Wheel bearing install help

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nm9stheham said:
See what you started ?!? lol
Click to expand...

hahaha I know! I never imagined such a simple question to escalate into such a big discussion about the same thing! I guess I make simple questions into long drawn out and confusing ones and I take full responsibility! LOL But at least I got the problem figured out :D
 
RustyRatRod lives more dangerous than the rest of us. I always back off to the next slot after finger-tight (first tightening w/ wrench & spinning). One guy here pushed it slightly too tight and his bearings smoked in a few miles. I once had the bearings changed in my 69 Dart (9" drum) during a cross-country trip and one outer failed after 300 miles (rollers fell out, race spun in hub ruining it, center welded to spindle). The other outer spun in the hub a few years later. I closely watched the mechanic install the bearings, and had done so myself before. I never figured what he did wrong. One slot too tight can make all the difference.
 
I will lean towards the snug side. Taper bearings are not designed to have ANY play in them. Just think about the shape of the race and the taper of the rollers. Now Ball bearing is a different animal. These were used years ago in wheel bearings. They were meant to load and roll in the centers of the inner and outer race, therefore were not designed to have preload.
 
Two pages of this. And all one has to do is read the service manual. Wonder "what we did" before Al Gore invented the internet? I can tell you what I did. I still have it. I let the 69 manual go when I sold the 69 in about 71. But I've kept the 70 manual all these years, for no good reason. It's missing the front few pages, and I've lost the VIN to the car
 
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