What shift kit?

[mopowers]

What shift kit do you guys recommend for a 727tf behind a street 340? I've heard nothing but good things about the tf-2. Is this the go-to kit?

Also, I've heard there are several levels of firm-ness you can set it too. For those who have used it, what level did you choose?

 

[MRGTX]

LOL at the thread title. I thought this was going to be a toilet paper preference discussion.

The TF-2 sounds like the perfect choice for you. I just installed one into my 904 (have yet to drive it) but based on everything I read, it's a good balance between street drivability and performance.

As for setting levels of firmness, I was under the impression that the version you pick (1,2,3) is the determination of how hard it will shift.

 

[Bad Sport]

LOL at the thread title. I thought this was going to be a toilet paper preference discussion.

Someone fixed it, LOL.

 

[tru_loon]

I have had good luck with the TF-2 in all my cars. it gets rid of the overlap and still is quite streetable.

 

[Bad Sport]

What shift kit do you guys recommend for a 727tf behind a street 340? I've heard nothing but good things about the tf-2. Is this the go-to kit?

For a street/occasional strip car, yes.

 

[mopowers]

What's the best setting to use on the TF-2 kit???

 

[fishy68]

The TF-2 kit is a great street/strip kit that retains full automatic shifting and you can tailor it somewhat to suit your wants but it really doesn't have several levels of firmness to choose from. As for what setting there's only 2, RV/HD or street/strip. Assuming your using it in a street car the street/strip setting is the one I'd use. One step in installing the kit includes drilling out some transfer ports in the valve body transfer plate. The kit gives you a range of sizes you drill to. Sometimes the hole(s) are small and sometimes their already pretty well maxed out. One thing not mentioned in the kit that drastically affects the shift firmness is blocking the accumulator. Basically you remove the spring(s) from the accumulator and install a 2-15/16" long 3/8" diameter piece of round rod under it to stop it from doing it's job. If your running a stock torque converter you may not want to do this step as the shift may be too harsh. High stall converters act like a hydraulic cushion so they absorb some of the shift firmness so I usually block the accumulator if the converter is a 2200 stall or above.

 

[my5thmopar]

Per fishy68 and trailbeast recommendations I went with the TF-2. I'm not sorry either. It seems like Im driving a different car. It is a pretty easy install, just read the instructions CAREFULLY! I am actually using the RV/HD setting in my 318 Dart with 904. I wanted the geezer setting. The car shifts very crisp now. At wot, it will wind out to 50 mph in 1st and hits 3rd at 80. Note: I have 2.76 gears. I even used the smallest drill sizes. Sounds like you should go with the Street/Strip. Fishy knows what he's talking about. Go for it! It is a great mod. Craig

 

[dantegray]

Basically you remove the spring(s) from the accumulator and install a 2-15/16" long 3/8" diameter piece of round rod under it to stop it from doing it's job.
QUOTE]

What type and where do you get the rod?

 

[gremlin]

I believe it looks like this when installed. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-727-9...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d60cac9b&vxp=mtr

 

[gremlin]

I'm glad I read this thread. I was going to do the TF -3 kit. I think you can buy the 3/8 rod at Homedepot and cut it to length.

 

[fishy68]

Basically you remove the spring(s) from the accumulator and install a 2-15/16" long 3/8" diameter piece of round rod under it to stop it from doing it's job.
QUOTE]

What type and where do you get the rod?

Like Gremlin said it's something that you can buy at Home Depot, or the like. A lot of hardware stores are carrying metal stock in all shapes and sizes nowadays so if you have an ACE or equiv. near you they should have something. Most any farm supply will have it too.

NOTE: In my initial post I said to use round rod. I should have said round tubing because round rod is solid and heavy which will make assembling in the car harder. A piece of 1/8" NPT pipe would probably be close o 3/8" OD so it should work fine and you can buy it in short sections cheap.

It will function the same as like the custom accumulator in the E-bay link provided by Gremlin, just don't look as fancy.

 

[Johnny Dart]

Transgo TF-2.....:burnout:

 

[gremlin]

Homedepot has round tubing in the hardware department. How long should the piece be sticking out of the accumulator? Does it matter if it isn't tight in there?



So fishy68, this is a mod I should do? I just ordered the TF-2 kit, Mr Randys rear servo, (he's out of fronts), somebody elses front servo, the rebuild kit with red eagles, 4.2 KD lever, and a towel to cry on. It hurt prying that much money out of my wallet.

 

[fishy68]

Homedepot has round tubing in the hardware department. How long should the piece be sticking out of the accumulator? Does it matter if it isn't tight in there?

I haven't measured how much sticks out of the accumulator but I have calculated that 2-15/16" total length pretty much stops the movement of the accumulator. Doesn't have to be perfectly tight, in fact some guys claim they just take out the springs and don't even put a rod in there at all. I like putting something in there to stop the accumulator from slamming back and forth

.

So fishy68, this is a mod I should do? I just ordered the TF-2 kit, Mr Randys rear servo, (he's out of fronts), somebody elses front servo, the rebuild kit with red eagles, 4.2 KD lever, and a towel to cry on. It hurt prying that much money out of my wallet.

What stall speed are you running? If you notice in my post above I mentioned I do it when a high stall speed converter above approx. 2200 rpm is used because a high stall converter acts like a shock absorber cushioning the shifts. If you are running a stock or not much above stock converter the 1-2 shift may be too harsh if the accumulator is blocked.

 

[gremlin]

3500 stall..I did catch where you said 2200. Never hurts to double check though.

 

[chris17]

I went with the TF-2 as well and works great, not to bad of a install. Lokar cables made setting the T.V. pressure a breeze. Cheap and easy set-up!

 

[mopowers]

Does the solid accumulator rod come with either the tf-2 or tf-3 kit??

 

[gremlin]

I don't think it does. I went to Homedepot earlier and bought a solid aluminum 3/8 x 3' rod that I will cut down. $6 and some change. I was going to use the tubing, but they were out. Had I thought about it, 3/8 transmission/fuel line would work.

 

[inkjunkie]

I know everyone is talking about Trans Go.....a buddy that owns a shop has gotten away from the Trans Go line of parts and has been having great success with Sonnax......just saying......

 

[fishy68]

Does the solid accumulator rod come with either the tf-2 or tf-3 kit??

No.

 

[fishy68]

I know everyone is talking about Trans Go.....a buddy that owns a shop has gotten away from the Trans Go line of parts and has been having great success with Sonnax......just saying......

Hey Doug. Trans-go isn't a line of parts (that I know of). Shift improver and upgrade kits only. Sonnex is a line of replacement/upgrade parts. Why did your buddy stop using Trans-go? I've used just about every manufacturers kit made and while the Trans-go kit is more time consuming to install they work the best for me. I only used a Sonnex part once (rear servo) and it didn't fit good at all, real sloppy fitting. I haven't heard many complaints from others so maybe I just got a improperly machined one. Unfortunately I had it over a year before I got around to using it so I couldn't send it back.

 

[gremlin]

I ordered a Sonnax before I asked about Randys. It just came in and it has a huge hole in the back. I can stick my thumb in this thing. Looks like time to go find a different piece of tubing. I haven't tried to fit it yet. Now I'm wondering.

 

[BRONZEBEE]

I use sonnax stuff at work alot.
My experience is that if you have a good valvebody a TF-2 kit works good.
If you have a worn out valvebody a TF-2 kit will make you pull your hair out!!
I have had good luck with both,more to building valvebodys than throwing in some springs and drilling holes sometimes.
I usually get the shift correction kit and build it to the customers preference,not everyone want's to leave there tire marks in second gear(even though it is fun

 

[fishy68]

I ordered a Sonnax before I asked about Randys. It just came in and it has a huge hole in the back. I can stick my thumb in this thing. Looks like time to go find a different piece of tubing. I haven't tried to fit it yet. Now I'm wondering.

It's probably billet so it doesn't have to be as thick, thus the larger ID. I haven't used one so I didn't know they were like that. Let us know what you find that works good with it.