What should I change this year

Next upgrade?

  • Light drag wheels instead of steelies

    Votes: 21 40.4%

  • Bigger cam

    Votes: 14 26.9%

  • Methanol

    Votes: 3 5.8%

  • New trans

    Votes: 14 26.9%
  • Total voters
    52
  • Poll closed .
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gumper

gumper

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Last year I had the heads ported which improved my 1/4 times a solid four tenths. Now I want more of course. My setup:
LA 408 with forged stuff, ~11.2:1 on pump gas
Mopar .557 252*@50 solid cam
Worked over Eddy heads by LaRoy
Ported Air Gap
Bigs stage 5 750 double pumper
Hooker headers
Mild 727 auto shift with Cope 4500 rpm converter
4.30 gears
28x9 slicks on steel wheels all around
Calvert bars and shocks

I'd like a drop a few more tenths off my 1/4 times. The options I have considered are:
Drop the stock 14" steel front wheels for light drag wheels and front runners
New cam (lunati recommended their voodoo 30200743)
Methanol
New 727 (won't drop much if any time but I do have 8 seasons on my current one)

Thoughts? Any other suggestions?
 
you didnt mention what convertor you are currently running but that might be a good choice while doing a trans update.
Best of luck.
Rod
 
rod7515 said:
you didnt mention what convertor you are currently running but that might be a good choice while doing a trans update.
Best of luck.
Rod
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It's a 4500 stall 9.5" From Cope. Been in about 4 years.

Contacted Pro Systems about upgrading the carb before. If I did that I'd just do the alcohol setup as long as I was spending the money. The one I have flows 830 if I remember. I've had it for 7 years.

So far all I have done is put the rockers back on, changed the fluids and switched to an aluminum radiator.
 
I've been out of the loop for a while but alcohol does seem to be the trend.
I would definitely put a trans brake on whatever trans you decide to use.
Sure is a loaded question.
60 foot times? rpm @ trap speed. I guess we could do the math.
 
I would ask Laroy about the carb & cam,& alcohol ( He's probably been here,might be beneficial to ask)..Like posted above: 60 foot times,1/8 th mile trap speed tells a lot. Just my opinion..
 
Abodybomber said:
I would ask Laroy about the carb & cam,& alcohol ( He's probably been here,might be beneficial to ask)..Like posted above: 60 foot times,1/8 th mile trap speed tells a lot. Just my opinion..
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I`d loose the steel wheels to start with. -all 4 of them_
 
Might want to give Hughes a call for a cam. Run them in a couple of cars and have been very happy with them.
 
I would say this depends on two different directions. Are you just trying to go faster, or are you trying to be more consistent? If your into bracket racing. Then consistency is the directions to spend. Alcohol, tranny upgrade, engine mods that get you closer to the middle of the road of tuning performance. If your into grudge match racing? Then speed is where the money goes. First start with cheep. Dump worthless weight. Then move on to cost items. Steel to aluminum, glass to lexan, hoods trunks and bumpers to fiberglass, get down to the bones and dump some weight yourself if you need (that's a joke) but..... Also make sure your running the best gearing setup for your power combination. Get to that - crossing the line, all in, nothing left on the table power band thing right. Then go after the really expensive stuff. If your chassis can handle more, and the pavement will hold you. Add, Add, Add. Power, Power, and torque. If not, upgrade the weak links and move forward.

In short. Bracket racing - middle of the road tuning performance - consistency, then more as your bracket allows.

Grudge racing - dump the weight - gearing - chassis - power and torque.

Remember - sometimes you have to jump around and go back. Changing the power band can change the gearing again, or maybe a tire size change will cover it.

Note: I can explain my middle of the road tuning performance theory if needed.
 
At this point, for a couple of tenths, i would lose the steel wheels and go with some lighter aluminum ones on all 4 corners.
You'll need to do it some time anyway, why not right now?
 
My best times without the bottle were last September in Boise, ID, with an 11.571 @115.67 with a 1.593 60' (1/8 7.339 @93). Usually I race at tracks above 4000 feet. It's all bracket racing, so consistency is the priority. Have been debating the trans-brake thing for awhile, and even posted here about it last year. Right now I have front and rear line locs and launch off a two-step around 3000 rpm. I don't know if a brake would give me any performance improvements to justify the extra drivetrain abuse.

The aluminum wheels are the easiest yet hardest thing to do. It's either but the 15x4 and 15x8 Convo Pros for my 5x4 bolt pattern, or spend a lot more money going to the 5x4.5 pattern for more wheel choices.
 
cuda20 said:
Trans brake didn't make mine any faster. It did make my lights more consistent.
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I'm usually in the teens to thirties with my current system. Getting the car to move quicker out of the beams without using smaller front tires would be great. I have a Biondo button I can take shims out of if its too quick.
 
A bad *** 904 will save weight and HP and gain ET! Maybe a low first gear version would let you MPH with a set of 4.10s
 
davescuda said:
Build a 904 trans
Click to expand...

Had I not already switched from a 904 to a 727 years ago I would do that. Back then I was taking advice from a GM guy who didn't know a 904 would be a better deal for my application. Now going back to a 904 would be a bit out of the budget.

And my eating habits... Yeah, 20 lbs would be a good idea.
 
Aluminum drive shaft good for almost a full tenth at your current ET. Seen it back to back passes. Same day same track 2 runs steel shaft 2 runs aluminum shaft. Dads car picked up an average of .093
 
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