When is it time to throw in the towel?

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From your avater the car looks pretty straight.
How about posting up some pics of the "problem" areas ?
 
My kids are grown but all still live at home, i'd gladly give one up to somebody in exchange for work on the Duster.

Bob
 
Here is an old trick that will let you determine how much bondo is in the car, without sanding on it.
Take a common refrigerator magnet and go around the car, if it sticks you have metal, if it falls off you have bondo.
This will not cost you a dime and it will let you know how good or bad it is.
 
ok heres a few, I believe its the just the begging of the bondo cracking, the drip rails are rusted out (but i was thinking since they were going, might as well shave them) and a few other cracks in the levy. Gotta remember it looks worse in person. Trust me guys, im not ashamed to drive it.
 

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Having restored many cars in my very long life, I say always start with the best platform you can afford. It is usually true, and especially so in this economy, that you can buy someone elses project for less than you could have got there yourself.
If you do that, with a partially done project, you can still have the joy of "doing it yourself". Many cars that are "done by owner" still have a lot of work farmed out.
Just like in business, you sometimes reach the point where you must not throw "good money after bad".
I say start with another platform, but only if it is as bad as you are told it is. Get under it, poke around with a dull screwdriver, and post pics here. There is a whole bunch of expertise on this site.
Your situtation, as stated so far, is very hypothetical. Get factual with pictures, and the advice you get here will be "solid" (no pun intended, lol).
 
old mopars said:
Having restored many cars in my very long life, I say always start with the best platform you can afford. It is usually true, and especially so in this economy, that you can buy someone elses project for less than you could have got there yourself.
If you do that, with a partially done project, you can still have the joy of "doing it yourself". Many cars that are "done by owner" still have a lot of work farmed out.
Just like in business, you sometimes reach the point where you must not throw "good money after bad".
I say start with another platform, but only if it is as bad as you are told it is. Get under it, poke around with a dull screwdriver, and post pics here. There is a whole bunch of expertise on this site.
Your situtation, as stated so far, is very hypothetical. Get factual with pictures, and the advice you get here will be "solid" (no pun intended, lol).
Click to expand...

Would you continue with the drive train and just transfer it since its still driveable but not long term? I think this is what i had in mind when i started this thread, i guess i wanted to hear from other guys on different avenues. and since we can not go back in time and buy a new platform, Im thinking thats the best route to go.
 
sireland67 said:
Here is an old trick that will let you determine how much bondo is in the car, without sanding on it.
Take a common refrigerator magnet and go around the car, if it sticks you have metal, if it falls off you have bondo.
This will not cost you a dime and it will let you know how good or bad it is.
Click to expand...

great tip man, i completely forgot that one. gonna go give it a shot right now. thanks man
 
ok quick update, using sireland67's tip, I noticed the guy(s) i took it to had to be pricing me wayyyy high. Just ran a magnet over the whole car and yeah theres spots but nothing that cant be worked. Big boost of confidence. I can't believe I forgot the magnet trick. feeling a lot better about the whole car now.
 
daredevil said:
Youve already thrown in the towel. Just asking that question says you dont have the dedication to see it thru.Building cars isnt for everyone. I enjoy it but theres times I didnt want to dedicate the time. Save your coin and find a finished car you like.They cost twice to build what they are worth.
Click to expand...

Pretty harsh judgement, doncha think?

As he asks this question, I'm thinking of sitting in MY shoes. I'm 62, have what has become some pretty severe arthritis, and can no longer get on my knees, squat, or crawl under a car. I've bought a chassis hoist and erected it in the back yard, and simply have to slow down on everything I do

I WILL NOT BE DOING ANY BODYWORK ANYTIME SOON.

Dedication has nothing to do with it.
 
Couple of questions/comments. I bought "rust free" :---)CA. car. There was rust on the quarter/extension and of course the trunk. My Fairlane was also a "rust free" CA. car, I guess floor boards were optional back in 64. Point is just cuz a car came from CA. does not mean it did not spend part of its life somewhere else. For the bids you got, what was included?
 
OCswinger said:
Hey guys,

I'm in the need of some guidance. I purchase my first Dart on November 1st and I finally got around to getting estimates on the paint and body. Ive got two quotes today one for 15k, the other for 13k. Turns out my ole girl is full of bondo. Those quotes would cover the removal of bondo and paint and what ever else is needed. Both shops have also said there is no guarantee of removing all the rust. I am by no means in a financial spot to pay some one that kind of cash and I am not as gifted as some of the members here when it comes to body work. My question is this, when is too much just too much to continue on with your car?
Click to expand...

If your going go that far and they say all might not be gone, why not just contact US Car Tool (the guys that sell those really cool frame connectors) and do their body in White program? Go check out their website, might be a good way to go.
 
Before you give up on the classes, you might talk to yout local tech school and see if they can offer flexible classes around your work schedule. Most schools have day and night classes. No reason in the world why you could alternate between the two. You wouldn't be the first.
 
inkjunkie said:
Couple of questions/comments. I bought "rust free" :---)CA. car. There was rust on the quarter/extension and of course the trunk. My Fairlane was also a "rust free" CA. car, I guess floor boards were optional back in 64. Point is just cuz a car came from CA. does not mean it did not spend part of its life somewhere else. For the bids you got, what was included?
Click to expand...

well the guys both told me they would take it down to metal, patch the bondo areas, "try and fix" the drip rails, and paint. and to be perfectly honest when they said 15k i pretty much checked out of that conversation. But like most of the FABO guys have pointed out, deff need to shop around and, after doing the whole magnet check im thinking they saw a check book coming their way.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Before you give up on the classes, you might talk to yout local tech school and see if they can offer flexible classes around your work schedule. Most schools have day and night classes. No reason in the world why you could alternate between the two. You wouldn't be the first.
Click to expand...

thats a great idea. Im gonna have to check into that. Id much rather do the work than have someone else do it for me. I had a integra i used to beat around town and finally sold it due to the fact i couldn't work on it. it looked like a Chinese puzzle with French writing. Thanks for the heads up. Theres a college that has a great auto tech class no more then 5 miles from me.
 
OCswinger said:
ok quick update, using sireland67's tip, I noticed the guy(s) i took it to had to be pricing me wayyyy high. Just ran a magnet over the whole car and yeah theres spots but nothing that cant be worked. Big boost of confidence. I can't believe I forgot the magnet trick. feeling a lot better about the whole car now.
Click to expand...

Good news, glad I could help.
 
sireland67 said:
Here is an old trick that will let you determine how much bondo is in the car, without sanding on it.
Take a common refrigerator magnet and go around the car, if it sticks you have metal, if it falls off you have bondo.
This will not cost you a dime and it will let you know how good or bad it is.
Click to expand...

Magnet is a great idea. I have looked at hundreds of cars that way. But instead of a refrigerator magnet, which unless you are a Frgidaire, you may not always have along, I use a magnetic business card which I keep in my wallet. Always on the ready, even when I did not think I would be looking at a car that day.
BTW, auto etiquette, always ask the car owner before touchiing his car with anything, even just your bare hand. Some guys, you know the ones, with the signs that say, "look but don't touch" types to which I am referring. No one has ever said no. If they did, I would assume high bondo content, thank them and keep moving.
 
1970Duster said:
If your going go that far and they say all might not be gone, why not just contact US Car Tool (the guys that sell those really cool frame connectors) and do their body in White program? Go check out their website, might be a good way to go.
Click to expand...

Man, thats awesome. A little too pricey right now but that is a cool process. thanks for the heads up. Just seeing the pics could give anyone hope with sticking their projects out till the end
 
That is a great idea...you can still enjoy driving it and working on it making everything as nice as you can...maybe you will find a good platform later when you are out enjoying the one you have
OCswinger said:
Would you continue with the drive train and just transfer it since its still driveable but not long term? I think this is what i had in mind when i started this thread, i guess i wanted to hear from other guys on different avenues. and since we can not go back in time and buy a new platform, Im thinking thats the best route to go.
Click to expand...
 
They quoted you that because they don't want the work.
 
crackedback said:
They quoted you that because they don't want the work.
Click to expand...
Exactly.......shops would much rather do simple insurance/collision repair work. 10-15 hours to replace a bumper cover/hood/fender for 5k beats the hell out of 300+ hours on an old car. My body guy is getting close to 300 hours or so on my car and it only had a small rust spot, 2"x4" on a 1/4. By the time all is said and done he will be lucky to make $15@hour, which is fine for a guy like him working on the side of his house but that will not even begin to pay the bills of a shop.....
 
67Dart273 said:
Pretty harsh judgement, doncha think?

As he asks this question, I'm thinking of sitting in MY shoes. I'm 62, have what has become some pretty severe arthritis, and can no longer get on my knees, squat, or crawl under a car. I've bought a chassis hoist and erected it in the back yard, and simply have to slow down on everything I do

I WILL NOT BE DOING ANY BODYWORK ANYTIME SOON.

Dedication has nothing to do with it.
Click to expand...

I have seen you reply to people a lot cruder than this. In reality I was applying a little reverse psychology. No man likes to hear someone tell them they cant do something. I smoked for thirty years and when I said I was gonna quit my kids laughed at me. Been smoke free almost 9 years. Human nature to try and prove people wrong when you dont like what they are saying. I was hoping this would be a kick in the pants.
 
Sorry guy's, but I have restored several A bodies, and yeah it's nice to say you did it yourself, but if you have never done bodywork, I would buy a car that's done, I bought my car just like it sit's for half what it would cost to restore one, I couldnt dream of building one like it for the price. It's a buyers market, there are some awesome deals out there! Just my opinion!
 
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