scottylack
Well-Known Member
anyone have a preference???
Whats a good Remote Oil Filter Kit for 340/360?
- Thread starter scottylack
- Start date
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mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Canton racing
No matter the brand, IMO, they need to be ported or at least deburred. I just purchased a Summit racing remote oil filter kit. Interesting unit. Basically the same as everyone else's except the base is a universal that needs the correct nut to spin on. You just need the correct nut to be selected and installed. The nut is held in The base via a lock wire, like our t-bars. Once installed, you simply spin it on the block nice and tight.
scottylack
Well-Known Member
can you repeat that?
fratzog lover
Well-Known Member
Rob, I am looking at a remote set up also. Are you saying you have to buy a mopar adapter base? I may be misunderstanding you. Thanks.
Yea, you misunderstood. The kit has everything you need.
Certainly. To restate, the Summit kit comes comets with all the parts you will need plus some. The plus some parts are nuts. You must select the correct size.
"HOW DO I KNOW WHAT SIZE TO SELECT?"
Easy, what ever nut spins on where the oil filter normally goes.
Once you have found the correct nut, place it into the adapter that screws onto the block. Then install the lock wire. Attach the surplied oil line fittings. Then screw it onto the side of the block.
Figure out where you want the filter located and mount with the surplied screws. Attach the oil line fittings fiirst.
Run the hose and secure it with the surplied worm gear clamps.
Test for leaks.
The remote oil kit is made of aluminum. The passage ways are not smooth. There comprised of tight turns. The use of a dremal of die girder can open up the passages nicely. Allowing the oil a straighter smoother path unrestricted by the casting as it was made.
Tomorrow, I'll down load the pictures I took of the part and the mods that I did. I do not have a before and after or a group of pictures good enough for a lesson on this but I'll try my best for you guys.
scottylack
Well-Known Member
Cool thanks. Maybe it has a part number?
fratzog lover
Well-Known Member
Sorry.
Scotty, you keep asking me for a part number, I can't find the receipt, get on line at summit and look it up.
Nothing to be sorry about Fratzog.
1 st pic; This is the base that attaches to the block. You can see inside where i did some porting. (Not finished)
2nd pic; (A bit blurry) this is the nut installed into the base. That nut must spin on where the oil filter normally goes. You can also see on the side where the half moon (Crescent) shape is. That was slightly widened and given a bevel to widen the mouth area.
I wish I had a clear shot under the nut in the center. There is a good bit of improvement to be had there. As cast, it is a series of 90* turns that can't be great for oil flow. You can indeed grind away a good bit on the 90* edges and lay it back into a much smoother lazy "S" passage. You are limited by the nuts inner diameter and the wall that is next to the other passage.
(Break through here and you'll hope the JB Weld holds.)
Nothing to be sorry about Fratzog.
1 st pic; This is the base that attaches to the block. You can see inside where i did some porting. (Not finished)
2nd pic; (A bit blurry) this is the nut installed into the base. That nut must spin on where the oil filter normally goes. You can also see on the side where the half moon (Crescent) shape is. That was slightly widened and given a bevel to widen the mouth area.
I wish I had a clear shot under the nut in the center. There is a good bit of improvement to be had there. As cast, it is a series of 90* turns that can't be great for oil flow. You can indeed grind away a good bit on the 90* edges and lay it back into a much smoother lazy "S" passage. You are limited by the nuts inner diameter and the wall that is next to the other passage.
(Break through here and you'll hope the JB Weld holds.)
This part is where the filter screws onto.
1st pic; You can see inside the "out" side that I opened it up.
2nd pic; You can see how I'm laying back on the shelf directly above the spot ground back. This "shelf" is like a set of Lego blocks. Straight, 90* turn to the side, 90* turn back up or out.
3rd pic; You can see just how far the oil passage can be opened up. Not much further though since that is where the oil filters "O" ring seals up.
What is hard to see is that in the center, it is also opened up a little bit.
Some ports can get a lot removed for smoother oil flow, some can not. Getting to crazy on it, you'll open up into the adjacent passage killing oil flow and pressure. Like when you leave the small plug out of the block when you do a rebuild.
So, I think spending a little time to help keep the oil flowing smooth and fast instead of crashing into walls and making 90* turns is well worth the time. Do not get to crazy on it because as always, once the metal is gone, it's gone.
1st pic; You can see inside the "out" side that I opened it up.
2nd pic; You can see how I'm laying back on the shelf directly above the spot ground back. This "shelf" is like a set of Lego blocks. Straight, 90* turn to the side, 90* turn back up or out.
3rd pic; You can see just how far the oil passage can be opened up. Not much further though since that is where the oil filters "O" ring seals up.
What is hard to see is that in the center, it is also opened up a little bit.
Some ports can get a lot removed for smoother oil flow, some can not. Getting to crazy on it, you'll open up into the adjacent passage killing oil flow and pressure. Like when you leave the small plug out of the block when you do a rebuild.
So, I think spending a little time to help keep the oil flowing smooth and fast instead of crashing into walls and making 90* turns is well worth the time. Do not get to crazy on it because as always, once the metal is gone, it's gone.
fratzog lover
Well-Known Member
How much additional oil does it add to the system, Rob? I imagine it runs a bit cooler too.
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
What type of hoses come with the kit? I bought a kit from a member but it didn't come with hoses. I'm guessing 1/2 heater hose won't work with the pressure or petroleum product.
Fratz; it doesn't add oil but helps what is there flow smoother and quicker since it is not restricted to a smaller passage that has multiple 90* turns. I don't think it will be a whole lot cooler. But adding a oil cooler at this stage is also easy and IMO a worthwhile thing to do.
Adding life to oil is a matter of keeping it cool, away from the rotating assembly, and not beatin the crap out of your engine because oil is whT protects the engine. Beating on the engine is also beating up on your oil.
Sedan; you are correct! 1/2 hose and not heater hose. Call Summit and ask them for some hose. Or your local auto parts store, not rod shop etc....
Figure that the engine oil will see high temps and pressures.
The hose surplied in the Summit kit has "Goodyear" stamped on it.
The only thing in the kit I would change out is the straight fittings on the block adapter. A change to a 90* or 45* soft bend is what I would like to do later. The straight fitting has the hose bending away from the frame. It is not kinking, but it is laying on the subframe. I'll need something to hold the oil hose away from the body and frame.
I also want to mount the oil filter where the charcoal canister is. I'll need another 8 feet of hose. The kit came with 8 feet.
This mod is easy and it makes oil filter changes a snap plus a whole lot cleaner. No oil on the headers, ground as well as a whole lot less on your hands, arm, hair, eyes, etc.... LOL!
Adding life to oil is a matter of keeping it cool, away from the rotating assembly, and not beatin the crap out of your engine because oil is whT protects the engine. Beating on the engine is also beating up on your oil.
Sedan; you are correct! 1/2 hose and not heater hose. Call Summit and ask them for some hose. Or your local auto parts store, not rod shop etc....
Figure that the engine oil will see high temps and pressures.
The hose surplied in the Summit kit has "Goodyear" stamped on it.
The only thing in the kit I would change out is the straight fittings on the block adapter. A change to a 90* or 45* soft bend is what I would like to do later. The straight fitting has the hose bending away from the frame. It is not kinking, but it is laying on the subframe. I'll need something to hold the oil hose away from the body and frame.
I also want to mount the oil filter where the charcoal canister is. I'll need another 8 feet of hose. The kit came with 8 feet.
This mod is easy and it makes oil filter changes a snap plus a whole lot cleaner. No oil on the headers, ground as well as a whole lot less on your hands, arm, hair, eyes, etc.... LOL!
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