Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
From your avater the car looks pretty straight.
How about posting up some pics of the "problem" areas ?
How about posting up some pics of the "problem" areas ?
From your avater the car looks pretty straight.
How about posting up some pics of the "problem" areas ?
My kids are grown but all still live at home, i'd gladly give one up to somebody in exchange for work on the Duster.
Bob
Having restored many cars in my very long life, I say always start with the best platform you can afford. It is usually true, and especially so in this economy, that you can buy someone elses project for less than you could have got there yourself.
If you do that, with a partially done project, you can still have the joy of "doing it yourself". Many cars that are "done by owner" still have a lot of work farmed out.
Just like in business, you sometimes reach the point where you must not throw "good money after bad".
I say start with another platform, but only if it is as bad as you are told it is. Get under it, poke around with a dull screwdriver, and post pics here. There is a whole bunch of expertise on this site.
Your situtation, as stated so far, is very hypothetical. Get factual with pictures, and the advice you get here will be "solid" (no pun intended, lol).
Here is an old trick that will let you determine how much bondo is in the car, without sanding on it.
Take a common refrigerator magnet and go around the car, if it sticks you have metal, if it falls off you have bondo.
This will not cost you a dime and it will let you know how good or bad it is.
Youve already thrown in the towel. Just asking that question says you dont have the dedication to see it thru.Building cars isnt for everyone. I enjoy it but theres times I didnt want to dedicate the time. Save your coin and find a finished car you like.They cost twice to build what they are worth.
Hey guys,
I'm in the need of some guidance. I purchase my first Dart on November 1st and I finally got around to getting estimates on the paint and body. Ive got two quotes today one for 15k, the other for 13k. Turns out my ole girl is full of bondo. Those quotes would cover the removal of bondo and paint and what ever else is needed. Both shops have also said there is no guarantee of removing all the rust. I am by no means in a financial spot to pay some one that kind of cash and I am not as gifted as some of the members here when it comes to body work. My question is this, when is too much just too much to continue on with your car?
Couple of questions/comments. I bought "rust free" :---)CA. car. There was rust on the quarter/extension and of course the trunk. My Fairlane was also a "rust free" CA. car, I guess floor boards were optional back in 64. Point is just cuz a car came from CA. does not mean it did not spend part of its life somewhere else. For the bids you got, what was included?
Before you give up on the classes, you might talk to yout local tech school and see if they can offer flexible classes around your work schedule. Most schools have day and night classes. No reason in the world why you could alternate between the two. You wouldn't be the first.
ok quick update, using sireland67's tip, I noticed the guy(s) i took it to had to be pricing me wayyyy high. Just ran a magnet over the whole car and yeah theres spots but nothing that cant be worked. Big boost of confidence. I can't believe I forgot the magnet trick. feeling a lot better about the whole car now.
Here is an old trick that will let you determine how much bondo is in the car, without sanding on it.
Take a common refrigerator magnet and go around the car, if it sticks you have metal, if it falls off you have bondo.
This will not cost you a dime and it will let you know how good or bad it is.
If your going go that far and they say all might not be gone, why not just contact US Car Tool (the guys that sell those really cool frame connectors) and do their body in White program? Go check out their website, might be a good way to go.
Would you continue with the drive train and just transfer it since its still driveable but not long term? I think this is what i had in mind when i started this thread, i guess i wanted to hear from other guys on different avenues. and since we can not go back in time and buy a new platform, Im thinking thats the best route to go.
Exactly.......shops would much rather do simple insurance/collision repair work. 10-15 hours to replace a bumper cover/hood/fender for 5k beats the hell out of 300+ hours on an old car. My body guy is getting close to 300 hours or so on my car and it only had a small rust spot, 2"x4" on a 1/4. By the time all is said and done he will be lucky to make $15@hour, which is fine for a guy like him working on the side of his house but that will not even begin to pay the bills of a shop.....They quoted you that because they don't want the work.
Pretty harsh judgement, doncha think?
As he asks this question, I'm thinking of sitting in MY shoes. I'm 62, have what has become some pretty severe arthritis, and can no longer get on my knees, squat, or crawl under a car. I've bought a chassis hoist and erected it in the back yard, and simply have to slow down on everything I do
I WILL NOT BE DOING ANY BODYWORK ANYTIME SOON.
Dedication has nothing to do with it.