Wheel Stud replacement

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SD_R/T

SD_R/T

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So I am in the middle of replacing a stripped wheel stud. It's one of the 'left hand' threaded studs. I stripped it when putting the wheel back on after replacing the rear shocks. Old and just wore out, I guess.

Anyhow, I figured it was as good a time as any to switch it over to RH thread. I ordered what I thought to be correct RH stud (I have 9" rear drums): Dorman part #610-186.

I get the old stud out no problem and when I compare the little ridges to the replacement stud, they look way off. Am I seeing things? Did I order the wrong part? If anyone can point me in the right direction I'd certainly appreciate it.

Sorry in advance for the blurry pic.
View attachment 1 094.jpg
 
Looks like you ordered the wrong part. I don't know what the right part number is from that company. Any of your local auto part stores should have them in stock so you shouldn't have to order them. I used to get mine from Advance.
 
RockAuto catalog lists it (610-186) as being 7/16-20 with .472 knurl for following application: rear w/out Posi. Summit's website seemed to confirm it. Actually bought the part from Autozone and the part # on the baggie matched up.
 
the ridges are just to help it bite a bit and keep it from turning. As long as it fits i really don't think you will have a big issue. Just keep in mind your not supposed to tighten your lug nuts as much as your impact gun possibly can either. not saying your one of those guys but some people are.
 
SirDan said:
the ridges are just to help it bite a bit and keep it from turning. As long as it fits i really don't think you will have a big issue.
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So the little ridge pattern doesn't matter? The ridge pattern on the old stud seemed to match the pattern on the wheel flange pretty well - kinda like it would 'lock' into place. The ridges on the new stud appear to be wider and don't seem like they would line up. I didn't try jamming them in there.

SirDan said:
Just keep in mind your not supposed to tighten your lug nuts as much as your impact gun possibly can either. not saying your one of those guys but some people are.
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Haha. Agreed. Mine got stripped without an impact gun. Was just getting them started with a wrench. 40+ yr old steel I guess.
 
Yeah I had to replace one on my rear drums as well, Im pretty sure thats what they are. Be sure to use washers to pull the stud snug...ya dont want to strip the hole...been dare dun dat
 
4spdragtop said:
...ya dont want to strip the hole...been dare dun dat
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That's why I didn't try fitting it in there yet - I thought perhaps squeezing it in there with the two different ridge patterns might do just that! Figured it was better to ask the question first :D



Edit: looked at the supposed NAPA part (Balkamp) for the application and it sure looks similar to the Dorman version.
 
SD_R/T said:
That's why I didn't try fitting it in there yet - I thought perhaps squeezing it in there with the two different ridge patterns might do just that! Figured it was better to ask the question first :D



Edit: looked at the supposed NAPA part (Balkamp) for the application and it sure looks similar to the Dorman version.
Click to expand...
I just replaced mine and that is what the replacement look like. You won't find studs that look like the old ones anywhere. I used a press and they went in nice and tight and they work fine.
 
When you strip the splines out of the hub you have no choise but to step up to a larger diameter knurl. The vendors cant know if you've striped the hub or only the threads so they offere a part to solve either or
 
The pattern in the hub was cut by the knurling on the original stud. If the replacement is the right dia. it will work fine.
 
Thanks to all who weighed in. Indeed it fit in there. (that's what she said)
 
speaking of wheel studs,i have 1/2" studs on my race car,can i drill and tapped them out and install 5/8" studs
 
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