where do i disconnect the park brake?

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diymirage

diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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hey guys

when I get home from church today I'm planning on swapping the 7 1/4 rear end with a 8 3/4
now, I'm hurrying up a little bit because the 7 1/4 blew out before I was ready to replace it, and as a result, I don't have the park brake lines for the rear end

I intend to pull them from the 7 1/4 and install them on the 8 3/4 when I get the time

so...how do I disconnect the cable without cutting it?

the car is a 71 duster, that came with a 225
 
You can use the same cable for the 8 3/4, I did anyway.

Pull the brakes apart on the 7 1/4, disconnect the cables there. After you get the other diff in, you will need to loosen the cable adjustment under the front seat (IF there is one) and then you can connect the cable up to the 8 3/4.

Mine didn't want to fit because of the larger brakes, one side went right in, the other side had me scratching my head until I loosened that cable adjustment.

Yours might be different, I don't know, you will have to look.
 
Thanks bruce, I was hoping to leave pair brake cable on the 7 1/4 for now, just so I don't need to remove the wheels and drums yet
 
I think you could separate them at the equalizer. then pull the third member and transfer cables to the 8 3/4. As Bad Sport stated once installed check lengths and adjust as needed.

my .02

Never mind I was writing as you were lol
 
You can use a floor jack to pull the rear out if that's what your thinking. Just need a hand balancing it.

Or pull it apart, unhook the cables and just put the wheels back on without the hardware.
 
My main concern was getting the cable out of the backing plates
I fought that for a while when I was getting the rear end ready...is there a trick to that?
 
diymirage said:
My main concern was getting the cable out of the backing plates
I fought that for a while when I was getting the rear end ready...is there a trick to that?
Click to expand...

Absolutely, use a box end wrench (7/16 maybe) I can't remember, just find the one that will squeeze those tangs together, slide it over the end and push it on collapsing the tangs that hold it in, slide it out.
 
I pier them through, one tab atta time
The adjusting nut on the equalizer is usually seized. I run a re-threader up the exposed threads. Then, if penetrating fluid doesn't work, heat will.
 
I do along the lines as Bad Sport, only use a 3/8 drive deep well socket. Fits over the cable and compresses the tangs, works great.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I pier them through, one tab atta time
The adjusting nut on the equalizer is usually seized. I run a re-threader up the exposed threads. Then, if penetrating fluid doesn't work, heat will.
Click to expand...

this is what I ended up doing
(could not get a proper box wrench to fit)

I did try to mess with the equalizer a bit, but not a ton yet
I'm hoping to get the rear end dropped back in tomorrow


this is where she sits now

 
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