What to do with my 360 magnum??

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metallidart

metallidart

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Hey all! I need some opinions and advice. I just got a 1968 Dart, and it came with a 96 360 magnum, an od 4-spd (both out of the car) and a partially installed 3.73 posi 8.8 phord rear.

I am at a loss for the engine. I already have a 750 double pumper, and all the parts to install an electronic ignition. From what I have read I just need to elongate a hole on the mag flexplate, and I can use it with my 904(I don't have the cash to put the 4-speed in it atm). I actually have 2 904's, one new with a 3200ish stall and one stock/untested.

The car is manual steering, no a/c. I plan on getting a set of cheap summit headers, and the pro-comp air gap (I will at least port match it. I am laid off, so this is going to be as low buck as possible! Lol)

Now for the part that I can't decide.
-I have a set of uncracked magnum heads, should I port them and put them on? Would it be worth it?
-should I do a cam swap? I have no idea how well it would run with the stock cam. I have to call Bullet, I did an online cam form, but the reply I got back stated new cam, not reground. Also, a member on here has a good deal on an mp cam, it's not real big but I'm sure it would be a decent improvement.
-I don't have an extra timing cover for the la style. Should I find one and use the 70-up accy, or just use the mag setup and get an electric fuel pump?

Give me some ideas! Or even other options! Like trading the mag for an LA! Lol
 
Get the Hughes pump eccentric and older cover to use.
The stock heads can produce over 400 HP. The example I pull from is the MP 360/380 engine. It is a otherwise stock engine given performance parts. It used a single plane I take, 1-3/4 headers and a MP roller cam. I forget the specs but the intake duration was 288 advertised IIRC.
The proper flex plate can be purchased from B&M. I now nothing about making a Mod to the OE plate.
 
I wound up using the LA accessory setup on my Magnum but wish I just kept the serpentine. I think it's a worthwhile upgrade unless you prefer the old style look of the v rib belts. An electric fuel pump is better anyway imo, if only for the fact you don't have to crank the motor over and wait for the pump to fill the bowls. Just turn the key, wait a few seconds, and fire it up.

As for the flexplate issue, yes just enlongate one of the holes. It's been done by many with no problems, myslef included when I ran a 904. Just use some red loctite for extra insurance. B&M no longer makes then flexplatemto run a 904 behind a magnum, but sometimes you can get lucky and find one in the for sale section here.

I'd personally leave the heads alone, other than possibly cutting the valve guides to allow more cam lift. If you don't want to mess with that Hughes sells retainers that basically do the same thing. It just depends on what cam you get.
 
I searched last night for the flexplate, even the b&m site, different forums, etc, and it lookslike the 360 magnum to 904 flexplate is no longer available. That had been my ooriginal plan. I have to look again, but apparently 3 of the converter bolts line up with the factory flexplate and one needs elongated. I will definitely do some more research tho.

Thanks for the engine info! There is a cam/lifters set on here that is, according to somedigg ing around, what mp called a r/t+ 10 cam? It already has the longer snout and is a really good price.

Maybe I should sell the 4spd od and put it towards some stuff...
 
Thanks uop! I have to type on a phone so it takes forever lol.

I don't care too much about the look, I do however like serpentine belts more, and the betterstarts are an added plus!

I guess all in all it boils down to using as much as I can that I already have. Alot of people say the heads from a 360 are more prone to cracks, and I figured if I alreadyhave a set off and apart iI might as well do a little port work. Then again?
 
Don't sweat the cracked head thing. Yes, that is one small reason I wouldn't bother porting them (hard to resell if you ever wanted to upgrade), but even if they crack they're not junk. Both heads on my motor were cracked when when I bolted them on 6 years ago, and I'm not really worried about it to be honest.
 
Did the one hole elongation gob.Easy.IIRC,the R/T 10 cam is roughly 2 steps larger than stock. Nice idle smoggable. Might want to check the valve springs required. Stock Magnum springs are pretty weak,even new. Using the hughes style retainers,you can safely go .510-.520 lift.(to clear the valveguides safely).
 
Dont forget the car oil pan and pickup.
 
Stock Cam is the same one that's in the 300hp create engine which has dyno 320hp at around 4600 rpm, That said factory cam pretty weak even a mild 264 cam would give you a big bump in hp and rpm range without sacrificing bottom end.
 
I would advise to keep the serpentine belt arrangement. it's smoother cleaner and is already there. don't cheap out on your fuel pump you want something that is reliable. both holley and Carter fuel pumps come to mind. as mentioned before you will need a 360 car oil pan and pick up tube. as far as your converter and flex plate be mindful that you need a neutral balance torque converter if you are going to use the balanced flex plate from the Magnum engine. without the power steering is the way you also have the option of using earlier Dakota manifolds, big ports good flow tight fit but wont hang too low. make.sure your brakes are up to the task , improved cooling.system and dont forget.to check.your t-bars make sure they're for.an 8 and not a 6
 
I have an extra car pan, just have to buy a new pickup, and a new pump while I'm in there. I thought about the manifolds, I may go that route if I find a cheap set. I will most likely switch to big bolt discs, etc. I have a set of 340 tbars just collecting dust, along with a factory sway bar. I'll probably make my own brackets. As for the radiator, it will be whateverddoesn't leak and fits lol.
 
Are you staying with the fuel injection?
I had the feeling you weren't going to use it.
 
I believe the old 300hp/360 was pretty much stock 5.9 truck motor set up for carb.
 
Stock 5.9 was 245 NET which is pretty close to 300 GROSS.
 
The 300hp create engine is a dead stock 5.9 with a 4 bbl intake and with headers dyno 320hp
 
rumblefish360 said:
Are you staying with the fuel injection?
I had the feeling you weren't going to use it.
Click to expand...

I'm gonna go carb, even though I have the fuel injection intake, etc. I just want something simple and fun for now. I have a 750 dp to use, just have to find an intake.

Any thoughts on drilling/tapping the heads for an LA intake? I have a 70' 340 intake I could use.
 
I like simple/fun. Did the same build ,two years ago. There was a guy on Moparts,renting a jig just for this.I went ,with the Pro Products air gap clone. Plug and play,not as powerful as the Edelbrock. Custom machine shop work ,isn't a simple/fun/budget experience. To do a cam/springs/retainers/intake swap,on my 99 Magnum cost about 650 in hard parts.($300,new cam). My advice? Plan your budget,choose accordingly.
 
As far as I know there is no longer a jig being rented out to drill a magnum head for an la intake. This is one I built but never tested.

photobucket-43627-1364782332568_zps69f31fef.jpg


photobucket-39304-1364782265581_zps483130c7.jpg
 
Thanks for the pic, I have been doing research all morningon the jigs , lots of different ideas out there. I think I am going to try it. Redrill the heads, do a little port/bowl cleanup, and some good springs. I love porting, there is no way I can leave them alone lol.

I think I have a gameplan...
--the above headwork
--1970 340 intake with a 1" spacer
--electronic ignition
--750 double pumper
--cam I mentioned earlier,. 482/496 216/222@. 050
--I may end up using an LA style front just to look more original, along with la valve covers.
--904 with stock stall
--3.73 gears
I'm still up in the air with headers.

What do you guys think of the combo? ,
 
Well....I was doing some thinking about the engine, and the new car. I think for now, I will leave it mostly stock. Maybe swap my clean heads on, new gaskets, and drill the heads for a normal intake. The reason for leaving it alone is I am going to try to finish my stroker, and the 68' Dart 2dr post I just got will be the lucky recipient. I just want to put it together to have fun for now, hence the magnum. When I do swap engines, the magnum will go in my Dart Sport, since I want it to have a/c, etc. Hell, I might not redrill the heads. That way I can go fuel injection on the Dart Sport.
 
metallidart said:
Thanks for the pic, I have been doing research all morningon the jigs , lots of different ideas out there. I think I am going to try it. Redrill the heads, do a little port/bowl cleanup, and some good springs. I love porting, there is no way I can leave them alone lol.

I think I have a gameplan...
--the above headwork
--1970 340 intake with a 1" spacer
--electronic ignition
--750 double pumper
--cam I mentioned earlier,. 482/496 216/222@. 050
--I may end up using an LA style front just to look more original, along with la valve covers.
--904 with stock stall
--3.73 gears
I'm still up in the air with headers.

What do you guys think of the combo? ,
Click to expand...

You could do HEI too if you wanted. Trailbeast sells everything needed for $100
 
MoparDaddy said:
You could do HEI too if you wanted. Trailbeast sells everything needed for $100
Click to expand...

That's not a bad price! I have a distributor with all new internals, and a few pigtails Ive saved. All I need to buy is a new box and coil. I have considered the HEI route. Now you gave me something else to think about! lol
 
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