Wheelie Bars

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Kegan B

Kegan B

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Figured out!! Thanks!!!!!!!
 
Good to have a track with lots of "Bite"..... Wheelie Bar time....

I think you would have had better results short shifting it..... Thats what I would have tried... Just my 2 cents...
 
stay off the brake and the convertor. any wheelie bar kit will work, just pick the one that fits your budget. try tying the front down so the hotrod has to lift the suspension up from the get go.
 
Looks like the car needs front shocks more than wheelie bars.

Whats the deal with the flagging start?
 
Sissy sticks, ha. I can't see the videos here at work so I'll ask, Are you running Caltracs, SS springs, or ladders with a floater?
 
OK, now that I've seen the videos and know what you're using I'm going to offer some suggestions, some will be easier and cheaper than others.

The first thing I see is the car is too high in the back. You need to raise the front spring eye up into the frame more, even some blocks between the axle and the springs will help just keep about a 5* nose down pinion angle. BTW what is the angle now?

Secondly, raise the front end some and then limit the suspension travel to an inch or so. This you will have to experiment with.

Good adjustable shocks will really help here too. The QA1 12 ways are very good. Again you'll need to experiment.

Wheelie bars do not work well with SS springs. You could also go to the CalTrac full set up so you can get a spring with the arch you need to get the rear down plus the adjustability will allow you to calm the car down.

And finally you or the driver seems to be a bit scared to carry the wheelstand out. When ever my car is in the air I never let out of it unless it's going to hit the wall or the tree or the car in the next lane. Ride it out or shift it but stay in it unless you are going to crash. Look to your left to see where the car is pointed.
 
I`m not afraid to ride it out but both times it didn`t go straight.the track is narrow and sheet metal is too hard too find. on the second pass i had different snubbers on the front. I ordered a set of drag shocks for the front this am. can`t lower the rear without cutting up the car or narrowing the dana.
 
I agree with guitar jones on all points , the car has to be lowered and if you have to put a wheel that fits in the wheel tub then so be it . The stored energy in your front suspension is not helping you either , put a shock with some rebound damping on it and slow the pitch rotation . If you are cheep and don't want to do any of this just put more air in the rears and let it spin out of the hole instead of dead hooking like you are doing now .
One more option is to put a MSD grid ignition box on it and kill timing out of launch for a few .10s

At any rate it's just a matter of time before your luck runs out and a mishap will make your decision for you.
 
he needs to ride it out,get those ss springs off there get cal tracs on there and there mono leafs,plus that rear needs to come down,mine is up high but cant lower mine or the tires will hit the quarters
 
That looks like Brown County Dragway....SKINNY track....Scary too.

I would start by dropping the back of the car down a LOT and possibly raising the front a hair (get it sitting more level). After that add a little weight to the nose of the car, limit the travel of the front suspension a little if it still wants to stand on it's rear. Its going to take some tuning...by the way, what does your car run in the 1/8 (or 1/4)?

Do you have any extra weight in the back of that thing?
 
flyfish said:
That looks like Brown County Dragway....SKINNY track....Scary too.

I would start by dropping the back of the car down a LOT and possibly raising the front a hair (get it sitting more level). After that add a little weight to the nose of the car, limit the travel of the front suspension a little if it still wants to stand on it's rear. Its going to take some tuning...by the way, what does your car run in the 1/8 (or 1/4)?

Do you have any extra weight in the back of that thing?
Click to expand...
Yep its Brown County. No extra weight. THIS CAR WILL NOT BE CUT UP.
 
SP3188 said:
I`m not afraid to ride it out but both times it didn`t go straight.the track is narrow and sheet metal is too hard too find. on the second pass i had different snubbers on the front. I ordered a set of drag shocks for the front this am. can`t lower the rear without cutting up the car or narrowing the dana.
Click to expand...

OK, I understand about the narrow track and all. If the car isn't going straight you'll still need to do something about it though. I had a 29.5x11.5 tire on a 10" rim with a stock width rear axle in my Duster. It was mini tubbed and the springs moved inboard. I had to massage the front and rear of the wheel opening but they fit in there with some room to spare.

That may be a better deal than what you have now. As stated earlier the stored energy you have there is just asking for trouble. If you don't want to cut the car then CalTracs are probably your best solution.
 
Check your tire diameter.
If they are not the same this will cause your car not to go straight.
 
womanator said:
Check your tire diameter.
If they are not the same this will cause your car not to go straight.
Click to expand...

Even better, check the tire circumference after adjusting air pressure to the correct amount. Checking the circumference will make it easier to check for any difference in dimension since the circumference is more than 3 times the diameter.
 
First post deleted and videos taken down ??

You say that you have it figured out .What have you figured out ??
 
Here

Chris Alston Wheelie bars
 

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