What to do with my Scamp?

[ScampNYC]

Hey guys. I picked up this Scamp over a year ago and I haven't figured out what to do with it. It was sitting in a barn for 25 years. It's a slant six auto. I redid the brakes, replaced the entire fuel system, changed fluids, registered and insured it, and it runs great but the trouble is the oil light comes on after about an hour or driving.

I've been sitting on this car for over a year cause I have a 2 year old, and I bought a house that needs a lot of work at around the same time. So, my time has been divided. Oh, and of course i have a full time job.

Trying to decide, do i:
1. Yank the slant six and clean out the oil pan sludge, maybe clean or replace the oil pump, drop it back in and go.
2. Yank the slant six and do the above, but also replace all the gaskets on the motor, give the motor some fresh paint, etc, then drop it back in a go.
3. Yank the six and replace with a magnum 5.9. There is one at a junkyard near me with 100k on it for $500. If I do this, I also need a transmission and either a k member or schumacher mounts.
4. Sell the car because I have no time anyway.

I'm lucky enough to have a 3 car large garage, so the Scamp is fortunately out of the elements.

 

[ScampNYC]

 

[4spdragtop]

Oil light could be something minor. Not sure if the light is psi or level dependent?
If it were me I would put a mech psi gauge on it and enjoy.

 

[ScampNYC]

Oil light could be something minor. Not sure if the light is psi or level dependent?
If it were me I would put a mech psi gauge on it and enjoy.

I put a mech guage on it... and yep it drops to nil after about an hour.

 

[413]

What weight oil do you run? Do you use any additives?

As the oil gets hot from and hour of driving it gets thinner. So use thicker oil is an easy solution.

May not be causing a problem, but Cleaning out the oil pan is a good thing to do on an old engine. Seems to always have some foreign stuff in the bottom.

 

[ScampNYC]

Yeah, a little more context. I actually tried a lot of easier solutions to fix the oil pressure problem, such as running a "soup" of oil mixed with marvel mystery oil, b12 chemtool, ATF, in different concoctions, and changed the oil about 6 times. I think it made things a little better—the pressure would hold a little longer—but ultimately I think the oil pan needs to come off at the very least.

 

[Syleng1]

Oil pump is a bolt on device to the outside of the block. Easy enough to swap out OR pull yours apart and check the relieve spring. Honestly it is possibly a wear issue and oil leaking down thru worn bearings and parts.

I ALWAYS love a V8 but depends on your mechanical level and pocketbook.
I wish I was closer because I would be glad to help you with diagnosing this engine.

 

[dano]

Does it drop low as soon as its warm or is it ok then after driving a while it drops?

What PSI is cold, hot and then the drop?

 

[Ottmundr]

Options #3.
14 years will go by fast, and that 2 year old will need a proper car, a MOPAR.

 

[TT5.9mag]

You have no options. You must yank the slant, toss it in the garbage and put a 5.9 magnum in it.

Oh wait that’s MY only option. Do what you want it’s your car.

 

[Ottmundr]

You have no options. You must yank the slant, toss it in the garbage and put a 5.9 magnum in it.

Oh wait that’s MY only option. Do what you want it’s your car.

He could always mail it to RRR...

 

[ScampNYC]

Oil pump is a bolt on device to the outside of the block. Easy enough to swap out OR pull yours apart and check the relieve spring. Honestly it is possibly a wear issue and oil leaking down thru worn bearings and parts.

I ALWAYS love a V8 but depends on your mechanical level and pocketbook.
I wish I was closer because I would be glad to help you with diagnosing this engine.

Oh, I also pulled the relief spring on the pump and cleaned and polished it.

As for mechanical knowledge, I have done 3 engine swaps, and I rebuilt a 440 one time for my old 71 charger that I sold years back. So a 5.9 swap wouldn't be too difficult. Its just time and money.

I don't want this thing to sit for an eternity... If I had more time, I'd definitely do the 5.9 swap. But I might do it anyway... keep the opinions coming, it helps!

 

[middleagecrisis]

Personally, I would do option 3, a Schumaker kit and find a used 727 or 904. Make sure you get a "proof of life" video if you can't see the transmission or engine run. The $500 magnum 360 sounds good, just make sure it's warranted against any prior major damage (Cracked block, head, etc.) when you buy it. Definitely don't do option 4! You will have time in the future and the A-Bodies are increasing in value daily. Too bad you're so far away, I've got a great running 318/904 combo I would sell you for not much more than the 360 junk yard core. I need to get it pulled for my 30/727 combo install.

 

[ScampNYC]

Thanks, yeah thats the other thing. This car was sort of barn find/time capsule situation, and I got it for $3k which by 2025 prices is pretty good. Not sure I could get a decent solid car for that price in the near future. So if I sold it, it very well could be the last pre-72 Mopar I ever own....

 

[TT5.9mag]

Thanks, yeah thats the other thing. This car was sort of barn find/time capsule situation, and I got it for $3k which by 2025 prices is pretty good. Not sure I could get a decent solid car for that price in the near future. So if I sold it, it very well could be the last pre-72 Mopar I ever own....

Definitely keep it. But there’s no more value in a barn find, original condition, slant six car than the same car with a v8 in it that’s not original. Do to it whatever makes you get in and drive it more. It doesn’t matter if that’s 100% restored or 100% modified.

 

[ScampNYC]

Definitely keep it. But there’s no more value in a barn find, original condition, slant six car than the same car with a v8 in it that’s not original. Do to it whatever makes you get in and drive it more. It doesn’t matter if that’s 100% restored or 100% modified.

Totally agree. I'm not concerned about originality with this car!

 

[dano]

Every time I see an old barn I think "damn, that thing must be full of rare old cars....." and all I find is bird poop, moldy straw, and death trap about to come down on me.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Every time I see an old barn I think "damn, that thing must be full of rare old cars....." and all I find is bird poop, moldy straw, and death trap about to come down on me.

But you still look. And so do I.

 

[413]

Mandatory is a mechanical oil pressure gauge at this point, what does the light mean??

What weight oil do you run?

How many oil changes are behind this car form running the additives and ATF? That stuff is thin and needs to be all out of there.

Bolting on a new oil pump is a great idea. Or shim the spring with a washer and see what happens.

 

[65 Dartman]

FWIW I had a Super Six in a 77 Aspen. The oil light would come on at a stop. So I did an oil change with filter and that solved 99% of the oil light issue. It would still flicker a bit at stops but once under way all was good

 

[85glht]

Trash the 6, install the V8. It's easy enough to do

 

[ocdart]

Looks like a solid car that would surely benefit with a 5.9 under the hood.
One other thing to consider is if the rear end in the car now will live behind the 5.9?

 

[Darter6]

What you are experiencing is oh so common with the Slant 6.
I have bought many and found sludge as the problem.Yep, pull the pan and clean it. Remove the pickup giving it a good soak with mineral spirits. The oil pump,valve cover and and rockers need a good cleaning too.
Usually before pulling the pan I wash the head sludge down with a combo mineral spirits then blasting with brake cleaner.
This will help loosen the pan gunk. Fresh 20/50 weight and you will be good to go.

 

[missing linc]

If you have the space, I would definitely keep it until you have the time and/or money to make it what you want, it looks pretty clean and solid and you will regret it if you decide to sell.
Just my .02.

 

[RSie]

The first thing I'd do, and you may have done this already: Check, and check again all parts of the frame rails, floors, torsion supports, etc. to make sure you have good bones to work with. It's easy enough to pull the seats and carpet and get a good look. I'd hate to see you buy parts and make plans to find out later there's some rot hidden.
If you do plan on keeping it and not working on it, do what you can to forestall any more rust forming... cavity wax, fluid film, hell even some used motor oil splashed on with a paint brush.