NudeHemidude
Well-Known Member
This happens a lot and it used to mean the death of the car.In my initial "What's wrong with this picture" post I was feeling kinda cocky, and I'll admit I had consumed a couple adult beverages while posting that one.
This post is semi-related to that one, but now things are more serious.
Recall I'm working on a RHD, 1971 Valiant VG from Oz, and I removed the front suspension, k-member, and steering, as the owner had (past tense) a complete rebuild kit in the trunk. Yesterday I got (almost) everything ready for re-installation, and this morning I decided to clean-up the area around the frame-mounted steering box (the subject of my initial post), as this was the area that suffered the most from that God-awful upside-down engine mounted oil filter (one of my first posts on this site).
Well, let's just say it's a damn good thing I've done all of this work, as here's what I discovered when I started cleaning/degreasing around the steering box:
Initial "WTF?" shot:
View attachment 1716130652
And then another with the steering box removed and things cleaned-up a bit:
View attachment 1716130653
I haven't broken out the grinding wheels/discs yet to see the full extent of the crack(s), but it's bad enough that I can physically move the two frame sections side-to-side with just my bare hands if I push/pull really hard at the bottom. (There's a similar crack on the outer part of the frame, but the pictures I took are too dark and blurry.)
Bazza always said the front end was "loose", and that's the reason he bought the front-end kit from Oz. But to be perfectly honest, the bushings and tie rods that I worked with were bad, but not "that bad". Looks like I just found the proverbial "smoking gun" here.
What really sucks (insert my whine here) is we recently moved here, and I don't have 240V power in the outbuilding (yet) to run my wire feed.
Not sure how I'm going to handle this just yet (rent/buy a 115V welder, hire this out, run 240 power...), but thought I would just pass along this little Oddity from Oz to y'all while I start opening-up more adult beverages and contemplating what to do next.
Heading towards Comfortably Numb,
Jim
Very few people are prepared to fix them even today.
There are two ways most guys handle it - one is with a sleeve over the top which doesn't really make the problem go away. (Chassis Rail Repair Sleeve (Right Hand) : suit VE/VF/VG/VH/VJ/VK/CL/CM)
I did this repair more than 15 years ago and it is still holding up well.
The better way, in my opinion, is to cut out the bad bit and replace it.
Bruce at Blue Star Garage sells a repair section that has all the internal gussets to replace the bad/rusty section (Rust Repair | bluestargarage).
His instructions are super-detailed and he include 95 photos of the process. Send me your email address and I'll send you the photos if that helps.
I have bought a few of these pieces for my cars but I haven't done the repair yet.