What would you pull off this C Body for your A Body???

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70Duster440 said:
The overall width of a typical 26" factory C-Body rad, including the brackets is almost 30" so some trimming may be required to slip it in there.
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Yes, so was the stock 26" radiator I pulled out of a '74 Dart, and it dropped right in. And so is the 26" Champion radiator that's in my Duster right now. 26" core plus brackets. I didn't move anything, not the battery, horns, nada. Just drilled 4 new holes and made my life super easy by tacking the nuts in place just like factory.

These cars came with an option for 26" radiators. Yes, they had slightly different radiator supports. But the frame, inner fenders, and everything else is in the same place. I suppose its possible that the C-body brackets are different enough to require some trimming, but we're talking minor issues.
 

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If nothing else, get a 5 gallon bucket and fill it with original nuts,screws,and bolts off of the car from everywhere on the car.
You wouldn't believe how much that will come in handy to you some day.
 
I will do what I can to look this car over for what people need before I scrap it, but I will probably need to list the items on another forum to keep everyone happy. I can repost here when it is listed. For those of you already posting here, I'll try to respond to each of you. Thanks again for your help.
 
72bluNblu said:
Yes, they had slightly different radiator supports. I suppose its possible that the C-body brackets are different enough to require some trimming, but we're talking minor issues.
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And that was my point. I said "may require some trimming." I have test fit a C-Body rad in my '70 so am speaking from personal experience too. There were no absolutes in any of the suggestions I made regarding the use of that rad.

This is the area I'm talking about...
 

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not seeing anything that anyone on this thread is looking for. Booster is not the Bendix model. No AM/FM and dashpad is split in two spots. No power trunk latch. I'll be putting it on C Body site later in the week. Has some pretty cool fender skirts, though.
 
I just parted a 72 4dr Dart. There was not one bolt, screw or clip of any kind left when it went to the crusher. Lord knows you can't have too many of those. :D
 
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Not the best shots. Was raining here. Is this out of line, since this is neither a sale thread or an A-Body? Oh well, whatever. This car is posted on the C-Body site now. More info there. Only had it here five hours and the rain has made it hard to do much detective work, but seems like it's in nice shape. Quarter skirts, trim, and hideaway lamps/bumpers all look very nice. Does anyone recognize the year/model these hub caps came off of?
 
No title. I wanted the 383/727/8 3/4 for my 68 dart. Not a survivor by any means. There is rust, and who would want a title-less fury with no driveline? I'm not going through the trouble to get a title for this car if I'm a C-body guy. I just got it first for the motor, so I'm sorry it upsets you. I'm not wanting to do it. I think it's a beautiful car, but what can a person do?
 
Golden Scamp said:
No title. I wanted the 383/727/8 3/4 for my 68 dart. Not a survivor by any means. There is rust, and who would want a title-less fury with no driveline? I'm not going through the trouble to get a title for this car if I'm a C-body guy. I just got it first for the motor, so I'm sorry it upsets you. I'm not wanting to do it. I think it's a beautiful car, but what can a person do?
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Put it up for sale whole and give it some time. If no one grabs it up, part it out. Id be interested if its got a peg leg chunk with better gears then mine, but Id like to see it go to a good home. The 2 door C-body cars are getting really hard to come by.
 
Dartnut said:
100% agreed.
Find a rusty p.o.s. to part out!
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Oh man, say it isn't so.....this car would sell, too nice to part out. That is a rare car too, it should be saved. Titles are not that hard to get for some people, I'd sell it, then use the money to buy a BB and trans. It's your car, so do what you want, but it's a desirable year and car, I hope you change your mind.
 
Golden... as a fellow Kansan all you need is a bill of sale for the car and then simply have it inspected. The DMV will issue you a clean title. Very easy to do... I've done several that way over the years!
 
Duster. Did not know it was that easy to do. Is a Missouri car. Need to be clear, I will be removing the radiator, motor, trans, drive-shaft, rear axle, possibly rear wheels, and brake system. Does that still sound good to anybody? You get a shell with no rear axle. I'm sorry this is upsetting people but I'm trying to Sell a 71 Scamp right now (59K miles, 318, 8 3/4) that is in great condition but some quarter rot has everyone scared away. What makes anyone think a Fury with everything stripped will sell. I understand the sentimentality, I do. But unless someone here wants to pay for the whole thing after I'm done with it, you should understand that I see this car as a means to getting MY car, a 68 Dart GT, the way I have designed it. I'll change the adds I have up to reflect I will part with what's left as a whole after I am done, and then we'll see where that gets me. I'm trying to not get attached to this car. Dont need more projects. #-o
 
Yep it's really no big deal as long as the vehicle is 25 years or older. The only catch is the car needs to have a drive-line in it when it gets inspected. For whatever reason they will not inspect the car without an engine. The funny thing is they never even look at or check the numbers on the required engine. Anyway all they will do is check and see that the vin tag matches the core-support along with your bill of sale. Then they cross check the vin number in their computer system just to make sure that the vehicle was never reported stolen. After that they will simply give you paperwork to take into the DMV so you can get a new title issued for the vehicle in your name. That's all it takes about 10 or 15 min total time...
 
Sell the rest of the car. I wouldn't junk it. its a rare car. Just that front clip is very hard to find.
 
id sell it complete. As a rare car, its better off if its all numbers matching. i was hoping it be a 4 door post you were going to cut up, not a 2 door hardtop. rust if not too extensive can be fixed. it looks like its got some cancer in the bottom of the fenders not too big a deal with a whiz wheel, and a welder.

why not take the 8&3/4 out of your scamp, and swap the 7&1/4 from your dart into the scamp to sell it, this way you have the rear axle you want already in the correct width. not every C bodys axles can be resplined, some are tapered past the splines and cannot be resplined.

i had to buy a set of A body BBP axles for mine. my 67 fury donor axle i bought for the chunk had the tapered axles. the BBP rear drums on a mid 70s cordoba up thru M body cars up to 1989 will fit an 8&3/4" axle this would at least take care of rear axle.

titles are pretty easy to get here in texas. my 67 barracuda i bought with a hand written bill of sale, had to pay for a bond to get a bonded title. it looks like a normal texas title except it says bonded in upper right hand corner. it stays bonded for 3 years. if prior owner doesnt contest the car within 3 years, the state removes the bond, and issues me a clear title.

since the car is undergoing a long term restoration dec 26 2013 is when the bond comes off and its totally mine. they recommended me keeping all my reciepts for the car. if the prior owner comes up with a title he can either choose the car or the bond money. this is one reason the car is going to stay a dissassembled jigsaw puzzle until dec 27 2013.

since its not registered and the prior owner died a few years ago i doubt there will be any problems, but i dont intend to put any of my new parts into the body shell until
then.

obviously y'all in kansas have it easier than us in texas. if you got it cheap, and it runs, id bump the price up and sell it complete. make some money on it reselling it, then you can put the capital in your project car. if you swap axles with your scamp into your dart, you are part of the way there. maybe you can find a 4 door polara or fury with a complete driveline in it.

i believe tennessee can do a title for the car too, check hemmings motor news i think a clear tennessee title is $200. the car is worth more to a C body guy who wants to redo it if the drivetrain is intact. i can picture this big hardtop in black or gunmetal metallic with a set of american racing torque thrusts on it and a black vinyl top. this is the ultimate car to take your girl to the drive in movies in. big roomy seats. do what you want but its an absolute shame to cut it up. if it was a 4 door it can give up a lot for your project, and to the C body guys. but man not a 2 door sport fury.
 
Not a Sport Fury. This is a Gran Sport. Got the same front clip, A/C, tinted glass, but not the rare and very cool Sport Fury (440). Can look into title before engine is pulled if someone may come along for the body, so that can probably be done. I doubt they do house calls, as I'm not paying someone to haul it to the HiPo station for inspection after I just shelled out three bills to have it brought to me. And not driving a no title, no tag, no insurance boat across town. This post was originally "What can I pull off this for my A-Body", so I didn't buy the car to sell it whole, I bought it to tear it apart and get what I needed for my build, ie 383/727/8 3/4 with the 489 chunk. Thanks all for your concern. If you know someone who is interested, please forward the word. Until then, people are already in line to buy items off of this car.
 
Golden Scamp said:
Not a Sport Fury. This is a Gran Sport. Got the same front clip, A/C, tinted glass, but not the rare and very cool Sport Fury (440). Can look into title before engine is pulled if someone may come along for the body, so that can probably be done. I doubt they do house calls, as I'm not paying someone to haul it to the HiPo station for inspection after I just shelled out three bills to have it brought to me. And not driving a no title, no tag, no insurance boat across town. This post was originally "What can I pull off this for my A-Body", so I didn't buy the car to sell it whole, I bought it to tear it apart and get what I needed for my build, ie 383/727/8 3/4 with the 489 chunk. Thanks all for your concern. If you know someone who is interested, please forward the word. Until then, people are already in line to buy items off of this car.
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When they do an inspection, they do come straight to your house. no driving needed. they understand the law of you can't drive it til you have it inspected. this is easily a $3,000 car around me on a.Bill of Sale. we can register here with a bill of sale.
 
before you part it advertise it complete on the C body site. Ask more than it is worth to you. I think you will be surprised at how much you could get for that car as it is, then use the funds to buy the parts you want / need. It gets you more /better stuff, keeps everybody happy, and keeps one from the crusher.

Just my 2 cents (and we don't have pennies anymore in Canada!)
 
Do what you want, it looks like you have your mind set anyway.
Your car, your time, your money.
Please excuse us for being enthusiasts, carry on.
 
If you had put up pics of a beat 4 door or a rusty 2 door, I'd understand. But a super clean RARE C body???

Keep in mind, they aren't making these anymore!
 
The car is posted for sale on the C Body site under exterior parts for sale and on Craigslist KC MO. Thank you for your interest and enthusiasm. I'm sure it serves your vehicles very well. Again, for the price I paid, I will not find a better deal for the driveline components. If someone is interested in the body and has their own motor/trans they could add, maybe clone a GT or S/23, then that is who I want to talk to. I will title it for those people, so they can revive this very cool Plymouth. If you just want to get an attitude and a "holier than thou" tilt, I'm sorry you didnt spot this car first. You would do so much better with it if you were in my shoes. If you want to buy it, PM me an offer. If not, I have work to do.
 
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