Where do I put this under dash temp gauge sensor?

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Top rad hose is flowing up and out of engine,through rad and down and out of rad into water pump. So what you would be getting is coolant as it leaves engine. A small amount flows as the bypass allows some around thermostat.
 
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Just by eyeballing it, doesn't look like i can replace the OEM temp sensor and this attachment while YES it comes with different size attachments they are all bigger than my OEM sensing unit. Is there a 1/2" NTP port somewhere on a slant 6 that Im not seeing?

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Seems to me that on the passenger side of the block are a couple block drains. They look like your sensor might screw right in there. I could be wrong, but when I got my ‘66 Dart I removed an aftermarket temp gauge setup and I took something out of the block drain. The ole memory ain’t what it use to be.
Jerry in Denver
 
Seems to me that on the passenger side of the block are a couple block drains. They look like your sensor might screw right in there. I could be wrong, but when I got my ‘66 Dart I removed an aftermarket temp gauge setup and I took something out of the block drain. The ole memory ain’t what it use to be.
Jerry in Denver
The block drain would be a 1/2" NPT somewhere under the spark plugs?
 
The block drain would be a 1/2" NPT somewhere under the spark plugs?
Yes, I think there are two of them. They are in the block, not the head. Hopefully you aren’t working with an aluminum block. Don’t know those at all. Those block drain plugs are a bugger to remove—usually. Good luck with it. I hope the pipe thread is the right one for the sender bulb.
Jerry
 
Yes, I think there are two of them. They are in the block, not the head. Hopefully you aren’t working with an aluminum block. Don’t know those at all. Those block drain plugs are a bugger to remove—usually. Good luck with it. I hope the pipe thread is the right one for the sender bulb.
Jerry
Oh I'm working with the original steel Slant 6 block, thanks Ill take a look tomorrow.
 
One thing you should keep in mind with such locations as heater or top hose, is that the higher you put the sender, if you get a leak (and don't notice) the sender can be "high and dry" and delay a warning until it is too late. One thing Chev did "right" years ago is to start putting the senders in (V8) down in the side of the heads.

I'm not familiar enough with slants, but the spacer at the Tstat might work well

Years ago, GM had some Tstat housings with a tapping in the top of the housing
 
When we couldn't get any of the plugs out of the 318 intake, we drilled and tapped this:

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Got it from O'Reilly's if I remember correctly. For a 1973 Scamp 318. Grabbed the image off Google they're everywhere. Dorman 902-3012.
 
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Probably. I almost left it at the parts store because it didn't look factory. Glad I didn't! Don't know what the Dorman engineer was thinking, but thanks pal.
 
Oh yeah, 3/8 npt tap and 9/16 drill bit. 9/16 is a little small but it's aluminum. And I don't have a 37/64. Lol
 
Plastic ...hmmm.

Ford thought it was a good idea to make plastic thermostat housings... of course after heat cycling the thermostat would stick
 
The guys ate slantsix.org have suggested before drilling and taping the thermostat housing, A steel one can be had at Rock auto for cheap, I like it better as the aluminum ones tend to corrode and get a pin hole OR maybe a new one will come with a pin hole!! Yes the later slant you can gut add the fitting for the sender right n the hd.,
 
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