What's too hot?

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wazoo64

wazoo64

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Things are heating up in SoCal and I am starting notice my temp creaping up to 190-195 when driving around town. It comes back down fairly quick but curious what is the red zone for a stroker. Until recently I have been running no higher than 182 degrees. Only 1500 miles on a new build and new radiator.
 
Once I get the car moving on the highway the temp comes down to 180 but sitting in traffic it will warm up to 190-195
 
A proper mix of antifreeeze and water boils around 235F
add 4F for each lb pressure on your rad cap

under 200 is definately not a problem
 
Your fine....mine got up to 230* the other day cause my thermostat stuck on me on the way home....I was waiting for it to boil over but it never did.
 
Running just under 200 is ok with these cars, as Goody mentioned the factory thermostats were 195 `s. There`s actually less wear on the engine if you run on the hot side. I believe you` re fine.
 
I think my bypass hose is giving me false readings to my temp gauge.
 
LJS30 said:
Couldn't that temp still blow a head gasket though?
Click to expand...

No, you won't blow a head gasket at that temp. Some race motors get that hot and hotter in some cases. Air cooled motors get quite a bit hotter than that. Granted those motors have the best parts, but if you use quality gaskets it won't be a problem. The weakest part of high heat is the oil or coolant, but oils and coolants today are so much better than they were that this not an issue now if you use the "good" stuff.

Chuck
 
It's cooled down in SoCal and I am still running up to 212 degrees in traffic. Here's the scenario:
New 2 row copper radiator 28inch wide x 19 tall
2 new hayden fans...no shroud
160 deg stat
I tried no stat with just a restrictor and same results.

When the car is cruising faster than 50 MPH it stays cool. Stop and go is the problem.

Any ideas besides going to an alunimum set up with shrouds. Can I make this set up work?

Will a 190 deg stat help?

The motor is brand new and tuned by a good performance shop. The odd thing is that it ran cool for the first 500 miles.
 
only 2 rows? maybe 3 would help + a shroud? it is pretty darn hot right now though
 
fwaugh said:
It's cooled down in SoCal and I am still running up to 212 degrees in traffic. Here's the scenario:
New 2 row copper radiator 28inch wide x 19 tall
2 new hayden fans...no shroud
160 deg stat
I tried no stat with just a restrictor and same results.

When the car is cruising faster than 50 MPH it stays cool. Stop and go is the problem.

Any ideas besides going to an alunimum set up with shrouds. Can I make this set up work?

Will a 190 deg stat help?

The motor is brand new and tuned by a good performance shop. The odd thing is that it ran cool for the first 500 miles.
Click to expand...

If you have a "built" motor rather than stock I would definitely step up to a 3 or 4 roll radiator. Temperature of 212 is still in the OK area but I would shoot to stay under 200 in the same conditions.
 
my 98 jeep runs right at 210 constantly. but thats the factory gauge
 
I had problems with mine when I had an electric fan on mine.
It was a 14 in.fan. I got , I think a truck rad. in mine. About
2 to 2 1/2 thick. I went back to the stock clutch fan and its
OK. I run a 160 degree stat. Gets up to about 160-170. Just
my input. Good luck, Brian.
 
Is there any chance that I am heating up because I went from a Milodon 8 quart pan to a stock pan. I just realized this problem started after changing the pan. Is this coincidence or will the car stay cooler with more oil capacity?
 
fwaugh said:
It's cooled down in SoCal and I am still running up to 212 degrees in traffic. Here's the scenario:
New 2 row copper radiator 28inch wide x 19 tall
2 new hayden fans...no shroud
160 deg stat
I tried no stat with just a restrictor and same results.

When the car is cruising faster than 50 MPH it stays cool. Stop and go is the problem.

Any ideas besides going to an alunimum set up with shrouds. Can I make this set up work?

Will a 190 deg stat help?

The motor is brand new and tuned by a good performance shop. The odd thing is that it ran cool for the first 500 miles.
Click to expand...


a mechanical fan and a shroud.
 
Since the issue is only at slower speeds - little air movement and relatively light engine load - the problem appears to be air-flow through the radiator core. Whether it is resolved via electric or mechanical fan(s) - a shroud may be key ... whatever it takes to get the air to get through the radiator.

Since there is not an issue with highway speeds, when the motor is pumping harder, it would appear that the radiator is sufficient to cool the motor.
 
i would still get a 3 row hi efficiency core in that rad. it allows more water in so it cools more water at a time. also run a milodon/mr.gasket thermostat 180*. throw the stant in the metal recycling.
 
Are running a 50/50 mix? More anti-freeze = higher temps typically. Something to check and rule out at least since I see nobody mentioned it...
 
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