What shift kit?

[fishy68]

I use sonnax stuff at work alot.
My experience is that if you have a good valvebody a TF-2 kit works good.
If you have a worn out valvebody a TF-2 kit will make you pull your hair out!!
I have had good luck with both,more to building valvebodys than throwing in some springs and drilling holes sometimes.
I usually get the shift correction kit and build it to the customers preference,not everyone want's to leave there tire marks in second gear(even though it is fun

Hey Rick. Maybe that's one reason I haven't had any issues with the Trans-go kits, because I haven't used any badly worn valve bodies. I have several good cores most of the time and can get them cheap any time I need one. I also build them to the customers liking. After all, their who we have to make happy.

 

[toolmanmike]

Years ago I used the B&M Shift Improver Kit. I could bark second any time I wanted. It also had a nice firm shift into 3rd. That transmission is still in my old Challenger and still shifts crisp as ever. Mine was a 727 but here's the link for the 904. http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=s...-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-tf-a-904-wv-8-engine

tmm

 

[mopowers]

Other than a tf-2 kit, are there any other in-car mods I can or should do? Should I swap out to a 4.2 lever? An auxiliary cooler? Deep pan? Are any of these necessary?

The trans will be behind a 400hp 340 with 3.91s. The car will be a streeter with an occasional 1/4mi pass or two.

 

[fishy68]

Other than a tf-2 kit, are there any other in-car mods I can or should do? Should I swap out to a 4.2 lever? An auxiliary cooler? Deep pan? Are any of these necessary?

The trans will be behind a 400hp 340 with 3.91s. The car will be a streeter with an occasional 1/4mi pass or two.

What ratio lever is in it now? Are you running a high stall converter and if so what stall speed is it?

 

[mopowers]

To be honest, I haven't even opened the trans yet or ordered a converter for it. I'll likely go with a 9.5" from dynamic. Until then, it'll have the stocker.

This all came about because I noticed the trans pan leaking. I figured since it was opened to put a new pan gasket on, I may as well install a shift kit.

 

[BRONZEBEE]

Fishy,i have more than one problem with Gil Younger products over the last 18 years as a rebuilder.
When sonnax came out with there products it fixed a lot of pressure problems in the valvebody,that most shift kits did not address in there kits.
After putting stiff springs behind worn out pressure regulators and having bouncing pressure reading on a gauge i find it hard to adjust pressures that way.

I'm not saying the TF-2 kit is bad,it works really well in most transmissions,but if you have a good valvebody some of the shift kits are not needed for street driven car.
I don't have shift kits in my cars,but i have modified my valvebody in my personal cars.I have installed shift kits many transmissions for customers and they are happy with them after the adjustments are done.
But when you hook a gauge up to the reverse port and go for the wot test how many needles have you seen rock solid at 225 psi?

When the needle shakes all over the place where is the pressure going:banghead:
Sometimes it is a learning experience,still learning to this day.

 

[fishy68]

Fishy,i have more than one problem with Gil Younger products over the last 18 years as a rebuilder.
When sonnax came out with there products it fixed a lot of pressure problems in the valvebody,that most shift kits did not address in there kits.
After putting stiff springs behind worn out pressure regulators and having bouncing pressure reading on a gauge i find it hard to adjust pressures that way.

I'm not saying the TF-2 kit is bad,it works really well in most transmissions,but if you have a good valvebody some of the shift kits are not needed for street driven car.
I don't have shift kits in my cars,but i have modified my valvebody in my personal cars.I have installed shift kits many transmissions for customers and they are happy with them after the adjustments are done.
But when you hook a gauge up to the reverse port and go for the wot test how many needles have you seen rock solid at 225 psi?

When the needle shakes all over the place where is the pressure going:banghead:
Sometimes it is a learning experience,still learning to this day.

Gotcha. Even though I've been doing them for over 30 yrs. I probably haven't rebuilt nearly as many as you so maybe that's why I haven't seen the problems you have. I agree shift kits are not always needed and have also done my own mods instead of doing a shift kit. I'm sure you know how little it actually takes to make a torqueflite shift firm. The main reason I recommend the TF-2 kit is because I have used nearly every other kit out there and have not always had good luck with them, even though the valve bodies were in good shape, but I've never had a issue with a Trans-go kit. Most guys asking here aren't experienced like you and I to know what to modify and it's not easy on a web board explaining how some of the mods are done therefore a kit is the best for them IMO.

Yes it is a constant learning experience. Just when you think you've got things figured out you get thrown a curve ball.:banghead:

 

[fishy68]

To be honest, I haven't even opened the trans yet or ordered a converter for it. I'll likely go with a 9.5" from dynamic. Until then, it'll have the stocker.

This all came about because I noticed the trans pan leaking. I figured since it was opened to put a new pan gasket on, I may as well install a shift kit.

Ok. How many miles on this trans? Has it ever been rebuilt? If so how long ago?

BTW: to get 400 hp out of a 340, unless your spraying or forcing it your probably talking a pretty healthy cam that isn't going to work good at all with a stock converter.

 

[mopowers]

Ok. How many miles on this trans? Has it ever been rebuilt? If so how long ago?

To be honest, I don't know. It was in the car when I bought it a few months ago. Is there a way to find out approximately?

BTW: to get 400 hp out of a 340, unless your spraying or forcing it your probably talking a pretty healthy cam that isn't going to work good at all with a stock converter.

Yeah, for now I'm going to drive it mostly stock, then redo the top end next winter with RHS heads, nice solid cam ~.245-ish @ .050, RMP air gap, 750DP, etc... At that point, I'll be getting a custom converter. Will it be bad to drive around with the tf-2 installed on the 'race' setting with the stock converter until then?

 

[fishy68]

To be honest, I don't know. It was in the car when I bought it a few months ago. Is there a way to find out approximately?

Not unless you talk to the previous owner and he tells you

.

Yeah, for now I'm going to drive it mostly stock, then redo the top end next winter with RHS heads, nice solid cam ~.245-ish @ .050, RMP air gap, 750DP, etc... At that point, I'll be getting a custom converter. Will it be bad to drive around with the tf-2 installed on the 'race' setting with the stock converter until then?

There is no "race setting" with a TF-2 kit. As I mentioned earlier (I think it was this thread?) you have to drill out some passages in the transfer plate and the kit gives you a range of size to drill said holes to. In other words they tell you to drill out passage X to .090~.140 (just an example). The larger the hole the firmer the shift. If it's a daily driver or HD truck you just drill it out to the smallest size. If it's for competition you drill it out bigger.

I asked what I did because you said it was a 400 hp 340, not it is going to be a 400 hp 340. Big difference. It'll be fine with a stock converter since the engine is going to be stock right off.

 

[mopowers]

There is no "race setting" with a TF-2 kit. As I mentioned earlier (I think it was this thread?) you have to drill out some passages in the transfer plate and the kit gives you a range of size to drill said holes to. In other words they tell you to drill out passage X to .090~.140 (just an example). The larger the hole the firmer the shift. If it's a daily driver or HD truck you just drill it out to the smallest size. If it's for competition you drill it out bigger.

I asked what I did because you said it was a 400 hp 340, not it is going to be a 400 hp 340. Big difference. It'll be fine with a stock converter since the engine is going to be stock right off.

Thank you!!! I appreciate your help Fishy.

What hole would you recommend for a mostly streeter? Do you recommend removing the accumulator spring and install a rod. to keep it from moving? I've heard this firms up the 2-3 shift?

 

[fishy68]

Thank you!!! I appreciate your help Fishy.

What hole would you recommend for a mostly streeter? Do you recommend removing the accumulator spring and install a rod. to keep it from moving? I've heard this firms up the 2-3 shift?

Shoot for middle of the road on the hole sizes. If they say drill hole A to .100~.200 drill it to .150... see what I'm saying

I thought I mentioned this already but maybe it was a different thread. If your running a stock torque converter you don't need to block the accumulator. A stock torque converter doesn't absorb any shock hardly at all so if you block it the 1-2 shift may be real harsh even at part throttle. If your running a higher stall converter of about 2200-2500 rpm or higher you can block the accumulator.

Blocking the accumulator mostly affects the 1-2 shift. It helps slight with the 2-3 but not much.

 

[TrailBeast]

Just thought to mention the rear servo mod in case it has not come up.
Going to be doing any manual upshifts?

 

[gremlin]

It's probably billet so it doesn't have to be as thick, thus the larger ID. I haven't used one so I didn't know they were like that. Let us know what you find that works good with it.

The hole measured .75, so I bought some 3/4 aluminum tubing at Homedepot. I haven't tried to fit it in the bore yet. If the tubings a little big, I'll put it in my mill collet and sand it down a tad.

 

[fishy68]

The hole measured .75, so I bought some 3/4 aluminum tubing at Homedepot. I haven't tried to fit it in the bore yet. If the tubings a little big, I'll put it in my mill collet and sand it down a tad.

Wow that's a big un... some aren't that big inside, usually about 1/2", that's why I say to use 3/8 diameter. Another reason for using smaller diameter is the weight. If your installing it while in the car the more weight the harder it is to get the piston to stay in place.

 

[fishy68]

Just thought to mention the rear servo mod in case it has not come up.
Going to be doing any manual upshifts?

I didn't mention it since it's part of the TF-2 kit, but your right, it's a mod that should never be overlooked.

 

[gremlin]

mopowers
Sorry I jumped into your thread, but I figure we are both doing pretty much the same thing.

TrailBeast, you gonna spill the beans on the rear servo secret? I'd like to hear it.


You guys ever drill holes in bands, drums, or anything else to help move fluid out of the way so bands and clutches grip faster?

 

[gremlin]

Fishy68, my trans is on the bench. I got the 3/4 aluminum tubing so it's really light anyway.

 

[TrailBeast]

I didn't mention it since it's part of the TF-2 kit, but your right, it's a mod that should never be overlooked.

Ah, I didn't realize the kit covers it.

 

[TrailBeast]

mopowers
Sorry I jumped into your thread, but I figure we are both doing pretty much the same thing.

TrailBeast, you gonna spill the beans on the rear servo secret? I'd like to hear it.


You guys ever drill holes in bands, drums, or anything else to help move fluid out of the way so bands and clutches grip faster?

I have never drilled drums or bands mostly because I never built anything that needed it.
I have however crosshatch sanded the front drums (Especially using a used solid band)

The servo mod is to take the servo assy apart and use washers to make it a solid unit.
The idea is that it eliminates shift overlap left over from shift kit mods when up shifting manually.

 

[gremlin]

I knew a guy that wouldn't let anyone see what he was doing when he went through a 727. I happened to be at his shop one time when he was rebuilding one and I noticed a few holes in the bands I didn't think belonged. I guess he thought I would steal all his customers if I knew what he was doing.

 

[fishy68]

Ah, I didn't realize the kit covers it.

Yeah. They send a spacer the correct thickness so you don't have to find washers. The rear servo mod is one of the advantages of the TF-2 kit. Most kits don't even mention it. I've only found 1 other kit that does.

 

[fishy68]

mopowers
Sorry I jumped into your thread, but I figure we are both doing pretty much the same thing.

TrailBeast, you gonna spill the beans on the rear servo secret? I'd like to hear it.


You guys ever drill holes in bands, drums, or anything else to help move fluid out of the way so bands and clutches grip faster?

I've drilled drums to let the fluid escape faster. Never drilled bands though.

Fishy68, my trans is on the bench. I got the 3/4 aluminum tubing so it's really light anyway.

Gotcha

 

[mopowers]

Shoot for middle of the road on the hole sizes. If they say drill hole A to .100~.200 drill it to .150... see what I'm saying

I thought I mentioned this already but maybe it was a different thread. If your running a stock torque converter you don't need to block the accumulator. A stock torque converter doesn't absorb any shock hardly at all so if you block it the 1-2 shift may be real harsh even at part throttle. If your running a higher stall converter of about 2200-2500 rpm or higher you can block the accumulator.

Blocking the accumulator mostly affects the 1-2 shift. It helps slight with the 2-3 but not much.

Thanks for all your help guys.

Since I'm re-doing the top end on the motor (swapping in RHS heads, cam, intake and carb) next winter and dropping the trans to install a custom converter, for now I'm thinking I should just change the filter, adjust the bands, and tighten everything up without the shift kit now, until I start tearing the motor apart. I still plan on installing headers, converting to manual steering, addressing the fuel system and cooling system. It's sounds like it'd be a better plan if I just add the shift kit to the 'next winter' list, since everything will be apart anyway. Then I can also install a dedicated trans cooler as well.