Wheel/Tire help for 68 notchback barracuda

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I just bought a 68 Notchback that is for the most part in excellent all-original condition. This is great, except for the original wheels and tires it’s sitting on. I’d like to upgrade the wheels and tires and am looking for some information/advice:

1. I’d like to go to a 15” wheel. What bolt pattern and width should I be looking for so that I don’t need any additional spacers/hardware/etc. to fit? Or will that be inevitable with a wider wheel? I’m looking to bolt and go.
2. What kind of tires should I be looking at? 60 series? 50? I’d like to fill the wheel wells (without rubbing, obviously). Brand recommendations would also be greatly appreciated.
3. I’m most interested in a chrome 5-spoke, such as a Cragar S/S or Keystone Klassic. Are there other wheels that have a similar look and a comparable price to consider?

If anyone is feeling EXTRA helpful, a recommended tire and wheel package would help out a lot.

Thank you!

SweetMoparGirl
 
Are you staying sbp or grading up to lbp, mini tub and spring relocation or stock ? I like Torq Thrust 2 in chrome also A wheel called Rev 100 in chrome looks just like Torq Thrust with out the ridges.
You need to measure to see what kind of room you have for wheel space. Once you have that established ,fit tire to wheel. I'm going through the same thing right now . I up graded to lbp and did the mini tub and spring relocate. Should be able to run a 12" tire I hope.
 
Cool, congrats sweetmopargirl, I'm very happy for you, a 68 notchback can hold some really large rims on the back (15x10), but to avoid problems with tire rub I recommend going with a 15X8" on the rear and for some contrast 15X5.5" or 6 on the front. Important to deal with someone that really knows there backspacing and forward spacing when buying rims, inorder to get the right stance for your car. Sorry I would measure the backspacing off my notchback for you, but my car is at a different location. If your car still has the small bolt pattern and you don't want to spend money to convert to the bigger size, there still is a large selection of new rims available for small bolt (checkout Summit's website it will give you some visuals). Most Mopars I see that are street cars, usually are running on B.F Goodrich. If I'm not mistaken a 60 series tire will have a taller side wall then a 50 series.
Sweet Mopar Girl post some pics of your new ride or you know the routine on here, everyone will bug you about it.
 
In order to fill up the rear wheel well, you might have to raise the rear to get the maximum effect. On my FB, I installed the S/S springs. Steel wheels are 15" x 7" w/4.25" backspace. Front tire size is 215-70-15's. Rear tire size is 275-60-15's. I had to add a 1/2" spacer to keep the tires from rubbing on the leaf springs. This should give you an idea of how big you can go without too many modifications.
 
15x7 rims with 4.25 backspace is optimum. You can go 215/60/15 in the front and 225/60/15 in the rear or 235/60/15.

You can get 15x7 rims with 4.25 backspace in ralley rims with your 5 on 4" lug pattern made by Wheel Vintiques. Try www.SummitRacing.com but may have to call for the 5 on 4" lug pattern.

A lot of the people running wider rear tires have new springs that raise the back and give them more clearance. I'll assume you rear leaf spring are original.

These are 15x7 rims with 4.25" backspacing and 225/60/15 front tires and 225/60/15 rear tires on my Barracuda at one time.
 

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S/S springs will definitely raise the back of the car, but they can also raise it a bit too high and make the car look like a door wedge. I had to put a couple of metal blocks under my S/S springs to bring the *** down a bit. S.M.G if you go with a BF Goodrich P245 60 R15 on the rear, you should'nt require a spacer or any kind of modication, that tire will mount on 15X8" no problem (all depends on the look you desire), if you start going wider with the tire (255,265,275) it will blung out from the rim and then tire rub becomes more of a risk. Proper backspacing will allow for clearance from the leaf springs and also have the tire sit just in from the wheel opening lip, so if you have people in the back seat the car will not be sitting on top of the tires. Need to be careful with the width of the front rims, so the tires do not catch on the corner of the fender when you have the steering wheel fully cranked.
 
This is my 69 notch barracuda when it still had std width diff,std springs in std location.Standard tubs.
The rims are 15x8.5 centerline autodrags 4 7/8" backspace with 15x9x28 slick (identical dimensions to 275/60/15 street rubber)

2rx7ec8.jpg


Since the above pic it now has mopar SS springs,mopar offset hangers and a narrower diff.Still with standard tubs.
I still use the same rims to race on but can now fit 15x10.5x28 slick.I still use 275/60/15 for street rubber.

13zx4eb.jpg


Just a few more possibilities for you to think over!!!
 
Welcome.
For affordable bolt on and go I would consider the small bolt pattern factory 14 inch rallye wheels recently listed in for sale here.
 
Lets see pics!! I remember you posted an ebay link to a 68 notch you were thinking about...is that the one?? Anyway I am going to do the same with my 69 eventually and 15" small bolt pattern rims are hard to find...apparently never made from the factory, so you will have to order new ones and they are probably pricy. There are more options for the 15" rim with large bolt pattern. Good luck and post some darn pics!!
 
Welcome.
For affordable bolt on and go I would consider the small bolt pattern factory 14 inch rallye wheels recently listed in for sale here.

Good suggustion. But do they come with the small bolt center caps? Those are expensive. Be nice to find the whole setup used.
 
I just upgraded my 67 val sedan to 15 " bbp steelies. 235/60 frnt , 245/60 rear. Depending where you are at I got a set of small bolt ralleys with centres and rings.pm me if interested.
 
Just a bit of info on tire sizes, using theoretical numbers for reference only...

The numbers that designate the tire size can be read as such..

First number)- "255"= the width of the tread in millimeters, or 255mm
Second number- "60"= the height of the tire sidewall in relation to the tread width, in this case 60% of 255mm
Third number- "15"= the rim size, or 15" in this case

So, you want to fill up the wheelwell?? You need to consider the maximum width of the tire you can run according to the backspace of the rim and rim width. To measure backspace, place a straightedge across the back lip of the rim and measure down to the flange that sits on the drum, voila, your rim backspacing. Now measure from the front edge of the drum where the wheel would mount to the point where a tire or rim would rub against the leaf spring, voila, the maximum backspacing you can run.

Now, to find the maximum width rim you can run, do just the opposite. Measure from the front of the drum to the edge of the wheel lip and add that number to your backspacing, and voila, maximum rim width!! Now, you need to make amends for the fact that the tire will stick out past the rim lip, and need to decrease your rim width by about 1" on both sides. Now, take your desired rim width to your tire store and ask what is the widest tire you can run on that rim, then calculate the height of the tire according to the first number of the tire as suggested above.

If you want to run 15" tires, you're simply gonna have to buy aftermarket wheels with the 4" bolt pattern, which are very hard to find in 5 spoke and Klassic, unless you can use the uni-lug design. You may find that spacers are your only option, but research will surely turn up more answers on this!!

Good luck with your project, hope this helps a little!! geof
 
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