What rings/ bearings?

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Cleveland57

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I guess this could have been posted in the "newbie" section, but I figured I would cut to the chase - I need help and/or opinions with an engine rebuild.

First, a little background: I picked up my 1969 Dart (/6, 904, 7-1/4)about 2 years ago for a daily driver, immediately put on new leaf springs, shocks, brakes, tires and wheels.

With my wonderful wife's support, I decided it was time for some upgrades. I picked a B-body rear (3.31/489) which I had narrowed and a 360 motor with the matching 727 trany. My goal was to gather all the running gear and then after body and paint work, re-assemble the car with the new pieces.

I'm not the most automotively inclined person. I know what I like more than I know how to build what I like so unfortunately I need to open my wallet to accomplish my ideas. But I did choose (via a friend of a friend of a friend) a reliable engine guy at a reputable shop to do my rebuild. I told him I wanted to increase the stock 360 motors HP and I wanted it to have an aggresive growl.

Here's where my story gets muddled.

Despite my automotive inadequacies I wanted to be involved with the build (with the builders approval) and maybe learn a thing or two. Long story short, I was told the engine was done without my input or knowledge of what was going to be used to put it back together. I asked for a list of what had been done and this is what I was provided with:

360 motor now about 365 ci
.060 Bore
.020 Rods
.020 Mains

Hot Tank - Bore - Hone
Turn Crank - Balanced
3 Angle Valve Grind - New Seals/ Guides
(replaced bad valvesand seats)

Replaced Bent Flex Plate

New Soft Plugs

All Parts Hot Tanked And Cleaned

9.5 to 1 Hyper Connetic Pistons
480 Lift 230 Duration Crane Cam - Bearings
Melling High Vol Oil Pump
Progear Double Roller Timing Chain
Fireseal Gasket kit(engine)
Engine Tech Rings/ Bearings

Most of that is gibberish to me but I typed it exactly as it was given to me. I already have the Edelbrock Performer intake and stock cast 340 exhaust manifolds and plan on adding Flowmasters. I'm looking for a cruiser not a race car. My questions to anyone willing to answer is:

Does this sound like I'm on the right path as far as power and sound?
Keeping budget in mind, do you see any areas where I might want to improve performance?
Ballpark, how much should this cost me?
And one non-engine question - manual steering vs power, pros and cons?

I appreciate any and all input

Thanks!
 
That is too bad the builder built it without letting you know what he was doing and why.
for instance,i question why he bored it .060 right off the bat and not the normal .030.
Find out if in fact he balanced the crank,,,if he did,you now have an internally balanced engine(360's are externally balanced).
Internal and external balanced engines use different damper's and torque converters.
ask to see the bent flex plate.
I am not an expert either,but the build looks ok to me,,,,should run good.
I am sure you will get alot of "Expert opinions"
Without looking at my receipts from 4 years ago,,,I am thinking that would have cost somewhere in the $4,000.00 range.
good luck,let us know if you are happy with it once you get it in the car.
 
As far as the package... it's not bad. Pretty sound in terms of what was indicated that was done. Some people can't spell or worry about being perfect. So the terms that are off (they are hypereutectic pistons...) could just be he's a machinist not an English major. but.. The .060 overbore should not have happened IMO without the block being tested for wall thickness. It's called sonic testing. I'm sure he didnt do that. He says the cranks was turned and hyphenated "balanced". The crank is already baalnced. DId he re-balance the assembly as he should have using new non-stock pistons? If he did, as was mentioned... internal or external (factory) balancing? Did the engine come with the "use with cast crank 360 only" factory balancer? The new flex plate.. was it factory or the counterweighted one so you can run nuetral convertors? Never heard of Fireseal or Engine Tech. Those I'm sure are offshore cheapies. I would not expect to pay more than about $2000 for that, and that's on the high (CT pricing) side. You need to know what he did so you can properly assemble the driveline. So find out if he balanced it, and either what parts he used to do it, or if it was internal or externally balanced. you need to know for the torque convertor.
 
Thanks for the replies. While the block had never been rebuilt before, it did have a broken rod which caused some damage inside the cylinder wall and required the .060 bore to repair the damage.

I haven't found out yet about the balanced crank. If he did balance it, can I correct the issue with a different damper and torque converter?

Is "Fireseal" gaskets and "Engine Tech" rings and bearings a red flag? Should I ask for a different brand?

He didn't mention anything about lifters or rockers. Any recommendations?

Thanks for answering my questions, it's often frustrating to be the dumbest guy in the room about this stuff but do enjoy learing about it.
 
The guy building my engine is suggesting "Enginetech" rings and bearings and "Fireseal" gaskets. In researching the brands, they appear to be of overseas origin. Anybody have any experience with these or can anyone suggest an alternative?

Thanks!
 
I wouldn't use them. Use these http://www.federalmogul.com/en/Afte.../Products/PistonRings/SealedPowerPistonRings/

There is a few more reliable rings also but I wouldn't use those he has mentioned. I would question his engine building abilities after he suggested those rings unless he is just trying to save you some money. Of course I have never heard of those rings so I shouldn't comment to much. lol

Good luck.
 
Yeah, I believe he's trying to have my budget in mind but I just don't want cheap for the sake of being cheap.

Thanks.
 
In general, it sounds good. I have not heard of the rings, bearings or gasket company, but truly, that means little. So long as they do there job, it's a win win.

The cam should have come with lifters and the rockers can be reused easy. MOpar sells new ones for the worn out one if need be. They are stock replacements that run about $80 for all of them.

The dumbest guy in the room has left, and never asked his question.

If you get a book, a S/A Design, "How to rebuild your smallblock MoPar", well, that should clue you in a whole lot to whats going on.
 
As long as they work. I would assume, but you should ask, if he himself uses them.

This thread will be merged since it contains the same question twice.
 
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