whats the difference....I dont know

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trudysduster

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I have a clearance problem with a 440 in the Duster with the exhaust manifold and the steering column shaft. I have read many places where the 383 will give you more room. Where at. I thought the blocks were the same BB pretty much. My question is would I be better suited when I build this engine this winter to put 383 heads back on the 440 block. Will they fit and more so will they give me any more room at this location. I just bought a DS exhaust manifold # 2863409 to give me the clearance I think I need but more would be better. I know nothing about a 383 except they ran good in a 68 Road Runner my friend has. So let me know if this will make any difference. Thanks
 
383 heads and 440 heads are the same.

The difference is in the block casting.

440 is about an inch taller and a bit wider.

This positions the exhaust ports in the heads differently and can affect where the header pipes go. and their angle.
 
I had heard certain c body manifolds helped without choking flow. I have no idea if true
 
If you're thinking about going to a low deck engine, use a 400 and build a 451. That will essentially be the same as a 440, but in a low deck platform and you will have more room for exhaust.
 
If you're thinking about going to a low deck engine, use a 400 and build a 451. That will essentially be the same as a 440, but in a low deck platform and you will have more room for exhaust.
I am not thinking about going 400. I was just trying to figure out why a 383 gave you more clearance and whether it would help me. Since they are the same heads, I will just carry on. I think that c body exhaust manifold will work out.
 
Because the deck of the block is lower on B vs RB which means the RB (440)engine is about an inch wider.
 
Same thing that makes the difference between the big block Chevy passenger car and tall deck truck blocks.
 
You may be able to loosen the motor mounts, then raise / lower as needed, the holes are slotted so you can 'roll' it away from where your clearance is tight then bolt it back down.

If you are using a motor plate, then you can accomplish the same thing with shims.
 
I am not thinking about going 400. I was just trying to figure out why a 383 gave you more clearance and whether it would help me. Since they are the same heads, I will just carry on. I think that c body exhaust manifold will work out.

Bill, although the heads ARE the same, the blocks are where the difference is. And that makes a BIG difference regarding exhaust room.

Just imagine the engine in its simplest form. The letter "V". The higher the legs of the V are, the WIDER the engine is. The 440 is a good bit taller than a 383 or 400, so it is wider also, which results in less room for exhaust, so going to a low deck engine like using a 400 block WILL HELP YOU.

But I am like you. If the C body manifold will get the job done, use it. It will be way cheaper than a whole nuther motor. lol.
 
you might try loosening the floor plate on the steering column, and move it a small amount in the direction u need, the holes are a little bigger than the studs. I`ve even thot about elongating mine a little.
 
you might try loosening the floor plate on the steering column, and move it a small amount in the direction u need, the holes are a little bigger than the studs. I`ve even thot about elongating mine a little.

done that.
 
I've used the 68-70 B body manifolds on several of these with 440s. I did grind the manifold a little but I also used elephant ear mounts that allowed me to move the engine over a little too.
 
Dims from the chassis book.................
EngDims.gif
 
383 heads and 440 heads are the same.

The difference is in the block casting.

440 is about an inch taller and a bit wider.

This positions the exhaust ports in the heads differently and can affect where the header pipes go. and their angle.
To be exact here. a RB (440 block) is .745" taller than a B (383-400) block.

Tom
 
I am guessing your running a power steering box?

I just removed my power steering box and replaced it with the manual box. This will also allow me to modify the box mounting

plate and move it 3/4" more to the outside. I have a 440 going in my Duster, but I am also using a small u-joint on the box and a

3/4" tubular shaft since my car is race only. You can get the 440 to work in there you just have to be willing to play around a little.

Tom
 
In order to run B-body HP manifolds you will need to shorten the outer sleeve on the steering column up to the firewall...
 
I am guessing your running a power steering box?

I just removed my power steering box and replaced it with the manual box. This will also allow me to modify the box mounting

plate and move it 3/4" more to the outside. I have a 440 going in my Duster, but I am also using a small u-joint on the box and a

3/4" tubular shaft since my car is race only. You can get the 440 to work in there you just have to be willing to play around a little.

Tom

The 440 has been in there for about 15 years now. Didn't have a problem until I installed the Schumacher motor mounts. I guess that is when the engine was straight in the saddle. Now I have a clearance problem in the back of the DS head where the very back bolt goes through the exhaust manifold. I guess these are problems I should have encountered back 15 years ago when this motor was put in the car if the guy had installed it right.
 
The first time I did it I had a bet with restrictions. It was a 383 B wedge, 2bbl with logs out of a '68 Fury. I had the driver's side angle-milled to bring the rear end in and tweak the angle of the discharge in towards the block. With some grinding of the coupler, and a little grinding on the manifold's exterior, it dropped in. I did have to fab up the driver's mounting bracket but it went in with no parts purchased so I won the bet.
 
The first time I did it I had a bet with restrictions. It was a 383 B wedge, 2bbl with logs out of a '68 Fury. I had the driver's side angle-milled to bring the rear end in and tweak the angle of the discharge in towards the block. With some grinding of the coupler, and a little grinding on the manifold's exterior, it dropped in. I did have to fab up the driver's mounting bracket but it went in with no parts purchased so I won the bet.

I just hope I don't have a problem with the exhaust pipe. My exhaust man is good but there isn't a lot of clearance to work with.
 
I have a clearance problem with a 440 in the Duster with the exhaust manifold and the steering column shaft. I have read many places where the 383 will give you more room. Where at. I thought the blocks were the same BB pretty much. My question is would I be better suited when I build this engine this winter to put 383 heads back on the 440 block. Will they fit and more so will they give me any more room at this location. I just bought a DS exhaust manifold # 2863409 to give me the clearance I think I need but more would be better. I know nothing about a 383 except they ran good in a 68 Road Runner my friend has. So let me know if this will make any difference. Thanks
I hope I don't sound rude , but the first thing you should do is buy a book about big blocks. Knowing the difference between a B and an RB is fundamental.
 
I really dont think moving the steering box side to side is a good idea. Even for a race only car. That box is a pivot point for the centerlink and you will upset the geometry if you move it. Theres a reason the centerlink,idler arm and steering box have no provision for adjustment.
 
I just hope I don't have a problem with the exhaust pipe. My exhaust man is good but there isn't a lot of clearance to work with.
When I built mine I was bending custom exhaust. There is more room to stick a pipe on there than room around the steering. BTW - the car was a PS car when I was done. Never touched the column or box.
 
I hope I don't sound rude , but the first thing you should do is buy a book about big blocks. Knowing the difference between a B and an RB is fundamental.

not a problem. I don't pay any attention to rude people.
 
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