What's best chassis mod?

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elevensies

elevensies

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Going to start some chassis modifications, tie bars etc but before I start I thought I would ask the experts here, the ones who have upgraded.

I already have a 6 point cage, and mini tubs, I'm looking for

Chassis mods
Suspension mods
Anything else you can suggest

Thanks
 
Tubular upper control arms and hiemed strut bars is a good start for frontend upgrades.Check with RMS,Hotchkis for parts upgrades.
 
Frame connectors, frame connectors, frame connectors. Offset UCA bushings, Moog strut rod bushings.
 
* I'll second the frame connectors. (Unless that's what you were referring to with "tie bars".

* Make your 6 point cage into an 8 point with short bars behind the seats angled from the main hoop (at the cross bar junction) into the frame connectors. Tack or weld the frame connectors to/through the floor.

* Aluminum or poly front spring eye bushings, poly rears and solid or poly engine mounts with a torque strap. (It all helps the suspension work better by getting rid of the "mush".

* New rubber or poly strut rod bushings.

* Don't worry as much about removing weight from the back of the car. That's where it will do the most good and give a little extra insurance to help hook at marginal tracks. Consistency wins most races, not an extra tenth or so.

* Battery in the trunk. But then you have to get a master cut-off and do some rewiring.

* SS style springs or CalTracs if you can afford them. Pinion snubber with clamped front leaves until you move up.

* 6 cyl torsion bars.

* Shocks are important, front & rear. But they can vary depending on your level of mods to the engine, drivetrain & suspension.

* A good front end alignment if all the steering parts are good, with little of no slop. Don't recall the proper "straight ahead drag racing" specs, but I'm sure someone will chime in.
 
Thanks for the info, yes frame connectors top of list, then poly bushes.

Caltracs, will look into tat, thanks
6cy torsion arms? Mm sounds interesting, how will that work?

I already run battery in rear :)
 
elevensies said:
Caltracs, will look into tat, thanks
6cy torsion arms? Mm sounds interesting, how will that work?
Click to expand...

6 cyl. torsion bars require more "twist" to support "X" amount of weight. They have a smaller diameter than v-8 torsion bars and provide a softer ride. But they store more energy and help transfer the weight easier when they "unwind" during launch. Shock tuning can adjust the rate of weight transfer.

I don't care for cheap, OEM style shocks. While they extend fairly easily, it can be too much in some applications. They also compress too easily, which can cause issues with deeper oil pans after wheelstands or during hard braking at the finish line while bracket racing..
 
Right, I get it now about the 6cy torsion bar,
Biggest problem possibly locating one here in uk, but i will try put word out.

Looks like a order from mancinis for the caltracs.
 
Oh yeah, agree about stock shocks, I like the mopar race fronts for the compression, running a deep pan needs that bit extra.
 
elevensies said:
Right, I get it now about the 6cy torsion bar,
Biggest problem possibly locating one here in uk, but i will try put word out.

Looks like a order from mancinis for the caltracs.
Click to expand...

Shop around for best pricing before buying a CalTrac set-up. Complete package will get pretty expensive. I'd like to recommend these guys. Check with Alex or one of the family members for your application. They race Fords, but are good people.
http://moneymakerracing.net/

CalTracs have their own recommended shocks. I like something adjustable up front with regular leaf spring applications. Cheaper ones would be Competition Engineering 3-way. I've had good luck with Koni SPA-1 but am planning to try some QA1 Stocker Stars which have an external extension adjustment which doesn't require shock removal for adjustment. There are better shocks, but I gotta watch my budget too.
 
I've looked at the QA1 shocks, look good, your right getting some caltracs is going to work out expensive with shipping and tax, no wonder we struggle this side of the water...

All good info though, thank you.
 
elevensies said:
Thanks for the info, yes frame connectors top of list, then poly bushes.
Click to expand...

Two of the mods that made the best differences in my car.
Don't care about the extra noise from the poly bushings either.
 
The best chassis mod may be to quit making it heavier with cages etc... if not required for the type of racing you plan. Which begs the obvious question, what do you plan to do with the car?
 
C130 Chief said:
The best chassis mod may be to quit making it heavier with cages etc... if not required for the type of racing you plan. Which begs the obvious question, what do you plan to do with the car?
Click to expand...

the car is a street strip car, its not a daily driver, it comes out for some midnight playtime when we get decent weather, and strip time.

in the uk, any car less than 12 second needs a cage, so im kinda stuck with that one.
 
Sounds like a good rule if not a NHRA rule.
 
imo #1 best possible chassis mod in any situation is....

RUBBER

yes that's right.

let me expound.

back in the 80's I remember the corvette style changed. the big deal was it could pull 1G cornering on skidpad tests.

fast forward to 2013. guess what the best cornering production cars do? about 1.05G

rofl

another fact...
you have two cars with antilock brakes. one has 12" rotors. the other has those big BLING job 15" brake rotors with cross drills slots etc and humoungous calipers.

both cars travelling 40mph and lock the brakes. with the same tires on the car they both stop in the same distance. go figure.

however, if you put really good tires on one car, soft compound etc. guess which one stops first? correct. it's the one with the better tires. why is that?

it's the same with cornering. most cars have sufficient handling / suspension geometry for the weight & purpose of the car. improving the handling of the vehicle has way more to do with improving the quality of the tires under the car than putting $999 springs or $999 steering box etc.

if both cars in the above scenario can turn the wheel 10 degrees to the left but one car has better rubber, which one do you think will turn better? ;)

don't believe all the marketing stuff you read.

anyways upgrading your chassis can be a good thing, especially if you have 40year old balljoints that are ready to fall apart, and at the same time you are doing an engine swap etc.

but DONT FORGET THE TIRES

most important part in my opinion
 
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