What to look for in a used 340?

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fazeka

fazeka

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Hi,

I have a '68 Barracuda with a 273 from a '68 Belvedere in it (original 318 was toast, according to the second owner). Thinking of putting in something with more go...

I have a line on a 340 with what the seller tells me has an Edelbrok intake and carb. It has been sitting in a shed under a tarp for the last 10 years. He doesn't know if it was running when it was pulled (it was his dad's who has since passed).

I am interested in it and asked how much he wanted, twice. He had no answer.

I have a rough number in mind to offer him, but before I go there...

Does the value go down signficantly without the original intake and carb?

FWIW, I was planning on rebuilding myself, with the help of a good machine shop in my area and a friend who's rebuilt a 318 before. Was going to keep it essentially stock and original as I feel it will be enough for my needs (street cruiser) and wallet, at least for now.

My biggest concern: what to look for? I am a newbie to Mopar but know enough that 340 engines in these parts are slim-to-none.

Any advice greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Chris
 
If you are gonna rebuild it, make sure it's not locked up from setting so long. You should be able to turn the crank pulley around to ensure the reciprocating assembly is free.

IMO missing the original carb and intake is not a big deal unless you are doing a numbers restoration. The Eddy intake will be quite a bit lighter than the original cast iron piece and the Eddy carb may be less problematic than the original.

Money wise, I have seen them go for a couple hundred bucks to several thousand, depending on whether it's a core motor or fresh rebuild. Since you don't really know what is in it or what kind of shape it's in without tearing it down, I would say $300 - $500 woudl be a fair price.
 
The main thing to look at is bore diameter. The 340s went in performance models and sold to the performance minded. Thus they were dogged to death and rebuilt repeatedly. I rarely see one for sale here, running or not, that isn't already .060 overbore.
 
I would start WAY low. One, it's worth MUCH less without the original car it came in. Two, you can make more power all things being equal with a 360 and they are a dime a dozen. Especially when you factor in the Magnum engines with roller cams. Don't get lured in because it's a 340 and it's "special". It's not. It's just a 340 which is a big 318 and 20 cubes less than a 360, which you can get on the cheap. Be smart with your money. That 340 could be a total rustball. It might end up not being a 340. He's already not responded twice. That tells me he's gonna be hard to deal with. I cannot stand people who will not just come out and give you a price. That tells me he's not interested in selling unless he finds somebody stupid enough to give him crazy money. Don't be that guy.
 
What to look for, like any motor, if it turns freely, stripped or broken bolts or studs, been rebuilt before, how complete. An untouched engine is worth more to me than one someone else has "rebuilt". I have rebuilt too many "rebuilt" motors and was not impressed. Things you may not be able to check if it is not apart are cylinder wear, smoked rods, smoked crank, head castings. If the mains are spun or one or more cylinders cracked, the block is worthless. 340's had the reputation because they came from the factory with all the good parts to go to 7,000 RPM and survive. How many need to do that? We used to swap the good parts to 318's and 360's to make almost the same performance. They are only + or - 20 cu in in reality. If it is not frozen up, it is probably good. We rarely kept junk for years. We saved the good stuff for a project somewhere down the road.
 
RustyRatRod said:
you can make more power all things being equal with a 360 and they are a dime a dozen. Especially when you factor in the Magnum engines with roller cams. Don't get lured in because it's a 340 and it's "special". It's not. It's just a 340 which is a big 318 and 20 cubes less than a 360, which you can get on the cheap.
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Very well put. I like it! :glasses7:
 
RustyRatRod said:
I would start WAY low. One, it's worth MUCH less without the original car it came in. Two, you can make more power all things being equal with a 360 and they are a dime a dozen. Especially when you factor in the Magnum engines with roller cams. Don't get lured in because it's a 340 and it's "special". It's not. It's just a 340 which is a big 318 and 20 cubes less than a 360, which you can get on the cheap. Be smart with your money. That 340 could be a total rustball. It might end up not being a 340. He's already not responded twice. That tells me he's gonna be hard to deal with. I cannot stand people who will not just come out and give you a price. That tells me he's not interested in selling unless he finds somebody stupid enough to give him crazy money. Don't be that guy.
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Here's the thing. 340's DO command more money "in general" especially if somebody is restoring something and wants "a 340." But if you don't, I would certainly not pay extra. Generally, a 360 can be had much cheaper


The thing is "how do you know" at this point that this IS a 340? And how about the heads? "In a previous life," LOL I once put 273 heads on a 360. That's right, I did that.
 
I was originally thinking of building a 340 because I though they were the best smallblock, but then I started doing research, around here people want stupid money for 340s! and you don't even know if they run. I ended up finding a 360, came out of a truck, ran pretty good, was cheap, only had 70k miles on it. Mind you I still completely rebuilt it, but its good to know that you can get a good core to start with.

360s were used in so many cars and trucks its not even funny, and you get the benefit of 20 extra cubes right out of the box as already stated.
 
67Dart273 said:
The thing is "how do you know" at this point that this IS a 340? And how about the heads? "In a previous life," LOL I once put 273 heads on a 360. That's right, I did that.
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What?
 

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Todlich said:
What?
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LOL. I was trynna point out to check EVERYTHING not just the block numbers. This was a lo budget deal during a very lo budget time. IN FACT these were early 273 commando heads and intake. I do (no I don't) feel sorry for the 'next guy' that tried to diddle that engine.

MosesTheCatHhitsRockBottom.JPG
 
wow, make sure its not a cast crank motor. check for X or J cast near spark plugs in the heads. If it were me buying it i would remove oil pan and check for windage tray, and make sure it is a steel crank. i personally dont buy any engine that has been bored, unless its from a machine shop with paper work.
 
discharger1332 said:
wow, make sure its not a cast crank motor. check for X or J cast near spark plugs in the heads. If it were me buying it i would remove oil pan and check for windage tray, and make sure it is a steel crank. i personally dont buy any engine that has been bored, unless its from a machine shop with paper work.
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And..........get into the service manual and look up "maltese cross" and the "diamond" symbol. You do NOT want a block with one oversize lifter bore!!!!! This is in the back of the engine section, covering special engine markings, undersize cranks, etc
 
If you do decide to buy it and strike a deal do not exchange any money until you have pulled the heads - make it a condition of the sale. If it is .030 overbore or more stay away from it unless the price is VERY good (it is on its last rebuild already, clean off the top of the pistons to look for a stamped overbore size). Also check the cylinders for damage / rust and taper. If you don't already know, the displacement is cast on one side of the block and the casting date on the other, so you can confirm that it is in fact a 340, and what year it is. As already stated, dollar for dollar you are way ahead generally starting with a virgin unmolested 360, which are usually easy to locate.
 
Lots of good advice here!You really need to research all the engines and combinations.But the most important research you need to do is be honest with yourself about the combination you can truely afford.There are countless projects started with dreams of big horse/low dollar builds and the same goes for great body/low dollar paint.318's can be woke up,340's in original trim run hard 360's can also be woke up.And then comes the big block!Be honest with yourself about your abilities but mostly about your money.Welcome to the world of "MOPAR"!!!
 
d55dave said:
If you do decide to buy it and strike a deal do not exchange any money until you have pulled the heads -.
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I'd go further. I'd want to look and make certain the crank has not spun a main. That is expensive to repair....................

You don't need to pull the crank, just the main caps
 
well covered....340 does sound the best when telling people what engine is in ur car.

i definitely would pull it completely apart b4 giving more than a couple hunid dollars for it...also as stated,x or j heads = good stuff..and the earlier the date the better!

good luck!
 
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