whats the best engine for both performance and mileage??

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I'm thinking of swapping in a 90's era magnum 360 with the FI as my dad ruined my 318 block I was going to build........but this may work better lol
 
5.2 Magnum with flat-top pistons, ported EQ Magnum heads, mild hyd. roller cam, headers, Air-Gap, 570 Street Avenger carb or maybe ThermoQuad with a spreadbore intake, or stick with EFI...

Hooked up to a 5-speed OD manual with 3.55 gears out back in a Duster or Demon (better aero). I'd say an easy 375 HP (crank) and at least 25 MPG on the highway.
 
Moped,nice combo!Could throw a World Class t5 behind it.1st gear is around 2.7,o.d is about .75.Great mild engine box.
 
purists...smh.

Carry on with your inferior engine.

I did the magnum route, you need heads(because ma mopar makes crap engines), an agressive cam, headers, a big intake, w/ a large carb to make 300whp.

In all likelyhood, it costs me more than a cheap 5.3 LS motor, which makes 300hp stock.

I can't wait to kick the worst part of a mopar out of my car. :finga:

If this is true, then your not thinking things through and have certainly missed a lot of info on building HP. Before you continue to trash the OE engine via a comparo to a much newer modern engine, lets look at the years spread between them in there design. Kind of remind's me of the spread between the 1st year "LA" and the Ford flat head engine.

Seriously comparing the 2 engines is not apple to apple.

While the heads themselves do not flow much, capability is another issue. Your Chevy heads flow what OOTB as installed? Compared to approx. less than 200 cfm for a stock head designed in the early 60's? Or the Magnum head which is on par to a degree in a few ways to the Vortec head.

When head CFM is limited, to produce power beyond a well balanced engine would require a much larger cam then what one would consider today for today's engines. This is the way things were done when the engines were new and the practice still holds water.

In regards to making 300 HP with a Chrysler engine, lets compare cam spec's to head flow and cubic inch displacement. How much cam does the OE Chevy 5.3 have?

I can make 300 HP with a very mild cam under 218 @ .050 in a 318. That is with stock valves in the inferior head.

The modern Chevy certainly has it's points and ignoring what good points it has outside of being a cheap engine everyone has at the corner store would be foolish and stupid. These good points, AKA. modern updated systems can also be found on a HEMI or any engine made today n the world.

Money aside, as if parts were free or money no object or point in argument, if I can swap parts on equal to the Chevy in some ways, like head flow, valve size, F.I., computers, etc... Do you really think the Chevy engine would make sense to swap in or is a better engine.

Each has it's pro's and con's and trashing a MoPar engine on a MoPar board is really lame.

IMO there is one way to do a high performance setup while keeping drivability on an old carb'd engine. Nitrous.

Do a stock bore 360, mild cam, and spray it for track days.

I've got a stock bore magnum 360 with a fairly aggressive cam and the notion of "good mpg" is a freaking joke.

Large "Aggressive' cams will do that.
 
I found an almost rust free 70 dart and am trying to do a cost effective mild restoration. Planning an overdrive automatic and would like good power. I was thinking about stroking a 360 but would I be better off with a 318. I can get the 318 engine and trans out of a 91 pickup for nothing.
Any suggestions and what kind of MPG can I get with various senerios. PS I was planning a 3.55 Posi.
Thanks
Greg Wise

Greg;

First up is great idea on a O.D. trans. The 3.55 gear X the .69 (MoPar trans) gear final ratio equals a final feel gear ratio of 2.4495. (2.45) This may be a bit to long legged for you.

You want the cam to cruise in a certain RPM range that works well with the gear ratio. (Also vehicle weight and other items, but, not so needed at the moment.) Lets look at other gear ratio's.

Now this may sound crazy, but via the math (Axle ratio multiplied by O.D. ratio equals final drive feel ratio) A set of 4.30 gears and the O.D. ratio of .69 equals 2.967. (2.97) - 4.10 X .69 = 2.82. This is a good ratio for stock diameter tire size and a excellent cruise ratio with use of a upgraded cam. Going to a taller tire should be kept to a min.

With that gear ratio, even a small cam will work.
And many will think this wacky, but be it headers or exhaust manifolds, a cam like Comp's 265DEH in a 9.0-1 ratio 318 will make right about 280 - 300 HP depending on carb, intake and exhaust.

The biggest issue for you right now is the compression ratio of the engine.
The Magnum should be a 9.0-1. What it actually spec's out to be I do not know. IDK, if milling the heads for more ratio is OK with you, but I think you could use it no matter what.

The nice thing is it is a roller engine. Stay with a roller cam and around 211 - 218 intake duration and more for exhaust.

Also, are you going to use exhaust manifolds or headers?
 
Turbo 4 bangers are what the factories are now doing, even BMW - for their cheaper wheels

Wll those engines last as long, lol but they gotta last as long as 4 inch stroke SBM engines

I would wait till those engines hit the junk yards, least with these new cars its easier then ever to total the car out. In 3 - 4 years the junk yards should be fill of 2013 turbo 4 cylinders
 
Everyone's definition of "best" is different. As you can read. Me personally, a 360, built mild, with 3.55s and OD had better get 18-20 in an A body. There are larger engines, with no OD, in heavier cars, with less gear getting 17. So I'm confident it can be done assuming your definition of "best" is 300rwp N/A on pump gas and somewhere around 20-24mpg.
I'll also agre that Mopar's engines for the day were great, for today are pitiful, and that includes the "(cough cough) Hemi". Take a look under a Ford's hood if you want to see a really modern V8, and what they are capable of doing. You don't shut off cylinders to get mileage, you make the engine more efficient. That being said, I am a purist in the belief that if it's a Mopar, it should have a Mopar engine. But- that's way of topic and doesn't add to the discussion...lol.
 
after around 1990 no motor is a real Mopar motor, IMO

So if I could score a BMW 4 banger at a good price and IF it really puts out the power which I have my doubts, well heck, it sure make the engine bay more roomy vs the 340 that is in their now
 
Hi Wiseguy. I don't know if some people are being are sarcastic or just rude in your thread but I like the idea of having an efficient V8 that has some power when you need it. What do are your plans for this car? Daily Driver? Weekend Cruiser?
 
If this is true, then your not thinking things through and have certainly missed a lot of info on building HP. Before you continue to trash the OE engine via a comparo to a much newer modern engine, lets look at the years spread between them in there design. Kind of remind's me of the spread between the 1st year "LA" and the Ford flat head engine.

Seriously comparing the 2 engines is not apple to apple.

While the heads themselves do not flow much, capability is another issue. Your Chevy heads flow what OOTB as installed? Compared to approx. less than 200 cfm for a stock head designed in the early 60's? Or the Magnum head which is on par to a degree in a few ways to the Vortec head.

When head CFM is limited, to produce power beyond a well balanced engine would require a much larger cam then what one would consider today for today's engines. This is the way things were done when the engines were new and the practice still holds water.

In regards to making 300 HP with a Chrysler engine, lets compare cam spec's to head flow and cubic inch displacement. How much cam does the OE Chevy 5.3 have?

I can make 300 HP with a very mild cam under 218 @ .050 in a 318. That is with stock valves in the inferior head.

The modern Chevy certainly has it's points and ignoring what good points it has outside of being a cheap engine everyone has at the corner store would be foolish and stupid. These good points, AKA. modern updated systems can also be found on a HEMI or any engine made today n the world.

Money aside, as if parts were free or money no object or point in argument, if I can swap parts on equal to the Chevy in some ways, like head flow, valve size, F.I., computers, etc... Do you really think the Chevy engine would make sense to swap in or is a better engine.

Each has it's pro's and con's and trashing a MoPar engine on a MoPar board is really lame.



Large "Aggressive' cams will do that.

Its actually pretty obvious that the LS motor is superior to every engine that ever had a mopar badge
 
superior in what way? Every way? Come on now. Be a help to the thread or take the babble else where. Seriously now. Act your age, not your shoe size.
 
superior in what way? Come on now. Be a help to the thread or take the babble else where. Seriously now. Act your age, not your shoe size.

BAAAAAHAHAHA!!!


lol. i agree. take your ls horseshit elsewhere. tired of this ls bullcrap everywhere. go praise your ls on chevy site.
 
Its actually pretty obvious that the LS motor is superior to every engine that ever had a mopar badge
WTF how is this helping the OP? Man you need to sell your Mopar and get a Nova or better yet a Crapmaro. Get the fu** lost.:violent1:
 
So when that worst part comes out will you replace it with an Audi ?????
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ward's_10_Best_Engines

purists...smh.

Carry on with your inferior engine.

I did the magnum route, you need heads(because ma mopar makes crap engines), an agressive cam, headers, a big intake, w/ a large carb to make 300whp.

In all likelyhood, it costs me more than a cheap 5.3 LS motor, which makes 300hp stock.

I can't wait to kick the worst part of a mopar out of my car. :finga:
 
318,340,360 all good choices. How its put together, tuned, trans, rear end, tire size. Everything plays a part. Its a give take deal. Put it together with parts that all work together for how you are going to use the car.

The fever is easy to catch. Pretty soon mpg will fall to HP.
 
In response to Rumbles post 30.Stock 99 Magnum 5.9,freebee.Looked good on bores,heads replaced with Cummins stockie replacements.Considered the factory roller 380/360 crate cam.Youtubed it, way big.Punched the numbers,overlap 78(same as a chev 350/327cam). Ended up with a single pattern Crower(284/284 112 l/c,224 @.050).Overlap works to be 58. Idles at 800,sounds like a 340 grind.21inches of vac,at idle.Gave up some h.p.,I will do heads eventually.
 
superior in what way? Every way? Come on now. Be a help to the thread or take the babble else where. Seriously now. Act your age, not your shoe size.

:finga: The denial in these forums is almost sad. Yes the LS is superior in every single way.

I voiced my opinion the OP in my first post. If he is hellbent on a keeping is car with a crappy mopar engine, he needs a mild engine with nitrous.
 
:finga: The denial in these forums is almost sad. Yes the LS is superior in every single way.

I voiced my opinion the OP in my first post. If he is hellbent on a keeping is car with a crappy mopar engine, he needs a mild engine with nitrous.
Liberal Troll.............i'm out!
 
:finga: The denial in these forums is almost sad. Yes the LS is superior in every single way.

I voiced my opinion the OP in my first post. If he is hellbent on a keeping is car with a crappy mopar engine, he needs a mild engine with nitrous.

If you're not here to help the OP........move on to another thread plz :violent1:
 
:finga: The denial in these forums is almost sad. Yes the LS is superior in every single way.

I voiced my opinion the OP in my first post. If he is hellbent on a keeping is car with a crappy mopar engine, he needs a mild engine with nitrous.


my next question is why do you continue to come here? not bad enough you praise chebby engines in your LS thread but you have the nerve to come to this one and talk abou LS engines but thats not bad enough you have to talk crap about the cars/engines we like too?

get lost!:violent1:
 
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