What should be done to the front suspension while the motor is out of the car?

[DusterDaddy]

I am finally beginning work on my 74 Duster, The car was somewhat abused years back and was raided for a few parts and left to sit for a few years.

I pulled the factory 318 and 904 out of the car and plan to look for mildly built 318 or freshened 360 with the stock 904 and 8.25 rear.

While there is no motor in the car, I should address the nearly 40 year old suspension and steering gear right?

I am a carpenter by trade and have very good aptitude for mechanical work, but this is my first project like this.

My question is where to begin and what process to follow to rebuild/check the front suspension?

I have attached a picture of a broken or worn part on the Kframe that one mopar guy told me was not repairable, but many of you hear have told me it's a common problem and can be repaired easily.

What is this part of the suspension and how should it be repaired?

Thanks!

 

[abodyjoe]

hard to tell what happened there.. is that a weld starting near that nut and going up?


i would just replace the k-frame. then rebuild the front end (complete kit and torsion bars) while the motor is out. if the box needs to be replaced do it at this time also.. a lot easier to work with no motor in it..

 

[ev2]

firm feel has upgrade k member

 

[BillGrissom]

It looks like the LCA bolt tube weld broke. This has happened to others. People have welded them back, usually with a washer to stiffen it. It seems the factory did a poor job some years, or maybe just during Stretch Cunningham's shift. Your steel looks solid, so should be simple for someone with a welder. If you must pay shop rates, it might be cheaper to get a used K-frame, but V-8 ones are in demand.

The kits are fairly expensive and don't always include the best parts. I have done better by buying individual parts, and just the ones needed. The lower ball joints and idler arms have been worn on my cars. I re-used my upper ball joints and tie rod ends, adding polyurethane boots. Of course, replace all the rubber bushings. See sticky for removing them. I wire-brushed and painted everything, because I enjoy working on clean cars.

 

[mvh]

The advantage of a kit (say, from Kantner) is that if you haven't done it before, it gives you everything you need, and now all you have to do is figure out how to install it. But Bill is right, you can get better prices, and fine-tune the parts to your preference, by shopping around.

I would suggest reading up on the process to learn what you are getting into, and what to look for. A good source is Tom Condran's book "Performance Handling for Classic Mopars".

 

[ev2]

http://www.firmfeel.com/reinfkfram_a.htm