Whats the diff between these 2 hurst shifters??

[4spdragtop]

I have 2 Hurst shifters, physically they look identical, but one says Hurst, while the other one says Hurst Competition Plus. Can anyone shed some light??

Thanks
4spdragtop

 

[MtNemoMopar]

One has a handle......one doesn't :bootysha:

 

[MtNemoMopar]

I think the comp has a shorter throw...and is more rugged. The levers look longer on the one.

 

[nothingbutdarts]

I believe the standard "Hurst" shifter is a factory unit and the "Competition Plus" was an aftermarket shifter back in the day you could buy at a parts store. As mentioned, the competition plus is a better shifter, it would have had beefier shift rods and shorter throw.

 

[Snake]

This is off topic but Steve did you ever get your parts or Tracking number,I know this goes back some but curious.

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks Nemo ya smartass!! Levers are the same length, everything looks identical. Do you mean the internals are beefier?? Or are you talking the 3 rods that hook to the bottom of the levers?? Im gonna tear one apart and clean it up, just wonderin' which one to invest the time into??

Hey Snake, nope never got my parts or a tracking #. He gave me a full refund though, but I wanted the manifolds. Ya think if he shipped them he would have given me a track #.

 

[Snake]

Thanksss man you eased my mind.

 

[terry]

the competition mechanism should have a threaded hole on the front and back for a bolt to go into and adjust the throw of each gear. and i believe each comp machanism did have straight shifter rods to allow for the shorter throw.
terry

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks terry, I will take another look at them tomorrow

 

[4spdragtop]

old thread checking to see if anyone else has info??

 

[cannucky]

about 80 bucks ......

 

[bighammer]

The one that has "competition plus" stamped on it will make your car faster.

 

[Bad Sport]

One has a handle......one doesn't :bootysha:

LMAO, that was my first thought before I scrolled and saw your post.

 

[4spdragtop]

Ok ok I give....Lol I will re-word my question...
Which is the better shitter ???

 

[1968dartman]

The competition plus is the better of the two. Back in the day a lot of people replaced their factory shifter with a comp plus or super shifter because of shorter throw and better rods. JMO

 

[ssba]

Go with the competition plus. Don't forget the over shift stop bolts mentioned above.
You can drill the two holes in the factory handle to get the better thru bolt design.
Stay away from the nylon bushings when attaching the rods. Use the steels. It is nice that shifter has the Mopar reverse lever rather than the universal. You will like that shifter, nice sturdy part.

 

[mopar head]

ok ok i give....lol i will re-word my question...
Which is the better shitter ???

At work I have to use this type,
But I preferr the flush type

 

[1968dartman]

Now THAT is funny! Steve will get a kick out of this. LOL

 

[340butterduster]

You can't tell from your pics...but the Competition plus shifter is after market.
I'm not positive whether the throw on the levers is a bit shorter or not, but I do know the Comp Plus has a different diameter bushing has well as different rods to the trans.

Also the Comp Plus, has an adjustable bolt, for your throw, for a solid stop.

Danny at Brewer's would be more then happy to elaborate on other differences.

Steve...Love the "shitters". LOL

 

[4spdragtop]

Now THAT is funny! Steve will get a kick out of this. LOL

LMAO!!
I have been both the dude on the flush type and had to "squat" in the Blue Betty.....
Trying to type on a phone is frickin agonizing...shoulda been "shifters" LOL
Oh and I noticed every word I type in on my phone that starts with "V"....it wants to spell "******"???? Who the hell programmed by damned phone??

You can't tell from your pics...but the Competition plus shifter is after market.
I'm not positive whether the throw on the levers is a bit shorter or not, but I do know the Comp Plus has a different diameter bushing has well as different rods to the trans.

Also the Comp Plus, has an adjustable bolt, for your throw, for a solid stop.

Danny at Brewer's would be more then happy to elaborate on other differences.

Steve...Love the "shitters". LOL

Hey thanks Giles, I will get in touch with Brewers...dint wanna have to buy new rods, to use the Comp dangit...:violent1:

 

[Bad Sport]

Ok ok I give....Lol I will re-word my question...
Which is the better shitter ???

Bwahahahahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa rayer:

 

[RustyRatRod]

They are the EXACT SAME shifters. The factory used the Competition Plus. It was unmarked so that the factory could have an OEM part number, instead of an aftermarket number. There is ZERO difference other than the stamped name.

 

['73red-duster]

I'm voting with Rusty on this one.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Having rebuilt BUNCHES of each kind, I can tell you from experience they are the same.

 

[ssba]

Having rebuilt BUNCHES of each kind, I can tell you from experience they are the same.

I have never noticed a difference other than the stop bolts and the bolt on handle.
Some might have a grease zerk also.
I have drilled and tapped to gain the stop bolts and cut and drilled to convert to the bolt on handle many times. Hardened need a sharp bit.
If while you are rebuilding it if you notice the top pivot tube has lots of wear you can reinstall it in the reverse direction to wear the other side of the pin. Will take some of the slop and binding out of a wore mechanism. And save the cost and time getting a rebuild kit.
If I didn't have the correct rods I would use any old Chevy, ford whatever cheap rods and cut them up and make what I needed out of old tire irons. Been doing this for decades without a fail. I know it sounds crazy but they actually work better than the originals, less flexing. Have you ever bent a tire iron, your shifter wouldn't be able to bend one. And the steel they make them out of has memory like a breaker bar. So they return to shape even if you could bend it.
I better quit now before everyone figures out I grew up in a junkyard.