more aggressive "hit". Like pittsburgh racer said, yellow bullet has tons of caltrac forums. Also Kevin Wilson on youtube does specific videos on caltracs and explains it very well. Also, is the car immediately going into tire spin when you hit the throttle? Or is it moving forward any before the tires lose traction? Although the caltrac doesn't have as much adjustment as other suspensions, it still has some tuning available. If pulling timing doesn't work, you can try that bottom hole, or tighten the rebound on the rear shock.

I recently purchased a new set of rear shocks for my car (Not that I am suggesting doing that). The tuning instructions that came with the shocks gave me a decent place to start and the rest is obviously up to the owner of the car. The instructions say that when track conditions worsen, you should LOOSEN the extension setting (Rebound) on the rear shock to let the suspension separate more. When the track conditions get better, you should tighten the extension setting because less separation will be needed to sustain traction.

Now, those are general guidelines which they also say very clearly. Everyone's car is different. Since the caltrac is already set up on the top hole, being the more aggressive hole, I would probably start with tightening the extension on the rear shocks. If that doesn't help, I would lower that hole on the caltrac and try that. I know the calvert shocks are only single adjustable on the rear which sucks for trying to keep traction after the initial bite with no compression setting. But either way, you got to work with what you got.

Again, I am no expert, but if it were my car that is what I would try. Timing is obviously the easiest thing to adjust, but sometimes even that isn't enough.

Lowering the bar decreases the initial hit on the tire but keeps it planted longer.

Raising the bar increases the initial hit on the tire but doesn’t keep the tire planted as long.

 

[71Demon528]

Lowering the bar decreases the initial hit on the tire but keeps it planted longer.

Raising the bar increases the initial hit on the tire but doesn’t keep the tire planted as long.

Yes, which is why I feel he may benefit from that.